Installing a built Aluminum block, Lunati cams, 3.6 LC KB and more.
- Thread starter Quade
- Start date
Thanks Dave and yessir, dual 465's. Figured while I was in there, better go with the big stuff lol.
Thank ya JD. Yea brother, you won't have a problem at all. It kinda had me a little buffalo'ed before I started it, but it actually a pretty easy job. Just time consuming the first time.
Thanks Rob, I'll be watching for your fuel system soon. You got everything else to be able to use it. Looking really fwd to next Wednesday:rolling:.
Thanks much Doc. Looks like your setup is working really well!:beer:
OK, once I figured out the regulator situation, I concentrated on the rails, injectors and lines. Basically, putting the top of the motor back together around the new stuff.
ID 2000's!
Here is the ID's beside a stock injector. After seeing this, I wasn't worried about Blower/Rail clearance anymore. Of course, the O-ring's are covered in Pet.
If you use this combo, you'll want to make 4, 1/8" spacers for the rails to set flat and the injectors to be vertical. 2, 1/16" stainless steel washers under the mounting point worked perfect.
When you go return style, you'll want to do a Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Delete. The kit came with a supplied O-ring and the mount for the FRPS. I just copied the base of the Mount and made a blank-out plate.
Inspected my rotors while the KB was off. Still looked like new after 20k miles!
Plenty of clearance under there.
In this pic the rails and blower is installed. Take a look at the location of the pressure gauge, real close to the SC Bypass Valve! When I went to install the Bypass valve, It would have fit, but the side of the gauge was touching the rubber sleeve.......No-Go! The instructions say to put the gauge in one of the two hole and plug the other, well, not with the 3.6 KB anyway. The Whipple and TVS guys MAY be able to get away with it, I don't know. I wanted the gauge on that side due to it being the farthest point from the Regulator...........
Here is where I ended up putting it. My blank-out plate worked perfect.
Next was the lines from the Regulator to the rails. I install the AN fittings first before I get a measurement and go from base to base of the fittings. Before you put the AN fittings in the line, DON'T forget the clamps lol. I just followed the most natural lines I could while not forgetting the Intake.
This is how they wound up being run under the Intake, around the front of the valve cover and the passenger side was hid snugly in the coolant lines.
When you are installing any AN type fittings, remember to use counter torque on these things. They will break when torque is applied if you don't.
Finished with the top and front. Now it's time to work on the supply line, filter and install the fuel hat. Looks like I'll be saving that part for tomorrow night. :sleeping::sleeping:
ID 2000's!
Here is the ID's beside a stock injector. After seeing this, I wasn't worried about Blower/Rail clearance anymore. Of course, the O-ring's are covered in Pet.
If you use this combo, you'll want to make 4, 1/8" spacers for the rails to set flat and the injectors to be vertical. 2, 1/16" stainless steel washers under the mounting point worked perfect.
When you go return style, you'll want to do a Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Delete. The kit came with a supplied O-ring and the mount for the FRPS. I just copied the base of the Mount and made a blank-out plate.
Inspected my rotors while the KB was off. Still looked like new after 20k miles!
Plenty of clearance under there.
In this pic the rails and blower is installed. Take a look at the location of the pressure gauge, real close to the SC Bypass Valve! When I went to install the Bypass valve, It would have fit, but the side of the gauge was touching the rubber sleeve.......No-Go! The instructions say to put the gauge in one of the two hole and plug the other, well, not with the 3.6 KB anyway. The Whipple and TVS guys MAY be able to get away with it, I don't know. I wanted the gauge on that side due to it being the farthest point from the Regulator...........
Here is where I ended up putting it. My blank-out plate worked perfect.
Next was the lines from the Regulator to the rails. I install the AN fittings first before I get a measurement and go from base to base of the fittings. Before you put the AN fittings in the line, DON'T forget the clamps lol. I just followed the most natural lines I could while not forgetting the Intake.
This is how they wound up being run under the Intake, around the front of the valve cover and the passenger side was hid snugly in the coolant lines.
When you are installing any AN type fittings, remember to use counter torque on these things. They will break when torque is applied if you don't.
