HP is expensive. If you are really shooting for 1,000 RWHP, stick with I beam rods and specced wrist pins.
Just got a motor build quote and have questions
- Thread starter quikstang90
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I still feel building a 4.6/5.4 with a Turbo to 1k hp is way cheaper.
The 5.8 is a rare unique monster and building one is not cheap.
In the Audi world the Coated Sleeve V8’s are pretty much considered non-rebuildable for the reasons guys have mentioned here. The coating is to thin to bore/hone to get new rings seated.
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The 5.8 is a rare unique monster and building one is not cheap.
In the Audi world the Coated Sleeve V8’s are pretty much considered non-rebuildable for the reasons guys have mentioned here. The coating is to thin to bore/hone to get new rings seated.
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Lots of good advice on here so far, the first being really analyzing your goals with the car.
I feel the stock motor is safe at 750-800rwhp as long as you respect the octane and RPM.
Outside of that, unless you're going for a street/strip build where you'll actually run it hard at the strip like I do, you'll have more fun on the street at 750rwhp.
At 15,000 miles and asking for a reliable 1000hp you'll be in for a total engine build, and yes 1000hp engines cost big dollars.
You can cut a few options such as the CNC porting and sleeving and significantly reduce the cost, but those are things to discuss with the shop about YOUR plans.
Good luck.
-J
I feel the stock motor is safe at 750-800rwhp as long as you respect the octane and RPM.
Outside of that, unless you're going for a street/strip build where you'll actually run it hard at the strip like I do, you'll have more fun on the street at 750rwhp.
At 15,000 miles and asking for a reliable 1000hp you'll be in for a total engine build, and yes 1000hp engines cost big dollars.
You can cut a few options such as the CNC porting and sleeving and significantly reduce the cost, but those are things to discuss with the shop about YOUR plans.
Good luck.
-J
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Car already has a 2.4 upper, plugs, kb 168, pmas 6" lund tune , and kooks long tubes with full kooks exhaust, plus id1050's, bps fuel rails, twin vmp fuel pump boosters, vmp heat exchanger, plus full bmr suspension...... im wanting the power because i recently attended a wanna go fast 1/2 mile event and really enjoyed it and can see myself doing it more. Car was a pretty good performer just want more
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Nope car is still on stock wheels..... which i plan on keeping it that way. I run a nitto nt05r in 315/35/20 on the rear.
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I've been down this road twice. One time the engine didn't last more than 325 miles and 5 hours from what a lot of people call a reputable engine builder. The second time there wasn't enough left of the engine to fix without spending a small fortune. In my opinion Tim will quote you exactly what you need for the power you want. His reputation is at stake and he is going to quote you the parts and work to accomplish your Hp goals. can you build it cheaper? Yep, but it could cost you much more if it expires and eats itself afterwards.
The quote is in line for the work being performed. If it was my engine, I'd be spending more on additional parts for the timing chain system and a billet crankshaft.
The quote is in line for the work being performed. If it was my engine, I'd be spending more on additional parts for the timing chain system and a billet crankshaft.
I meant to say this in my first post as well. If you want to make that kind of power, and are concerned about the longevity of the engine, I'd definitely upgrade all timing components. I see you've got the upgraded secondary sprockets and chains, which is only a good starting point.
I'd upgrade the primary sprockets and chains to the larger GT/Navi components which will require you to get some new valve covers and have them customized. Also add the upgraded passenger side tensioner and you may even want to look into billet timing chain guides (still optional, IMO). You may also want to look into have all the timing components microblued.
Good God. $20k for a longblock is nuts.
Wish i had the money you guys do!
Wish i had the money you guys do!
Yeah long gone are the cheap days of building a motor.
I am almost tempted to pull my short block and put in a built iron block. This way if I grenade the motor I still have the stock on in the corner to put back in. I guess I need to look at the cost to see what that would even save, if any.
Bingo. A 1500hp capable iron 5.4 is $4k.
These al motor prices just seem like such a price gouge for the 5.8 guys!
