M122 Mach Build

[XXWildCoyoteXX]

So its been long enough and time to make up a build thread.
Dont really do these much so ill do my best to keep it all in order.

Ive been tossing it around a bit to do a eaton swap or turbo setup after i sold my Vortech kit.
Aimed to do a eaton, but wanted to be much more different then a normal eaton swap.
After reading around about the M122 swap and how Cobra Engineering made a kit to do the swap to our 4v's I chose that route.
Yes, ive heard the stories about it being much more costly and just get a full eaton swap and be done with it. I didnt want to go this same sought out direction. I wanted those cobra gawkers to be like, "the hell is this setup he got over here?!" when i pop the hood next to a cobra. Cause all yall can agree, a GT500 blower peaking out from under the shaker and the intake going the opposite direction would call for attention.

But enough of the reasoning of my decision and now to the photos and Build process. Cause all yall love them photos and sigh when you have to read any more then you have to XD.

OK, I am coming from a stock 04 block. Ran a V1-SI intercooled on it pushing 450/443 tuned down from 487/446. Wanted to keep the block together so I didnt want to over do it much.

After moving back to Indiana from Florida. Yea I know, "why the hell would you move to indiana from florida?!?!"
Job and money, plus family back in indiana to get me back on my feet.

After getting back I started tearing the old girl apart that next winter.

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Ill add more throughout the night on my build.

 

[XXWildCoyoteXX]

Threw out the heavy and junky Kmember and pick up myself a UPR Chromoly one with A-arms.
Sadly I installed all that with the motor in the car still. Was pretty annoying when I found out they sent me a Pushrod swap Kmemeber instead of a mod motor.
Got the correct one and it went in pretty simple. Steering rack was an pain but it all worked out.

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UPR Coilover kit with Lakewood 90/10 struts. Found out the hard way that one was shot and ride quality on the country roads. Off to something difference for my Highway Brawler.

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[XXWildCoyoteXX]

Prior to all this I built my rearend up to handle what I was planning on throwing at it.
Installed a Detroit Trutrac, Ford Racing 4:10s ( planning on pulling out after car is tuned and going with 3:55 or 3:27s)
Moser 31 Spline Axle Shafts, ARP Diff cap Studs and Diff Cover Studs. Along with a Drake Diff Cover.
Later on when I do my Gear swap I will be welding the axle tubes and adding a small amount of bracing.

Rest of the rear end upgrades I have done would be. MM Panhard Bar, Lakewood 50/50 shocks, UPR Coilover kit, and all Grade 8 hardware upgrade.
Upper and Lower Control arms still to come along with Torque box reinforcement through personal welding and UPR Reinforcement kit.

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[XXWildCoyoteXX]

Now I did upgrade my fuel system. I went with the Lethal Performance Budget kit. Sticking with the stock fuel hardline cause our stock fuel line and rails can handle up around 600ish just fine.
Went a bit over kill on the dual pumps. Walbro 465 pumps will be feeding the E85 with 60lbs injectors.
My purchased Mach came with a cobra tank and pumps, just saves me from upgrading my tank or modding it with baffles later on.

Got a little carried away with installing everything soooo I didnt get any pics of the fuel system install.

Just one of the Pumps that i had to seat as far as they could. Them 465 pumps are pretty big.

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[XXWildCoyoteXX]

Now for the motor.
Completely tore it all down to a bare block.
Rehoned all the sleeves. Such low miles and not ran hard the cylinders before honing looked like the block just came out of the factory.
Upgraded the rotating assembly with some low miles cobra rods and pistons. Took the whole assembly to a local engine builder and had it all 100% balanced. Guy was pretty shocked how the cobra rods and pistons were so unbalanced and off by a few grams a piece.

Stuck with my high flow oil pump and gear. No need to upgrade cause I wont be reving the engine over 7500 or 8k. Pump will do fine on my current build.
Upgraded to ARP Head Studs
Installed 98 Cobra intake cams
Cloytes Secondary Cam Gears
98 Cobra ARP Cam Bolts
New bearing (old ones were practically perfect but had new so I just installed them)
New Rings
Removed Knock sensors and landings so I can install the Cobra lower intake.

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Paint marks galor

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All cleaned and waiting for the new rotating assembly to get back.

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Balanced crank installed.

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Rod and pistons all in now.

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ARP Studs Installed.

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Exhaust Port and Polish job I did.

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Before

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After

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[XXWildCoyoteXX]

One side reinstalled.

All back together. Fingers crossed that all marks are spot on since i took the chains off.

Should look good in my Comp Mach

Covers all sealed and torqued down for good now.
Crank was just painted due to extra paint and I didnt want to put a rusty colored pulley back on.
Metco Hub should cover it up pretty well when installed.

 

[XXWildCoyoteXX]

So yea, due to living in the north you're considered to be in the rust belt by most people.
Thats where I decided to go a little overboard. Just a little and not to crazy.
I removed both front fenders and taped off all areas ive seen rust or common northern paint chipping areas. Laid down some Rhino Line inside the fender area, then the trans tunnel and where the hood latch bolts down.

