My rear-end broke and according to the Ford dealership, the axels are broken and has also messed my gears up. I need a shopping list of everything that I need to have it fixed better than stock. Can anyone help me?
Irs/rearend rebuild
- Thread starter snakedoctor
- Start date
How much money do you want to spend? You can easily shove 4-5k into rebuilding a IRS with some level 5 halfshafts, a torsen diff and buying everything that FTBR has to offer. What are you doing with the car? Drag strip? Open track? What are you current power levels?
I find it hard to believe that BOTH axles are broken and the gears are all messed up. I would ask the dealer to send you pictures. The cheapest route to getting it back on the road might be getting a whole used IRS if the dealer is telling the truth.
The car is pretty much stock, not even pullied. I use it mainly for cruising. I may upgrade the supercharger one day or take it to the strip once or twice a year, but nothing major.
In that case I would not worry about upgrading the shafts or diff. Installing the FTBR kit and ford racing diff cover will go a long way to preventing any issues in the future.
How did that stuff break then if youre stock?
Sounds like another scam job by the Ford dealership
Imo easiest/best way if your IRS is junk is to buy a used one. You can get a used IRS for like $1,000. Thats a BIG IF IF ALL the stuff you mentioned above is truly broke.
If you are just stock or even pullied a stock IRS (diff,shafts) are more than acceptable no need to upgrade stuff unless you plan on pushing a lot more hp (600+)
Only thing worth upgrading is the bushings
But again it seems like the dealership is throwing you a bone.
^this! Its hard to believe that all that stuff is broke on a cruising cobra that gets taken to strip 1 or 2 times a year. I second that on asking for pics of said carnage.
im betting you just popped the cover like a stock IRS will do with no brace/cover...
get pics and re address. or post them here.
no way you broke 2 axles.
get pics and re address. or post them here.
no way you broke 2 axles.
I agree with every one, get pictures. please post them.
If you did brake both half shafts, and the center section WOW. Good new. There is a COMPLETE IRS in Austin TX, for sale right now.
If you did brake both half shafts, and the center section WOW. Good new. There is a COMPLETE IRS in Austin TX, for sale right now.
I HIGHLY recommend 10thredvert. He built mine with billet bearing caps, Detroit true track, solid crush sleeve, and proper gear depth for my uses. Shipping from Fl to Ill was only $75 and I only wound up paying 1 way as I found a Mark VIII rear near him which he picked up, checked over, tested and ultimately used for the build. This made the project a true plug and play. If you can't find him email me [email protected] and I'll give you his email addy. or phone number.
BTW don't use FRPP gears as they are made by motive and chip/break easily. I stuck with OE ratio and used the basic ford gear from the factory.
BTW don't use FRPP gears as they are made by motive and chip/break easily. I stuck with OE ratio and used the basic ford gear from the factory.
I didn't let that dealer touch it. When he told me I broke the axle, I asked him "do you mean the half-shafts?" He said no axels, half-shafts are what are in front wheeled drives. So I bought a raptor (not from them) and towed the car home. I was cruising to Vegas and right outside Winslow, AZ the whole back end started vibrating violently. My seal had been leaking and I put off fixing it-my stupidity.
I had just had a new high performance clutch put in a month earlier by Manny in Lewisville……I don't know if that had anything to do with it.
Yup....that's what I did & what I spent!! Would have been A lot cheaper to go solid axel,but I road corse also!
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Yup....that's what I did & what I spent!! Would have been A lot cheaper to go solid axel,but I road corse also!
What Full tilt boogies bushing kit are y'all referring too? the $800 one? Which ford racing cover are y'all using with this because there are two listed
I went with the 5001 kit that includes the rear diff lowering mount(FT1401). This kit requires the 1350M cover that is milled to fit the bushing in the kit.
What does a FTBR kit have to do with interior damage to the housing? Isn't that what you're looking to repair?
ok, i just took my car to another ford dealership. This is what they said.
1.) rear diff leak caused pinion bearing to seize up and shoot through the housing
2.) the whole rearend is fried
3.) Ford discontinued the housing, so I either have to go with a used Ford(if they can find one) or aftermarket new
Does this sound possible, it definitely sounds expensive!
1.) rear diff leak caused pinion bearing to seize up and shoot through the housing
2.) the whole rearend is fried
3.) Ford discontinued the housing, so I either have to go with a used Ford(if they can find one) or aftermarket new
Does this sound possible, it definitely sounds expensive!
I was gonna have the FTBR kit done while the IRS was out
oh it's gonna be expensive, all right!
as far as an actual 8.8 irs differential housing, I have a feeling a used one is going to be your only option. I doubt if there are any aftermarket solutions out there.
best of luck with it! if you can try to do it yourself or have a friend fix this I would recommend it.
as far as an actual 8.8 irs differential housing, I have a feeling a used one is going to be your only option. I doubt if there are any aftermarket solutions out there.
best of luck with it! if you can try to do it yourself or have a friend fix this I would recommend it.
I got my current housing from a '97 Lincoln Mark VIII for $50. The builder I mentioned above picked it up for me, tested, and cleaned before using. Craigslist is your friend for the housings, you'll just have to replace the guts. OE Ford gears, not FRPP as they are Motive brand and known to chip, OE bearings, delete the crush sleeve, reuse your bearing caps if possible, or use the Mark VIII if applicable and I believe they are but double check. Or you can get a Cobra full unit ready to go, or Cobra housing but they're the same as the Mark VIII but more expensive.
Even if you don't care about upping the strength I HIGHLY suggest a gear type mechanical differential such as a Detroit True Trac which I got on Amazon in the $300 range, or Torsen T2 (if not drag racing), or very spendy Wavetrac to replace the OE disc type trac-lock that needs rebuilds. Get a FRPP or LPW cover, no braces. Do NOT reuse the oe cover. You can use the bolts they come with or studs for greater strength.
If you want more fortification use Mark Williams billet bearing caps w/their bolts, or studs as hardware. Modification is needed to the IRS housing to do so and is why I recommended the builder above. He's done them before and did mine which is spot on. He'll set up your gears for the type of driving you do as well. Also shipping wasn't that bad at $75 from Florida to OH.
Even if you don't care about upping the strength I HIGHLY suggest a gear type mechanical differential such as a Detroit True Trac which I got on Amazon in the $300 range, or Torsen T2 (if not drag racing), or very spendy Wavetrac to replace the OE disc type trac-lock that needs rebuilds. Get a FRPP or LPW cover, no braces. Do NOT reuse the oe cover. You can use the bolts they come with or studs for greater strength.
If you want more fortification use Mark Williams billet bearing caps w/their bolts, or studs as hardware. Modification is needed to the IRS housing to do so and is why I recommended the builder above. He's done them before and did mine which is spot on. He'll set up your gears for the type of driving you do as well. Also shipping wasn't that bad at $75 from Florida to OH.
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