This is where I got the hardware from. Very nice pieces and price was okay with me.
http://www.proweldperformanceparts.com/id174.html
Mach 1 K-member swap, engine removal, and valve spring replacement ("build" thread)
- Thread starter starnsey
- Start date
This is where I got the hardware from. Very nice pieces and price was okay with me.
http://www.proweldperformanceparts.com/id174.html
Got a chance to do a little work today. Sucks that the sun goes down by 6 now but oh well.
Got all the gaskets and hardware needed to install the new valve covers and put the coil covers on as well to see how sexy this engine is going to be. The passenger side valve cover gasket was Felpro but it was the tiniest bit too short. Had to really finess it to get it to stay in place but I got it on there. Put a 1" long blob of gasket maker at the head-to-timing-cover seams and tightened down my new allen-head black oxide bolts.
Hmmm...that doesn't seem right putting the bolt and washer directly onto the rubber grommet. Oh well! I'm not missing anything. *begins to clean up trash and realizes that the old grommets have a boss that they go around to actually torque the bolts down* ******! Pulled off two to four bolts at a time and installed the boss support piece into each of the grommets. Hopefully enough pressure remained on the valve covers to keep the gasket maker in good condition!
Anyway, here is a little preview of what this baby is going to look like:
Trying to figure out what clutch to go with. I really want a McLeod RXT but I have no need for that sort of torque/horsepower capability and I really don't think I want to spend over $1000 for everything. Thinking I may just got with an Exedy Mach 500 for now. What do y'all think?
man that is sick!!!!!! i cant wait to get a cobra and do that exact combo!! Those powered by ford coil covers look hawtttttt!!!
Haha, yep. All thanks to you!
haha man i hope i can get a sick cobra wrapped up next year and screw mods like ported eaton and pulleys im going straight for exhaust, jlt cf intake and the wrinkle blue valve covers and coil covers!!! and FYI i still have that JLT CF RAI i will make you a deal on!!! :beer:
Went ahead and ordered an Exedy Mach 500 with Ford throwout and pilot bearing so hopefully I made the right choice! Pretty much anything should be better than the Spec Stage 2+ that came out of the transmission. Is it absolutely necessary for me to have the flywheel resurfaced for this?
Welp, just realized my valve covers aren't correct. I thought Mach 1's and Cobra's had the same valve covers? The PCV mounts are opposite of what they should be on my new powdercoated ones:
Driver:
Passenger:
Original Driver:
Whats the deal here?
Driver:
Passenger:
Original Driver:
Whats the deal here?
Those are the original location for B headed covers.
Damn, I figured it would be something like that. I sent an email to the vendor hoping that I can get the correct set. We'll see. I really don't want to route a bunch of ugly hose everywhere after spending all this time trying to make my engine bay look nice.
Does anyone have any ideas besides running tubing all the way from the passenger to the drivers side and vice versa?
told you, you should have bought my wrinkle valve covers too smh
Haha, apparently! I'm hoping these guys get back to me soon because this is a huge setback in getting my car back together.
haha should have ran it by me! lol where you buy them from? only thing i can think of is putting pcv filters on and calling it a day
Waiting on my headers to be ceramic coated and got my crossover and new aluminum reservoir powdercoated as well. Hopefully I'll have the parts back Monday.
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:beer:
Keep up the great work op getting ready to do a QA1 front and turbo on my mach
A most excellent writeup! Got bored over at the 2011 & up section and came here to see what was going on. Read this thread from start to finish. Subbed to keep up on your progress. Good luck! :beer:
Thanks! Unfortunately I'm on a hiatus waiting for powdercoated/ceramic coated parts to come back to me. Until those return I'm pretty much at a stand-still
2000StreetRod
New Member
Stroke or not?
I've thoroughly enjoyed reading your extremely well documented thread on the Mach 1 engine removal. I have recently purchased a DOHC V8 out of an Aviator that needs a new crankshaft due to two spinning rod bearings. After rebuilding the engine I plan to install it in a 2002 or 2003 Explorer. I've purchased the Mach 1 intake manifold, plenum and throttle body. Since I need a new crankshaft I'm considering a 3.75 inch stroker kit but have concerns about oil control for the long connecting rods, and piston slap and wear for the shorter connecting rods. I don't know which rod length your MMR crank uses but in the two years you've had the vehicle have you experienced excess oil consumption if you have the long rods. Or, if you have the short rods did you notice excess wear on the cylinders due to the short distance from the piston pin center to the bottom of the cylinders when the pistons are at BDC?
Edit: It looks like mmr uses the 5.850" long rods for their 3.75" stroker kits. So did you notice any scuffing of the cylinder walls near the bottom?
I've thoroughly enjoyed reading your extremely well documented thread on the Mach 1 engine removal. I have recently purchased a DOHC V8 out of an Aviator that needs a new crankshaft due to two spinning rod bearings. After rebuilding the engine I plan to install it in a 2002 or 2003 Explorer. I've purchased the Mach 1 intake manifold, plenum and throttle body. Since I need a new crankshaft I'm considering a 3.75 inch stroker kit but have concerns about oil control for the long connecting rods, and piston slap and wear for the shorter connecting rods. I don't know which rod length your MMR crank uses but in the two years you've had the vehicle have you experienced excess oil consumption if you have the long rods. Or, if you have the short rods did you notice excess wear on the cylinders due to the short distance from the piston pin center to the bottom of the cylinders when the pistons are at BDC?
Edit: It looks like mmr uses the 5.850" long rods for their 3.75" stroker kits. So did you notice any scuffing of the cylinder walls near the bottom?
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Oh man, unfortunately with the previous owner being the one to have the engine built, I'm not sure of the rod length. However, I have looked fairly thoroughly at the cylinder walls from the bottom of the block to check for any issues and did not notice anything that I would consider worrisome. Basically, if I were building a new engine from the ground up, I would have no concern using a stroker kit.
My only issues with my engine have been drivability, which is more than likely an issue with my tune or my electronics controlling the idling components, which I hope to get worked out once this thing is back together.
2000StreetRod
New Member
mmr head cooling mod configuration
Thanks for the response. You mentioned that your max power was less than expected. I've read some posts by Mustang owners that the stroker kit doesn't increase the max horsepower because of the increase in weight but does increase the low and midrange torque which is what I want. I hate to replace the reciprocating assembly without getting some displacement increase so I think I'll go with the shorter rods and 3.75 inch stroke.
I plan to install the newer mmr head cooling mod with the short barb hose fittings. I'm thinking about using a T fitting to tie the hoses into the heater return pipe in the block valley. Is that your configuration?
Thanks for the response. You mentioned that your max power was less than expected. I've read some posts by Mustang owners that the stroker kit doesn't increase the max horsepower because of the increase in weight but does increase the low and midrange torque which is what I want. I hate to replace the reciprocating assembly without getting some displacement increase so I think I'll go with the shorter rods and 3.75 inch stroke.
I plan to install the newer mmr head cooling mod with the short barb hose fittings. I'm thinking about using a T fitting to tie the hoses into the heater return pipe in the block valley. Is that your configuration?
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