Finished with the top and front. Now it's time to work on the supply line, filter and install the fuel hat. Looks like I'll be saving that part for tomorrow night. :sleeping::sleeping:
Looks like you're making some great progress, good work sir! I'll be looking forward to seeing what it puts down!
Last edited:
I have those lines from the original LP/Fore Triple hat set up, I get no such smell in the car, barely any outside of it as well. :beer:
Thanks Men! I'm Jones'en for Wednesday to get here. I'm sure you'll be getting texts, Jason lol.
Thanks man, I'll take it under advisement. I've had the pumps running now for a total of about an hour over the last 2 day and no smell yet......but i'm sure the tale will be told once it starts getting tracked and daily driven.:beer:
I've already gotten the car back together and leak checked so I'll be trying to start it tomorrow. Lee has given me a couple different start up tunes to try out just so I can load it up and get it to him safely.
OK, back to the install........
The stock fuel hat. FIRST thing, clean that thing off! Get the fuel line removed and get a hammer and brass punch to knock the green ring off.
Here is the 2010 Level in the new Hat. If you have a 07-09, you'll need the sender and it's an option for this kit. It snaps right into place.
Here is the new Hat installed in the tank. The OEM hat comes out fairly easy, BUUUUUT, the Division X WILL NOT go in that tank unless you do a cut in the front of the lip on the seat pan and bend up the metal about 3/4" around the front. You could do it if you dropped the tank out but the cut and bend didn't bother me to bad so I took that route. When the Hat-body seal is reinstalled, you can't see it anyway. It's really tight in there and the Hose routing has to be pretty much like this. I ended up using this fitting that was suppose to be for the return on the regulator back here. I ended up ordering a 90* fitting for the Regulator.
These are the only two wires that need to be spliced at the Hat and they are for the Fuel Level Sender. Non of the wire colors in the instructions matched the color of wires in the OEM harness so I broke the meter out and tested the only two small, Signal type wires in the plug wires. I Hooked the only one of the two wires that rang to ground to the ground wire on the hat and the other to the signal wire. Worked perfect.
This is the harness after it's spliced and taped up.
These are the lines coming down from the tank and moving fwd to the Regulator. All the way up the OEM fuel line mounts, I cut and trimmed the original line mount out and both the supply and return lines tucked up inside perfectly. The OEM guard fits back on just like it's intended to if you go this route.
Once I got the system hooked up and the intake installed, I, slowly, tried to shut the hood. Well, if you take a look at the Regulator bracket, the upper corner has been trimmed from the last pic of it. It was hitting a hood brace and that little corner being removed fixed the problem.
And, here she is, all finished up. I used some of the left over -8 hose to make a better line setup for the oil separator. After you run the new rail-regulator line along the front of the valve cover, the line on the JLT setup doesn't have the necessary flex or length to put it where it needs to be. Gonna start her tomorrow and get it tuned on Wednesday. Ill report back then. If any of y'all are gonna do this yourself, I'll be glad to post pics of any of it. I have a ton more pics than what's been posted.
Oh yea, a little experiment that I'm doing. This next pic is of a piece of shrink rap that has been shrunk, a piece that hasn't been shrunk and an environmental splice that has been heat shrunk on only one side amerced in E85. I really don't think the Heat shrink does well in Ethanol and I'll keep everyone posted on this too.
OK, back to the install........
The stock fuel hat. FIRST thing, clean that thing off! Get the fuel line removed and get a hammer and brass punch to knock the green ring off.
Here is the 2010 Level in the new Hat. If you have a 07-09, you'll need the sender and it's an option for this kit. It snaps right into place.
Here is the new Hat installed in the tank. The OEM hat comes out fairly easy, BUUUUUT, the Division X WILL NOT go in that tank unless you do a cut in the front of the lip on the seat pan and bend up the metal about 3/4" around the front. You could do it if you dropped the tank out but the cut and bend didn't bother me to bad so I took that route. When the Hat-body seal is reinstalled, you can't see it anyway. It's really tight in there and the Hose routing has to be pretty much like this. I ended up using this fitting that was suppose to be for the return on the regulator back here. I ended up ordering a 90* fitting for the Regulator.
