Installing a BMR k-member (and Kooks full lengths) this weekend...

[Dave_6]

Going to follow this thread- http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?982106-BMR-K-Member-install-Lots-of-pics

Anything else I should know? That how-to doesn't make it seem too bad but I'm sure I will have my fair share of tool throwing moments.

 

[BMR Tech]

It's not bad.

I'm here if you need anything.

Good luck!

 

[Dave_6]

Thanks! I imagine the worst part is going to be getting the factory nuts and studs off the headers, even with only ~13K miles on them.

 

[Bullitt 3309]

A set of these: http://www.harborfreight.com/5-pc-metric-flex-head-combination-ratcheting-wrench-set-60592.html and soak the header nuts with PB blaster will make life better...

 

[SCalla1384]

Just do the double nut method to pull out the studs. It's very simple. The install isn't bad at all. Imo the worst part is getting the ground strap off the passenger side motor mount.

Use Kooks supplied bolts, they won't clear the factory studs. I think I kept like 2 on each side just to hold the Gaskets in place.

Not a bad idea to replace the manifold Gaskets either

 

[Tuffnuts23]

I did this exact install a few months ago. My car only had maybe 500 miles on it and I still ended up pulling out a few header studs while loosening the nuts. It's not too bad. I will say to be careful if using an impact to tighten everything down before torquing. I snapped the head off the rear most driver side K member bolt. An extra set of hands would be nice too.

 

[SCalla1384]

Actually, yeah I did the k member at the same time too. Idk why, if it was me or what but the EPAS rack bolts were really hard to get off. Impact gun wouldn't work, torque multiplyer (x4) no luck. Had to heat them up a lot, then a breaker bar with a cheater bar. Finally got it. Snapped one of the nuts in half lol.

 

[Dave_6]

I'll have my friend helping me and have plenty of tools, ratcheting wrenches included, but they aren't the flex head type. I'm hoping having the entire front suspension out of the way will help in having so much more room. I think that how-to mentions how tight the rack bolts are so I'll keep that in mind before losing my patience, lol. The only impact I have is an electric one that I will use only to spin a bolt in faster, then use the torque wrench.

I was NOT going to use the gaskets that Kooks supplied; think I can reuse my factory gaskets? Bad thing is I didn't think to get some new Ford ones and I doubt any of the dealers here will have any in stock. Damn it...

 

[SCalla1384]

I wouldn't use Kooks gaskets. But yea, I would buy new Gaskets. Would suck if it leaked

 

[Jabooh1]

Sub'd for when I do this.

 

[Dave_6]

I wouldn't use Kooks gaskets. But yea, I would buy new Gaskets. Would suck if it leaked

I will be calling first thing tomorrow morning to see if any of the dealers have a pair. Otherwise, I won't be doing the install this weekend.

 

[SCalla1384]

Yeah here's the part number

BR3Z-9448-A

it's 1 per order. Not both. I'm sure 1 around has them. Good luck buddy

 

[Dave_6]

Thanks man. I looked online a few mins ago and it looks like the dealer I got the car from may have a pair.

 

[evanjp]

I'm sorry if this is ignorant but I really am not sure. When you drop the k member, you are dropping the front suspension? What actually are you removing when you drop the k member? And is it ideal to drop the k member of you're installing longtubes or can you just jack the motor up a bit to do it just as well?

 

[SCalla1384]

Well you need to pretty much unbolt everything on the front. Support the motor from either the top, or a jack with on the bellhousing. I did both to be safe. Then take off the wheels, brakes, tie rods, the steering shaft, take out th3 EPAS rack while its on there, and I think thats it. Then you can take off the motor mount bolts, and start unbolting the K member. Think it's 8 bolts. And it'll basically just drop out.

You don't have to take the k member out. But imo, it'll make life much easier. I was also doing a Tubular K member at the time of putting my Kooks headers on. But even if I wasnt, I would. Can probably have the k member out in an hour or so. Worst part honestly is putting the car on jack stands lol

 

[evanjp]

LOL. I think it's a pain in the ass putting the car on 4 stands too. I'm an idiot and bought kooks long tubes with catted x a year ago and recently sold them because I didn't want to mess with the install. Regretting that right about now. Actually I regretted it when I got in my car to drive away from selling them to the guy. Well, in the process of giving them to him I regretted it. You get the picture.

I'm keeping my eyes out for deals on long tubes but I want a catted h pipe instead of an x. Thanks for the info man very helpful and interesting.

 

[SCalla1384]

Lol! The install is well worth it imo. The sound is killer.

I agree though, one thing I absolutely hate to do, is get the car up on 4 jack stands. Hate every second of it

 

[Dave_6]

I was actually planning on only putting the front on stands and leaving the rear on the ground (I hate putting it on 4 stands too). Seems like that would still give me plenty of room since I'm only working on the front.

 

[burnin4]

good luck with the install! Make sure you get a front end alignment after the install. I have kooks longtubes and bmr k-member/a-arms/chassis brace/radiator support/everything else. You're gonna be happy with the finished result. I gained .1-.2 with all of my k-member/parts, and 1-2mph, consistently, plus the car drives much more crisp, love it.

 

[BMR Tech]

Yes