Let's talk clutches

[Captain Fluffy Nuggies]

Hey guys, so this summer, I was making some videos with my Cobra and was doing some clutch dumps with it to get the tires spinning for the videos I was making. Well, on one run, she got cranky and started spinning only the clutch and not the tires. I felt what was happening right away and pushed the clutch back in hopes of it not both exploding or welding itself to the flywheel. I let it cool and was able to get the final shot I was looking for and then we went home.

Everything is still fine with the car, but I'm thinking that I want to get everything replaced and fresh maybe this next year. So I'm looking for advice on what brand I should go for, what type of material, blah blah blah.

Back when I was just out of high school, I replaced the stock clutch in my Fauxbra with a King Cobra clutch. I think the thing was rated for 900 hp or something crazy like that, but needless to say it was too heavy. The car was darn near undriveable.

Right now, the car has stock motor, 4.10's, Nitto DR's, CAI, not tuned yet, kinda basic really, nothing too drastic over stock, so would a stock clutch be the best move? If suggested to do something able to handle more power (i.e. a King Cobra clutch), do they make a hydraulic clutch quadrant to help mitigate the extra weight that kind of clutch brings with it?

 

[I_like_turtlez]

Honestly I would allocate the money for a more expensive clutch and put it somewhere else like replacing everything from the shifter-bushing down to the clutch cable itself(obviously everything from the crank to the input shaft too)

I don't see a point in putting a heavy clutch in when the factory spec ones have been shown to handle 450hp+; I don't think too many clutches survive full on dumps and beatings for long

Zero chance I'd put in some 900hp drag race clutch on my car since I drive it around town, my left leg hurts just typing that

 

[ZD302GT]

I just put in a McLeod Street Pro (11") with their billet flywheel in my 2001 cobra and I am very disappointed with it. The engagement is all the way at the top of the pedal which makes it unpleasant to drive this is even after speaking with them about adjustments and they had me go to a aftermarket quadrant which didn't help at all either. And the flywheel and/or the pressure plate is severely out of balance causing bad vibrations at certain rpms. So it is coming back apart in the spring when I can driver the other cars. I'm not sure if I will take it to a machine shop for balancing or choose something different at this point.

 

[Captain Fluffy Nuggies]

I just put in a McLeod Street Pro (11") with their billet flywheel in my 2001 cobra and I am very disappointed with it. The engagement is all the way at the top of the pedal which makes it unpleasant to drive this is even after speaking with them about adjustments and they had me go to a aftermarket quadrant which didn't help at all either. And the flywheel and/or the pressure plate is severely out of balance causing bad vibrations at certain rpms. So it is coming back apart in the spring when I can driver the other cars. I'm not sure if I will take it to a machine shop for balancing or choose something different at this point.

I was literally just looking at that exact same clutch. Figured it was going to be better than anything RAM could put out. I also looked into the McLeod hydraulic clutch conversion kit but it looks like they don't make one that'll fit a 4V. Modern Driveline does though.

 

[Blkkbgt]

I just put in a McLeod Street Pro (11") with their billet flywheel in my 2001 cobra and I am very disappointed with it. The engagement is all the way at the top of the pedal which makes it unpleasant to drive this is even after speaking with them about adjustments and they had me go to a aftermarket quadrant which didn't help at all either. And the flywheel and/or the pressure plate is severely out of balance causing bad vibrations at certain rpms. So it is coming back apart in the spring when I can driver the other cars. I'm not sure if I will take it to a machine shop for balancing or choose something different at this point.

Speaking from experience here.

Your problem most likely nothing got do with your clutch but rather the fork.

I ran into this exact issue with an Exedy clutch. Engagement was at the top of the pedal travel and I hated it. I put maybe 500 miles on it before my engine came out for a rebuild

When I pulled they trans I found the issue with the clutch.

The fork was no longer fully engaged on the pivot stud. It had fallen so to speak off the stud.

I had replaced the fork when I did the clutch as most would do.

When look at how the fork operates the throwout bearing you can see how this would cause a longer engagement or engagement at the top of the clutch travel.

This is why when I installed my T56 I actually re-used the old fork even though it was worn a little. The new ford racing fork I bought would not stay in place and would drop off the pivot stud.

 

[ZD302GT]

I was literally just looking at that exact same clutch. Figured it was going to be better than anything RAM could put out. I also looked into the McLeod hydraulic clutch conversion kit but it looks like they don't make one that'll fit a 4V. Modern Driveline does though.

If you get something from McLeod, make sure you take it to be balanced before you install it. It is a shame they don't do this beforehand, especially since the 4.6 is an internally balanced architecture.

Speaking from experience here.

Your problem most likely nothing got do with your clutch but rather the fork.

I ran into this exact issue with an Exedy clutch. Engagement was at the top of the pedal travel and I hated it. I put maybe 500 miles on it before my engine came out for a rebuild

When I pulled they trans I found the issue with the clutch.

The fork was no longer fully engaged on the pivot stud. It had fallen so to speak off the stud.

I had replaced the fork when I did the clutch as most would do.

When look at how the fork operates the throwout bearing you can see how this would cause a longer engagement or engagement at the top of the clutch travel.

This is why when I installed my T56 I actually re-used the old fork even though it was worn a little. The new ford racing fork I bought would not stay in place and would drop off the pivot stud.

Interesting, I replaced my fork with a new ford unit as well when doing the clutch. I paid close attention to getting everything greased and lined up and carefully installing the trans. I doubt it fell off the pivot ball. I feel that if it had fallen off that would create a bit more slack in the system, making the clutch disengage further down on the pedal than it does.

 

[Blkkbgt]

Interesting, I replaced my fork with a new ford unit as well when doing the clutch. I paid close attention to getting everything greased and lined up and carefully installing the trans. I doubt it fell off the pivot ball. I feel that if it had fallen off that would create a bit more slack in the system, making the clutch disengage further down on the pedal than it does.

Keep in mind the fork pivots off the opposite side of where the cable connects.

If it pops off the throwout bearing it is no longer being actuated from the center of its diameter. This is what will increase the clutch pedal travel.

When I did my clutch I used a new OEM ford cable and my adjuster was almost all the way out which was surprising.

When I pulled the trans and found the fork it all hit me. When I put my old fork on I realized how week the retainer was.

I am not saying 100% this is your problem but it's worth a look.

One way you can check is to pull the fork cover and stick a bore scope in there and see. Even a cheap Amazon phone bore scope will be fine.

If you take the cable tension off your your fork you may even be able to feel it.

 

[beefcake]

guys we have 20% off mcleod coming up on our bonus day sale this friday!!!