Innovative wide band (LC 1) blinking 7.4 constantly

[JDUB348]

So today a friend of mine helped me wire up my innovative LC 1 wide band. He was the one who wired it up, and after doing so confirmed all the wiring was correct by testing each wire with a meter. Everything was good there. Only issue is the gauge itself is constantly blinking 7.4 and wont budge.

I got reading and saw that if these o2 sensors are exposed to exhaust gases without power it will damage the sensor? I did have the o2 sensor in the car for a fair amount of time during my car's build. I also drove the car quite a few times without power to the sensor.

Could this be the answer to why the gauge wont read any thing but 7.4?

 

[Blown_By_You]

That would imply the sensor is sending 0 or 1 volt, cant remember. I think its fair to say the sensor is dead

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

 

[cj428mach]

Post what you find out. I bought a low mileage LC1 from a guy and after wiring it up it just flashes 7.4 for a long time then it'll flash 21.XX then back to 7.4. It constantly goes back and forth and from time to time might land on 15.XX for a second. It doesn't matter if its in the exhaust stream or outside the exhaust stream. I wondered if the sensor is dead.

 

[c6zhombre]

Check your instructions on the gauge....for example, I've done a couple speedhut gauge installs with an lc1 and the speedhut gauge had to be calibrated for use with an lc1. You would hold the function button on the gauge face for several seconds and it would sweep to 3 different locations indicating compatibility with a particular brand of wideband. In this case, you had to get the speedhut needle to 10.0 on the face which selected "innovate" as the wideband. 2 other common brand wide bands were at 12.0 and 18.0

Other tips for trouble shooting is make sure you have the lc1 led light and calibration button (for free air and heater cal) wired up. When the bung sensor is working correctly and heated up....the led should stay on solid. If it is flashing in a sequence type fashion....ie like quick consecutive flashes...that is telling you an error code. Count the flashes and refer to the lc1 manual for the sequence code error description.

 

[c6zhombre]

Also one more thing to check....the default for the wires out of the lc1 is yellow ana1 is narrowband and brown ana2 is wideband (0-5v). If you have the wires backwards to the device you want....you will need to run the lm programmer software to change the default for the analog settings. You'll need your laptop, a serial to db9/usb connection cable, and access to the serial in and out jacks from the lc1. Make sure the in is plugged with the terminator plug. Connect your laptop to the out and run lm programmer. Make the changes to the analog config as necessary or just view it to verify its what you want.

 

[SVT_Troy]

If it always blinks 7.4 you don't have one of the wires connected. I had that happen, I forget which wire. It is the signal wire, I think it's the brown one but not sure

 

[93stang5.0]

Anyone have issues with this wide band being to bright at night? I know you can wire it to reduce the brightness. If anyone has a pic at night would be great.

 

[SVT_Troy]

It is too bright and I have hooked up the appropriate wire ( I think it's the yellow but not sure) to the dimming wire an it didn't work. It's sill bright. I think I'm going to get rid of it and go back to an AEM wideband

 

[JDUB348]

I'm wanting to bet its the sensor. First page of their install directions state:

"When installed in the exhaust, the oxygen sensor MUST be
connected and operating with the LC-1 whenever the car is running.
An un-powered oxygen sensor will be quickly damaged when
exposed to hot exhaust gases"

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/support/manual/LC-1_Manual.pdf

 

[JDUB348]

Went down to orileys and bought a replacement sensor. Will put it in later and see if it fixes the problem

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

 

[Ukfox89]

Mine did the same thing when the connector between te gauge and module wasn't clicking together properly and you loose power to the sensor while running. It's because te sensor is being reset while running. If you recalibrate the sensor and then start the car up it should read correctly. My connector was really hard to get to click together. Mine did the exact same thing. And you have to be really careful on your power supply to the sensor and the dimming feature has to be from the back of the head light not any switched head light wire cause of interference.

 

[cj428mach]

What was the application for the sensor. I think its an audi or vw but what model car to tell the monkeys behind the the counter?

 

[JDUB348]

I got a part number off svtp using a Google search.. I'll let u guys know what I find out
Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

 

[Mattio]

If you have the led wired up, count the number of blinks... if its blinking 8 times before stopping, the sensor is bad. You might just need to do a calibration, again read the directions.

 

[01Jes]

It is too bright and I have hooked up the appropriate wire ( I think it's the yellow but not sure) to the dimming wire an it didn't work. It's sill bright. I think I'm going to get rid of it and go back to an AEM wideband

Another wideband to consider IMO is Autometer. Not knocking down the LC-1 but looks like a pita with all those extra components. More so if you wanna log. My digital autometer has power, ground, and analog -blue/blk, analog +blue to datalog. No free air recal or extra module. It also has the automatic dim sensor built in. It uses the Bosch sensor and has a built in module within the gauge.
Don't hit me c6zhombre lol :beer:

Good luck op

 

[c6zhombre]

Don't hit me c6zhombre lol :beer:

Lol!

No prob, Jes. The lc1s are finicky as hell....but work pretty good once you get it functioning. Joe's is possessed! :burn:

 

[JDUB348]

Problem ended up being my buddy didn't connect the white wire off the innovative gauge to the brown wire on the wide band cord. Works flawlessly now :beer: