IRS Rebuild Has Begun - 1st Question

[SILVER_SVT_GT]

Went out and got started on the tear down today. Got out there around 2pm. Thought I'd start by busting out the pressure washer and blast off 100k miles of road grime. Well, that turned into an hour of me pulling a rope, turning wrenches, and cussing like all hell. But, mission accomplished.

Didn't want to break my back working bent over on a floor so I hillbillied up a porch swing to get it at waist level. I know it's redneck, but actually worked great. Having the son there to help hold from swinging was helpful as well. Not to mention an air ratchet to speed things up.

Got pretty much everything disassembled. Hit all nuts with PB Blaster after washing and everything unbolted relatively easy. Don't have the 36mm socket for the outer axle nuts. Gonna borrow one from work tonight.

So, my first question.

These are the upper control arm bushings. Not for sure how these are in there. Taking to work tonight where we have an assortment of hydraulic press machines. BUT!!! Is that how they are supposed to come out? My plan is/was to use a long steel bar to insert through one end and slide to other bushing. Using a socket or a slightly smaller diameter steel slug, press from inside out.

Am I correct? Or am I gonna break it in pieces? Thought I'd ask first before I do anything.

Thanks

 

[03SonicVert]

What kit or parts are you installing?

Try here for guidelines:
http://www.fulltiltboogieracing.com/installation.htm

SV

 

[SILVER_SVT_GT]

Bushing kit is Prothane. Replacing everything. Thanks for the link.

 

[Jefe]

Confused how your ABS lines are still on the IRS. Where did you unhook them from?

Did you rent the bushing removal tools? Series of cups, caps and all thread. The smaller flange is the same size as the opening so it pushes through. Heat them up good and then use air/impact to get them out. Thats the easiest way, the way you described will be tougher unless you can heat them up and secure those arms properly in your press. Watch this:

[youtube_browser]lGpj3FBzH_Q[/youtube_browser]

Be sure to clean them thoroughly before installing the new bushings

Nice rig, youre gonna find you'll need some leverage on certain parts so hopefully its easy to lower

Start labeling nuts/bolts! Youre gonna have a bunch laying around unless you only tackle one thing at a time

Make sure you double check the length of those new bushing crush sleeves. Some of them are slightly longer than others so match them up before installing with the 75/25 goop

 

[SILVER_SVT_GT]

Confused how your ABS lines are still on the IRS. Where did you unhook them from?

Did you rent the bushing removal tools? Series of cups, caps and all thread. The smaller flange is the same size as the opening so it pushes through. Heat them up good and then use air/impact to get them out. Thats the easiest way, the way you described will be tougher unless you can heat them up and secure those arms properly in your press. Watch this:


Be sure to clean them thoroughly before installing the new bushings

Nice rig, youre gonna find you'll need some leverage on certain parts so hopefully its easy to lower

Start labeling nuts/bolts! Youre gonna have a bunch laying around unless you only tackle one thing at a time

Make sure you double check the length of those new bushing crush sleeves. Some of them are slightly longer than others so match them up before installing with the 75/25 goop

Bought bushing removal tool for sub frame bushings. Them are out. There are disconnects for the ABS sensors under the back seat. In exactly the same spot between 03 Cobra/03 GT. My solid axle ABS sensors went with the axle. I got his. No difference. Plugged right in. Seat comes out in ten seconds.

Upper arms done. worked like a charm.

Them outer washers come off. Clamp on to the small one with a large pair of vise grips and pry down like hell. With that one out, twist out the other side and take out the crush sleeve. Mine came out together. This opens up the bushing enough to insert a 12" long 3/4" bar. I used a 2" long piece of thick wall tubing with an ID of 1.75" for bushing to be pressed into. Standing arm on end, I set a slightly smaller washer on the rubber and slid the bar through top bushing, down to other bushing, onto washer. I used a big, powered hydraulic press. Just hit the button. Out in 2 seconds. Didn't know I if I was supposed to also remove outer bushing sleeve. Good thing I left them. Doing lowers tonight.

Everything cleaned with heated parts washer at work. Diff, diff case, lower arms, and rear cover already loaded in car for tonight.

Had son helping to hold when needed. Actually worked great.

Will mic the crush sleeves tonight. Thinking on just machining some out of 304 Stainless. I just so happen to know how to program and operate our HASS ST30ss CNC lathe with live tooling. Bad A$$ machine.

All nuts/bolts went right back in same spots. I find its the easiest way when possible. I'm organized...:-D

 

[SILVER_SVT_GT]

Next Couple Question and a Couple Major Observations

Drivers side diff bearing race.