While doing all this I also did a wire tuck for a much more cleaner engine bay.
Fuse box relocated just below the horn location. Passenger side small fuse box placed above the Intercooler pump.
Maf Wiring pulled back to just before going into the compartment and extended to the driver side.

 

[XXWildCoyoteXX]

Now as of recent stuff i've gotten together and done.
Motor and trans are waiting to be dropped back into the car this week sometime. Stock 3650 will be used until I find a local or near as possible t56 to pick up. All i am really looking for in the T56 is a 26 Spline input shaft. Everything else will be perfectly fine for my power lvl and intended use.
The 3650 currently has a Mcleod Super Street Pro clutch, Pro 5.0 shifter, and Ford racing Aluminum Drive shaft.
No grinding or noises at all. Basically just something to Dyno tune the car on and putz around till the upgrade.

Just recoated and cooked my headers with ceramic paint and then wrapped them for a better look and lower engine bay temps.
I know some people say its bad to wrap and it will make them crap out faster. Hey, they just pacesetters and im just wanting to see how much crap you can put that LTs through till they truly crap out on ya.

 

[mustangmanjeff]

nice work, its cool to see something diffrent, suprise more people dont do the m122 gt500 blower swaps, so many cheap ones on the market, being everybody upgrades to the 2013+ tvs blowers or kb or whipples etc on them cars. and the m122 makes more power then a eaton m112 setup. cant wait to see more progress!!

 

[XXWildCoyoteXX]

nice work, its cool to see something diffrent, suprise more people dont do the m122 gt500 blower swaps, so many cheap ones on the market, being everybody upgrades to the 2013+ tvs blowers or kb or whipples etc on them cars. and the m122 makes more power then a eaton m112 setup. cant wait to see more progress!!

Yea, with a simple port and Polish job on the m122 I've seen a few people in the 600s. Plus I'll be running E85 and later after the trans upgrade, I'll be throwing a 125 shot ontop of it just for fun.

 

[BLKFOX]

:rockon:

 

[Dikki18]

Looking forward to watching this build!

 

[XXWildCoyoteXX]

Alright, so today I got that damn motor and trans finally in. Feels like forever since ive seen it back where it belongs.
Went in pretty well actually, not to much hassle.

It was installed with no headers on so thus making it that much less difficult.

Couldnt get the paint off the main body that well. No biggy cause ill be upgrading to a T56 here soon. When I find a good deal close by.

 

[XXWildCoyoteXX]

Got my head cooling mod installed. Just in need of 3 fittings and a hose to connect between the two.

 

[XXWildCoyoteXX]

Got my M122 unit.
Ended up Port and Polishing the Elbow. Pretty thrown off in how porous it is inside.
Took quite a bit of sanding to get it smoothed out. The 3 stage polish made it pop for sure.

Plus found out the rear port on the elbow is the perfect size to thread and install my Zex nozzle. Just until i later on can mock up a Direct port system.

 

[XXWildCoyoteXX]

Got the motor placed back in the bay again. Now just rerouting wiring and cleaning it up a bit.

Today got the rear mounted Battery installed and new power cable ran.
Ended up routing the cable inside on the passenger side. Ran it out a plugged hole in the Bulkhead right next to the main wiring harness connector. Then ran it down to the starter.

Finished the fuel system install today. Complete Lethal Budget Return system.
Nice thing is when removing your evap line, the provided return hose fits right into those evap connectors perfectly.

 

[Roots-type]

If you haven't already, you might replace the bearings in all the accessory/idler pulleys before you button it up. Napa # 6203-2RSJ are the good ones. Cool build!

 

[XXWildCoyoteXX]

If you haven't already, you might replace the bearings in all the accessory/idler pulleys before you button it up. Napa # 6203-2RSJ are the good ones. Cool build!

Thanks for the heads up, but I already replaced the idlers and accessory drive pulleys due to clearance for the custom brackets for supercharger belt drive.

 

[XXWildCoyoteXX]

Just got my Cobra Engineering Plate kit over the weekend. Sadly I need to find the TB adapter plate or find a Cable actuated GT500 TB.
Kit is well made I do say so myself. Only annoying thing was making all the holes match for the bolts. Redrilling without a drillpress was tedious, but i got it all done.
Pulled off the M122 Steeda Pulley with a normal puller. Brass hammer not to damage the pulley and light tapping an the sucker came right off. Then heated up the extension with a torch and she slide right on perfectly, no pressing needed.

Looks like an enjoyable time when I go to adjust the shaker into a good position. :cryying:

 

[XXWildCoyoteXX]

Aside from searching out a standard IAT2 sensor and wiring. I think Im going to use a lightning screw in IAT and place it in the bottom of the Lower Manifold. Right where the plug hole is. Anyone try this at all? Anyone's 2 cents would be welcome.