Us Peasants just use Chevy 5.3s, that way when they pop it’s just a $600 replacement.
Care to share who? It seems you can't be PMed.
JimIII@jdm
Well-Known Member
I just wanted to jump in and say thanks to some of the guys who mentioned JDM Engineering. We do build a lot of 5.8's and some of the guys who've posted in here and on this forum are great examples of what we can do!
I looked at the estimate really quick and it's right on par, a few things we do different...but every artist paint's a different picture. It's best to call and get estimates and speak to the shops your looking at to get more knowledge about this sort of upgrade. It isn't cheap, but it is alot cheaper than having to build an entirely new engine if you grenade your's. The block and heads bare castings alone cost north of $10,000 from Ford.
To make 1000 HP (800-850 RWHP) vs. 1000 RWHP is a big jump. It requires additional upgrades to the timing components, valve train, and more. Not to mention the fuel system and other components out side of the engine it will require. If that is your goal and to do it safely you can easily approach 30K parts and labor.
If you have any questions or need an estimate from us just give me a shout at the office 732-780-0770 or email [email protected] We would be more than happy to discuss specifics and options.
Thanks,
JimIII@JDM
I looked at the estimate really quick and it's right on par, a few things we do different...but every artist paint's a different picture. It's best to call and get estimates and speak to the shops your looking at to get more knowledge about this sort of upgrade. It isn't cheap, but it is alot cheaper than having to build an entirely new engine if you grenade your's. The block and heads bare castings alone cost north of $10,000 from Ford.
To make 1000 HP (800-850 RWHP) vs. 1000 RWHP is a big jump. It requires additional upgrades to the timing components, valve train, and more. Not to mention the fuel system and other components out side of the engine it will require. If that is your goal and to do it safely you can easily approach 30K parts and labor.
If you have any questions or need an estimate from us just give me a shout at the office 732-780-0770 or email [email protected] We would be more than happy to discuss specifics and options.
Thanks,
JimIII@JDM
There you go...easy peasy. Just whip out that debit card and swipe $35k and be done with it and have fun. Love me some Merica!
First motor was L&M contracted through Evolution. OP had the thread deleted, it was a shit show. Didn't know he popped the replacement motor to that, that was supposed to be a high buck uber 1st rate effort.
He didn't pop the second one. That build isn't even complete yet.
"Bad Company -- I've been down this road twice. One time the engine didn't last more than 325 miles and 5 hours from what a lot of people call a reputable engine builder. The second time there wasn't enough left of the engine to fix without spending a small fortune."
Maybe the 2nd motor that popped wasn't a GT500 ?
He means the second build....there wasn't enough left of the original L&M built engine left to fix. Second build is still not complete.
L & M built the first engine that didn't survive.
I don't understand why I can't receive a Personal Message, I don't have anything turned off in my profile that can do this. I don't even know if I can turn off receiving PMs in the first place. I do know I can add people to an ignore list, but I don't have anyone listed in that portion of my profile. It wouldn't surprise me if my account was altered in some other manner though.
Someone send me a PM to see how this works.
I'be been through 2 builds of the 5.8L engine.
I have NOT blown two 5.8L engines.
The second built engine hasn't been fired up yet. The engine is back in the chassis. I'm still progressing with some modifications to the car to to reap the full benefits of this second built engine. If I'm lucky it may fire before the end of this year........but my luck with this car has never been good. I hoping it will be running in the spring.
The costs of building any GT500 engine to 1000RWHP as Jim said is expensive. These engine are very hard on timing chain components if you use a 2 step/WOT box or bang the engine against the Rev Limiter. I've also seen them break the primary timing chains when guys do big wheel stands at the track and pedal the throttle hard to try to set the front tires down gently. This is rare but it happens because of how much grip the tires have at the moment versus how fast the driver tries to get off and back on the throttle to keep the front end from slamming the ground hard. I've seen this happen twice over the years. This is what a few of my detractors said caused my first engine to fail. Unfortunately they weren't sitting along side me in the passengers seat to see this isn't what happened.
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