What do you think might of caused this? Knew it wasn't right and there was something wrong in there.

I suspect my passenger wheel bearing will look even worse. When rolling hub, you can hear major metal on metal with some crunching sounds. Drivers side is whisper quiet.

How do the hubs come off? Gonna buy some new wheel bearings/seals. Could someone tell me what I have to buy? Is it a hub bearing AND wheel bearings? Notice a big snap ring clip on back of knuckle. Take this off and press out hub, then bearing? Press in new bearing and then hub? Could it be that simple?

Got my butt kicked last night at work. The lower control arm bushings won't budge. Even with the "big" hydraulic press machine. Problem is, No matter the size of the plunger i used to try and press bushings out with, it would just roll the bushing down instead of pushing out. Even just using a 3/4" rod and trying to press out only the center crush sleeve. When it rolls onto the plunger, it creates massive outward pressure. Afraid it will break the cast aluminum. Got some major head scratching kicking hard right now. Could really use some advise on getting these out.

Any ideas? Thanks.

 

[Jefe]

Ya lowers are the toughest. Use a drill and go through them at least 10 times then heat them up and they'll press out. Use a hacksaw to cut lines into the stock bushing cups and mangle those out. It's a dirty job

Not sure on the damage or replacement pieces. Much wheel hop?

 

[SILVER_SVT_GT]

Alright, quick update.

LCA bushings out. Used my oxygen/acetylene torch and heated up ends. Used the MM subframe tool. Wasn't pretty, but it worked.

Ended up replacing both wheel bearings. Pressed those in last night along with LCA bushings.

Pilot bearings and seals in.

Inner and outer pinion races installed.

Now I am fighting the inner bearing races on the diff. My two jaw puller is a piece of crap. Tried throwing a little heat at it, but the puller kept slipping off. Gonna take to work tonight and see if they have a better puller. I get them off, I'm ready start some assembly.

Good site for all my torque specs? Tolerance on backlash is .008 to .012? But keep as close to .008 as possible? Rotational in/lbs torque with new bearings? And is that measurement taken including wheel bearing resistance as well? Or do I set that while on the bench?

I'd be getting more done faster, but they made Saturday mandatory 8 overtime and opened up Sunday for 8 voluntary as well. Double time. Can't pass that kinda cash up.

Thanks again.

 

[Jefe]

IRS TORQUE SPECS
 ABS bracket-to-lower arm = 17 ft-lbs
 ABS bolt-to-diff = 5 ft-lbs
 Brake banjo bolt = 30 ft-lbs
 Brake caliper anchor bolts = 76 ft-lbs
 Brake caliper bolt = 25 ft-lbs
 Brake line-to-rear brake caliper bolt = 30 ft-lbs
 Diff cover = 25 ft-lbs
 Diff pinion nose crossmember-to-diff = 52 ft-lbs
 Diff pinion nose crossmember-to-subframe = 184 ft-lbs
 Diff rear insulator-to-axle housing bolts = 76 ft-lbs
 Driveshaft to pinion flange = 83 ft-lbs (Blue Loctite)
 Hub nut = 250 ft-lbs
 Lower arm and bushing-to-subframe bolts = 184 ft-lbs
 Lower arm and bushing-to-knuckle nut = 85 ft-lbs
 Parking brake cable bracket-to-lower arm bushing bolt = 11 ft-lbs
 Rear brake disc dust sheild-to-knuckle bolts = 89 in-lbs
 Stabilizer bar bracket bolt = 41 ft-lbs
 Stabilizer bar link nuts = 35 ft-lbs
 Subframe-to-body bolts = 76 ft-lbs (14mm bolts = 131 ft-lbs; 9/16” bolt = 145 ft-lbs)
 Subframe-to-rear bracket bolts = 76 ft-lbs
 Subframe rear bracket-to-body bolts = 59 ft-lbs
 Shock-to-lower arm and bushing bolts = 98 ft-lbs
 Shock-to-body nuts = 30 ft-lbs
 Toe link-to-subframe nut = 35 ft-lbs
 Toe link-to-knuckle nut = 35 ft-lbs
 Upper arm and bushing-to-subframe nuts = 66 ft-lbs
 Upper arm bushing-to-knuckle nut = 66 ft-lbs
 Wheel lugs = 95 ft-lbs

 

[SILVER_SVT_GT]

IRS TORQUE SPECS... ... ...

Absolutely fabulous bro. Thank you.

Have read that you NEVER reuse the 36mm CV axle nuts and pinion nut. New pinion nut came with bearing kit. Having troubles finding axle nuts. Your generic parts store is a no go. AutoZone shows the picture of the nut, but they can't order it.

