Just bought my first Terminator!

[jetmech]

First what are your realistic power goals?
Second the 2.9 is a straight bolt on versus the 3.4 which requires some mods in order to clear the hood.
Third if you plan on using the crusher inlet then you need to know that you will not be able to get your passenger side spark plugs without having to remove the blower.
4th and this is just my OPINION and not a matter of fact but the 3.4 is really meant to be put on a built motor instead of a stock one. I have the 2.9 and I blew my motor with that blower running close to 24lbs of boost on a stock motor. It just kept pulling and pulling even past redline where the boost never dropped. Here is a pic of the blower on my car when it was running.
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1-I don't care about a dyno number, what I care about is how it does at the track, I'd like to have a high 9 sec. streetable Terminator. Lofty goals yes but what's the point of a goal if it's easy! So if I had to guess on numbers it should take 7-800 RWHP.

2- I don't care what mods it needs, I can get a cowl fiberglass hood if I have to.

3- Is there anyway to remove the Crusher inlet from the blower? I'm sure its not one piece with the blower right?

4- How did your motor blow, aside from taking it to redline and past? Reasons for your motor to blow could have been the fuel you used, or tuned to the ragged edge, or a failed supporting part (injector,sensor, oil pump ect.) The point is, it might have blown regardless of which blower was on there. Also, I thought I read that Terminators have Kellog forged cranks, forged rods, and 8.5:1 forged pistons, that's built pretty damn good!

 

[jetmech]

Congratulations on getting your '03 Cobra. You mentioned in your first post that you have suspension mods planned. That includes lowering your Cobra, right? I hope so because a lowered stance makes SO much difference in the looks department. Best of luck with your car.

Thanks CobraBob, yes I'm looking into H&R race springs

 

[SilverCobra7]

Thanks CobraBob, yes I'm looking into H&R race springs

A lowered Cobra definitely looks & handles better... Mine has the H&R Race Springs:thumbsup:

 

[NateTermi]

Congrats man, love the color.

 

[f2hatch]

Congrats on the new cobra. Looks clean.

 

[Svt-Rich]

Very nice car, I love the SB Cobras. Good luck with it.

 

[mineral154]

congrats

 

[mach1033]

1-I don't care about a dyno number, what I care about is how it does at the track, I'd like to have a high 9 sec. streetable Terminator. Lofty goals yes but what's the point of a goal if it's easy! So if I had to guess on numbers it should take 7-800 RWHP.

2- I don't care what mods it needs, I can get a cowl fiberglass hood if I have to.

3- Is there anyway to remove the Crusher inlet from the blower? I'm sure its not one piece with the blower right?

4- How did your motor blow, aside from taking it to redline and past? Reasons for your motor to blow could have been the fuel you used, or tuned to the ragged edge, or a failed supporting part (injector,sensor, oil pump ect.) The point is, it might have blown regardless of which blower was on there. Also, I thought I read that Terminators have Kellog forged cranks, forged rods, and 8.5:1 forged pistons, that's built pretty damn good!

First lets stop the bullshit everyone CARES what there car makes for power.
Second if you dont care about getting a cowl hood then thats cool.
Third the crusher inlet which you will def need being that you will be spinning it to 30lbs of boost is pressed right up to the firewall and there is no way that you will be able to wrench your way back there to remove it.
Fourth I blew my motor cause I was racing it at 23+ lbs of boost. To sit here and blame my tuner, mechanic or who ever is just asinine. The terminator motors are built with all forged internals from the factory but they do have there limits. In my opinion 800 rwhp on a stock motor would be like pulling the pin on a grenade and walking with it!!!!!
As far as your goal of having a 9 second streetable car is great as long as you have the loot to make it all happen. When you start the build process I will be reading along as will everyone else on here. Good luck with your car and welcome to the site. :beer:

 

[jetmech]

Thanks for the well wishes, and seriously my first concern is what it will do at the track not what it makes on the dyno, so no bullshitting here. My opinion is why brag about a 700 RWHP dyno number then only run high 11's. I've seen 400 RWHP cars run high 11's. Thanks for the insight, it great to hear from the guys that have been there.

 

[mach1033]

Thanks for the well wishes, and seriously my first concern is what it will do at the track not what it makes on the dyno, so no bullshitting here. My opinion is why brag about a 700 RWHP dyno number then only run high 11's. I've seen 400 RWHP cars run high 11's. Thanks for the insight, it great to hear from the guys that have been there.

If the pockets are deep then I would say do an auto conversion along with changing over to a straight axle. It would be very difficult to break into the 9's in a six speed and IRS. And yes it has been done before but it is rare. As far as how well someone runs at the track all has to do with the driver and suspension set up. My car is a street car so I installed a complete Maximum Motorsport suspension system. I love handling versus just straight line driving which is why I would never change my IRS.

 

[Slow99x]

Yes, the 3.4 takes much more power to get it spinning than a 2.9 would. You are talking about a half litre displacement difference and the weight of the internals of the blower will put much more stress on the crank. If you want a 9 second streetable Cobra then I would look into twin turbos. There is zero parasitic loss because you are using spent exhaust to spin the turbines. If you want to drive to the local car show just push the button on the boost controller for "low boost" and load your 93 or 91 octane tune and cruse out. If you are headed to the track, hit the "kill mode" on your boost controller, load your race gas tune (make sure you have the gas too) and click off a 9 second pass.
There is no need to change belts and pullies. Your alternator will be in a better spot and will last longer too.

 

[jm@ReischePerf]

There is zero parasitic loss because you are using spent exhaust to spin the turbines.

Not to split hairs but spinning turbos creates a great deal of backpressure on the exhaust which is parasitic to some extent. But yes the correct size turbos will make hp more efficiently.

 

[jetmech]

Thanks guys for the thoughts, but I'm not going turbo and I'm not going to an auto. I feel that would be for when it is a race only car. But I'm considering going to a solid axle. I'm looking to what can be done to the IRS to hold up to the power.

 

[mach1033]

Thanks guys for the thoughts, but I'm not going turbo and I'm not going to an auto. I feel that would be for when it is a race only car. But I'm considering going to a solid axle. I'm looking to what can be done to the IRS to hold up to the power.

I have opinions on this as well. You can go with the full tilt boogie racing bushing kit. Also while you have the whole IRS on the ground it will be a great time to put on a Fore differential cover for added strength. Level 5 axles are an option but I don't think there worth the money in my opinion otherwise I would have purchased them myself. You can upgrade to a unit like a Detroit locker or tru trac as well but I think you can get away with what I mentioned.