These are the only two wires that need to be spliced at the Hat and they are for the Fuel Level Sender. Non of the wire colors in the instructions matched the color of wires in the OEM harness so I broke the meter out and tested the only two small, Signal type wires in the plug wires. I Hooked the only one of the two wires that rang to ground to the ground wire on the hat and the other to the signal wire. Worked perfect.
This is the harness after it's spliced and taped up.
These are the lines coming down from the tank and moving fwd to the Regulator. All the way up the OEM fuel line mounts, I cut and trimmed the original line mount out and both the supply and return lines tucked up inside perfectly. The OEM guard fits back on just like it's intended to if you go this route.
Once I got the system hooked up and the intake installed, I, slowly, tried to shut the hood. Well, if you take a look at the Regulator bracket, the upper corner has been trimmed from the last pic of it. It was hitting a hood brace and that little corner being removed fixed the problem.
And, here she is, all finished up. I used some of the left over -8 hose to make a better line setup for the oil separator. After you run the new rail-regulator line along the front of the valve cover, the line on the JLT setup doesn't have the necessary flex or length to put it where it needs to be. Gonna start her tomorrow and get it tuned on Wednesday. Ill report back then. If any of y'all are gonna do this yourself, I'll be glad to post pics of any of it. I have a ton more pics than what's been posted.
Oh yea, a little experiment that I'm doing. This next pic is of a piece of shrink rap that has been shrunk, a piece that hasn't been shrunk and an environmental splice that has been heat shrunk on only one side amerced in E85. I really don't think the Heat shrink does well in Ethanol and I'll keep everyone posted on this too.
Awesome Quade, I really love that toaster sitting on top of the motor.
Hay Quade,I am going to be installing the same exact kit let me know if you smell fuel in the cabin ,Iam also going with the 4.2 at the same time.Your Posts And info are very helpfull !
Last edited:
Thanks man, the Kenne Bell's are a work of art for sure.
Sounds awesome Don! Going straight to the big dog I see! I've been mulling that over in my head for a while now so it will be good to see what you get results wise. Keep us posted!
Got my time on the rollers Wednesday before last and have been really busy since. Still haven't made it to the track due to the Kentucky weather and it's not looking good for this weekend either:fm: Here is the Dyno results.
22 lbs, 22*, E85.
This is the same combo on MS109.
This is the combo that has produced my best ET and Trap Speed last year. Hopefully, these # will get better this Fall also.
Quades 9.59 gt500 - YouTube
I've got about 500 miles on the new setup and it is really fun to drive. There is NO smell of fuel and the car, pumps and everything else sounds and seems the same. So far, so good and I'll report back when I get some track times and temps. I will say there was 24* difference in IAT2's at the end of the 2 dyno run sheets above. Those ID2000's are like high pressure water hoses spraying down the heads lol.
How much more boost can/will you run with the 3.6?
Sent from my iPhone5 using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my iPhone5 using Tapatalk 2
Hay Jammye,#'s look Great maybe we can talk 5.0 to do a shootout with both runner ups,KOTS? Bradenton ?? Your turn to come south.lol
Thank ya sir and Lee really knows how pull the numbers out of them the right way. The Intake was a challenge but he worked it out to where the cars drivability is better now than anytime before. Blankenship FTW!
When the 3" pulley is on, it will make 28.5 psi. I have worked on my heads a little, fairly stout cams with my specs and I have a pretty good flowing exhaust so the pressure numbers would probably be a little different for everyone.
Looks Great! Yeah...I feel you on the KY weatherMy plans were flooded today.
Thanks Doc, yea, I kinda felt like Noah when I saw the sun yesterday for the first time in 6 days LOL. Going to Clay City Friday night and London Saturday evening for some seat time.....FINALLY! WooHoo!
Thank ysa sir!:beer:
That sounds Awesome Don and I'd Love to come down to Bradenton this Spring! If I'm home, I'll do all I can to be there.
Speaking of being home, I'm leaving for Petawawa Canada in about 10 days for 6 months. So much for seat time before NMRA at Bowling Green, but, I do see there is a couple tracks that are somewhat close to the Petawawa/Pembrooke area, so, all you Canadian Brothers that see this, give me an idea of the feasibility of bringing my car with me.
Users who are viewing this thread