NAPA can't get original either, but they have a generic spindle/axle nut for a 4x4. Its 36mm with same thread pitch and size. However, its a crimp style nut. Photo below.

Can I use this nut? Like 10 bucks each. Bought two of them. Thoughts?

On a side note. Took diff carrier to the garage where I bought my last car. Couple mechanics having a smoke outside on break. One guy wearing a Ford hat. Perfect timing. SCORE!!! Didn't charge me anything. Threw the guy 20 bucks for helping and cause I liked his hat...lol

Outer races are off. Gonna try the "freeze the carrier, heat the bearing" method for installing. Could take to work and press them on in 10 seconds. Just dying to try it. Picked up a 5 dollar pinion bearing for setting pinion depth. Will ream it out tonight at work.

Getting closer...epper:

Thanks again guys.

 

[Jefe]

You check with Ford on the nut? Part # F0SZ--4B477-A. There's gotta be a stock one somewhere close. I wouldnt use those

 

[Rich'sTRsvt]

I wouldn't use that. I know that ford was the only place that had them, and I may be wrong, but I believe they are the same nuts that are on the front spindles.

 

[svtshadow]

Get that axle nut from ford. $10

 

[SVTORANGE]

Excellent information in here thanks

 

[SILVER_SVT_GT]

Well, went to my local Ford dealer.

55 of them axle nuts on back order. Guy comes back and says, "Hmmm, that's odd. Never seen that before. Normally it tells me when to expect or if some are in transit. Not telling me anything. No comments. Nothing."

I ordered 2 of them with no clue as to when I will receive.

So, I have two options:

1 - Reuse the old nuts until new ones come in.

2 - Use the crimp style aftermarket ones I bought from NAPA until new ones come in.

Either way, a set of nuts are going back on the car. What would be the better of the two?

 

[Jefe]

Definitely use the old ones. Red loctite and set them at 250. They may come loose but the new ones will probably be in before that happens.

They were used on several different cars. Lincoln Mark VIII. I would get back on the phone with your dealer and ask them which warehouse delivers their parts, then call that dealer. Also ask them about a Motorcraft Store called Parts Mart. Might be one near you.

OReilly has a Dorman reproduction:

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...xle+nut_1425035_-1&keyword=spindle!s!axle+nut

Got mine through Last Call Racing in CA. Had them in a couple days.

Bruce at FTBR has some im sure. Heres some that you would probably have sooner:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-OEM-F0SZ4B477A-Axle-Spindle-Nut-Axle-Nut-/161249328091

Another:

http://www.nospartsltd.com/product-p/f0sz4b477a.htm

 

[Mac99Snake]

Don't use the NAPA parts. I had to take apart an IRS with those type of nuts (yeah I said it, lol) and it took a HUGE impact wrench, vise and crowbar to get it loose. You can't get enough of the socket on the nut, given the depth/length.

 

[Rich'sTRsvt]

These and half shafts are really hard to get as of recent... Hopefully they haven't discontinued them. If you really need a new one you could see if Bruce at FTBR has any.

 

[SILVER_SVT_GT]

Ok, we happen to have an O'reily's here in town. Will check on them nuts tomorrow.

Got diff clutch pack in, spiders, etc.

Ring gear on.

Bearings on.

Cheap-o pinion bearing mocked up and on. Pinion in case. Old nut on snug.

Question: How tight does the diff need to sit in the case? Was gonna use factory shims as a reference or starting point to check gear contact and backlash. Not getting them in there without beating them in.

I don't have a case spreader. Didn't build one, nor am I buying. I've read that you can get them in with a little persuasion. But, how much persuasion? Which ultimately equals how tight it is (side to side).

There musta been some serious wear in the old set up. When disassembling, I was going to use a couple blocks of wood on the floor. Flip case over and lightly drop case on wood, popping out diff. When I flipped over, the diff, races, and shims just fell out. Was not tight in there at all. So, as you can guess, I have no reference as to how tight shims/diff needs to be.

I also read that if you are using a pinion crush washer, its like 15 in/lbs rotational torque. BUT!!! If you are using a pinion spacer and shims, you just torque to (think) 95 ft/lbs. Figure I'd throw it by you guys and see what you think. I have both.

I'm sorry guys. I know I'm a rookie. The end is in sight. Just want it done, done right, and my baby back on the road...:rolling:

Thanks again.

 

[Rich'sTRsvt]

In the ford service manual it says to slide in as many as you can fit on the ring gear side, and then fill the other side with as many as you can, and then get the backlash correct. Then after you get it right, add .006 inch of shim to each side for the final setup.