Looking for suspension recommendations

[me32]

Would I have to use camber bolts for the FRPP k springs and KONI struts and gt500 strut mount

When we installed the k springs on a couple buddy cars. 11gt and 13 gt using tokico adjustable struts we did not have to use camber bolts the alignment was able to get in spec. But every car is different so its possible to be slightly out of spec. Personally im not a fan of the camber bolts cause its a ban aid. But people have used them with and it worked for them.

 

[me32]

By the way, in your original post you said you wanted to lower your car slightly. With a 1.5" drop your car may not be considered slammed but I would say it is much more than a slight drop.

If you want a lesser drop I would suggest either the Ford P springs or the Steeda Sports.

If you want something with less than a 1" drop then consider the Roush springs (the regular ones, not the Extreme ones).

You MIGHT be able to get away without the camber bolts with the Roush springs if you are running OEM alignment specs. Each car is a little different. I have the Roush springs and because I want to run -1.5° of camber to assist with handling on a road course, I needed either camber bolts, the Steeda HD mount, or a full caster/camber plate.

I chose the Steeda HD mount because it has a polyurethane bushing that results in less NVH than full-on caster/camber plates.

This info is good aswell and the Frpp P springs are another option too. There are lots of spring options for the OP.

 

[Coz]

Personally im not a fan of the camber bolts cause its a ban aid. But people have used them with and it worked for them.

The camber bolts should be ok on the street. I did not want them since I take my car to road course tracks 4-6 times a year. The camber bolts are thinner than the stock bolts since they have the eccentric lobe to allow for camber adjustments.

I did not want a weaker bolt in that area given the additional stress I'm placing on those critical components.

 

[GNBRETT]

Viking makes some sweet coilovers but their pricey but worth every penny. one of the best mods I ever did to mine. they have so much adjustability that u can DD with them or track it

One more question I have looked at coil overs before just for the height adjustability . Could I use them instead or would the Koni and FRPP be a better choice

 

[me32]

The camber bolts should be ok on the street. I did not want them since I take my car to road course tracks 4-6 times a year. The camber bolts are thinner than the stock bolts since they have the eccentric lobe to allow for camber adjustments.

I did not want a weaker bolt in that area given the additional stress I'm placing on those critical components.

That is my concern that its a weaker bolt. There is a reason why the factory went with a bigger and stronger bolt.

 

[paulyboy928]

OP, if you have the coin, ditch the pan hard bar and snag a watts link. I made the switch and it is hands down worth every penny.

 

[Coz]

If you want a front pair of the Roush springs cheap, Roush is selling blemished versions on their eBay site for $20 each ($40-pair)

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/273017806980

 

[Coz]

If you decide to go with the GT500 strut mounts, a take-off pair is available from Athens Ford at:

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/302416765991

 

[nate714]

OP, if you have the coin, ditch the pan hard bar and snag a watts link. I made the switch and it is hands down worth every penny.

How much difference does the watts link make on regular street driving or rough roads? I've been eyeballing wattslinks for a while but not sure how much rigidity I want to add to the car because my commute involves a few really rough service roads and a lot of rail tracks.

 

[paulyboy928]

It makes a huge difference. Easily one of the best mods I've done. It doesn't necessarily add rigidity, it just keeps the axle centered. It totally removes the "dancing" of the rear end on rough roads and bumps.