mach1 N/A how much power?

[PaPa_Bear619]

ok so does anyone have a built N/A mach 1? after asking about the functionality of the shaker after a SC is bolted on im curious to know how much power i can grab off the motor if i build it for NA and what mods under the hood will get these numbers cuz it'd be nice to keep the shaker fully functional so that my mach stays a mach and not a half arse cobra

thanks in advance

 

[OrangeMach23]

ok so does anyone have a built N/A mach 1? after asking about the functionality of the shaker after a SC is bolted on im curious to know how much power i can grab off the motor if i build it for NA and what mods under the hood will get these numbers cuz it'd be nice to keep the shaker fully functional so that my mach stays a mach and not a half arse cobra

thanks in advance

You can keep the shaker there no matter what. Mine is actually just on there now for looks. It just brings cooler air into the engine compartment so I guess you can say it is still some what functional?

 

[pho_phizzat]

For real, you are probably only gonna get 350 or so with ported intake cams and heads and full boltons


Another option for you is Nitrious....

now days its alot safer than you would think. you can safely spray 100 shot on a stock motor. you can get an msd window switch that will only allow certain things, a custom dyno tune is a must!

You can get around 400 hp and 460-500 ftlbs for around 2 grand total,

thats nitrous kit, window switch, tune axles tires and gears.

along with 4.30 gears and 31 spline axels with drag radials you will be into the 11's easy

 

[TR03Mach1]

That motor might look big, but it's just a little 281c.i., not a big old 428! You want big horsepower, you're gonna have to give up the quaint notion of keeping the shaker functional, and running all motor, and go forced induction of some kind, that's just the way it is!

 

[97desertCobra]

ok so does anyone have a built N/A mach 1? after asking about the functionality of the shaker after a SC is bolted on im curious to know how much power i can grab off the motor if i build it for NA and what mods under the hood will get these numbers cuz it'd be nice to keep the shaker fully functional so that my mach stays a mach and not a half arse cobra

thanks in advance

If you want lots of n/a power its going to cost alot of money. It is far more expensive to get 400rwhp n/a than it is 400rwhp FI. There is a member on this forum with a 99 Cobra that made over 500rwhp n/a(Nazman) but it certainly wasn't cheap. With the amount of money he spent just to make 500rwhp n/a I could make 700rwhp FI and have some left over for suspension. I could also argue that the FI car would have better street maners because you dont have to use radical cams with tons of duration and you dont have to gear the hell out of the car because to also make that power n/a you will have to spin the engine really high.

It really comes down to how much you want to make and how much you want to spend. Also are you going to turn your own wrenches? Another member on this forum Chris_Scott has an sn95 Cobra with a 03/04 C head swap(same heads as Mach 1) with aftermarket cams and stock 99/01 Cobra intake and he made 370rwhp. Now his car is a bit ahead of the curve as its not normal to make that much power with the mods he has but it is a possibility.

 

[OrangeMach23]

If you want lots of n/a power its going to cost alot of money. It is far more expensive to get 400rwhp n/a than it is 400rwhp FI. There is a member on this forum with a 99 Cobra that made over 500rwhp n/a(Nazman) but it certainly wasn't cheap. With the amount of money he spent just to make 500rwhp n/a I could make 700rwhp FI and have some left over for suspension. I could also argue that the FI car would have better street maners because you dont have to use radical cams with tons of duration and you dont have to gear the hell out of the car because to also make that power n/a you will have to spin the engine really high.

It really comes down to how much you want to make and how much you want to spend. Also are you going to turn your own wrenches? Another member on this forum Chris_Scott has an sn95 Cobra with a 03/04 C head swap(same heads as Mach 1) with aftermarket cams and stock 99/01 Cobra intake and he made 370rwhp. Now his car is a bit ahead of the curve as its not normal to make that much power with the mods he has but it is a possibility.

:rockon::beer: I lucked out and got a smoking deal on my ProCharger kit from a co-worker who was switching to turbos.

 

[PaPa_Bear619]

well that settles it then

Thanks for the input guess i will get that vortech and some 3.90 gears after all how bout suspension i read on mm&ff that the griggs GR40 was a good set up

 

[04Mach1Blurr]

Thanks for the input guess i will get that vortech and some 3.90 gears after all how bout suspension i read on mm&ff that the griggs GR40 was a good set up

Yea it's a great package, but $$$$. Alot of people go with Maximum Motorsports, steeds, and a couple other parts. Just remember, You Pay For What You Get upr=poop

 

[97desertCobra]

Thanks for the input guess i will get that vortech and some 3.90 gears after all how bout suspension i read on mm&ff that the griggs GR40 was a good set up

It is a good set up, one of if not the best set up. It also comes with a price. If you are serious about open track then look at the GR40 or what Maximum Motorsports offers. Also I would look into 3.90 gears closely, not many people have them for a reason. I would only run 3.90's in my car if they were made by Ford, but Ford doesn't make 3.90's.

 

[97desertCobra]

:rockon::beer: I lucked out and got a smoking deal on my ProCharger kit from a co-worker who was switching to turbos.

I bought my D1SC kit used in the market section for less than 3k!:beer:

 

[PaPa_Bear619]

It is a good set up, one of if not the best set up. It also comes with a price. If you are serious about open track then look at the GR40 or what Maximum Motorsports offers. Also I would look into 3.90 gears closely, not many people have them for a reason. I would only run 3.90's in my car if they were made by Ford, but Ford doesn't make 3.90's.

hmm so 3.90's wouldnt be a good idea? so should i stick with the 3.55 or hit the middle mark (i forgot what ratio it was sorry) or will 4.10's be ok with the FI set up?

 

[97desertCobra]

hmm so 3.90's wouldnt be a good idea? so should i stick with the 3.55 or hit the middle mark (i forgot what ratio it was sorry) or will 4.10's be ok with the FI set up?

I wouldn't buy a set of 3.90 gears from the companies that currently offer them but thats me. You could get a set of 3.73's but its not a big step up from the 3.55's. 4.10's are a decent step up, they are also as steep as I would go with a centri blower.

I'm running 3.73's in my car. Its a really nice gear when you are doing some high speed pulls or racing from a roll as the gear lets you stretch out the legs of the car a little more than 4.10's. However the 3.73's are not that great from a dig compared to 4.10's. I also have a T-56 trans and in the future I will swap to 4.10's once my rebuild is complete and I start to spin the engine past 7k.

 

[PaPa_Bear619]

I wouldn't buy a set of 3.90 gears from the companies that currently offer them but thats me. You could get a set of 3.73's but its not a big step up from the 3.55's. 4.10's are a decent step up, they are also as steep as I would go with a centri blower.

I'm running 3.73's in my car. Its a really nice gear when you are doing some high speed pulls or racing from a roll as the gear lets you stretch out the legs of the car a little more than 4.10's. However the 3.73's are not that great from a dig compared to 4.10's. I also have a T-56 trans and in the future I will swap to 4.10's once my rebuild is complete and I start to spin the engine past 7k.

ok so trying to sum up what your saying. so 3.73's for now but once ive built up the motor to get past the 7k area 4.10's would be ok since i can build up boost a tad longer ?

 

[04Mach1Blurr]

ok so trying to sum up what your saying. so 3.73's for now but once ive built up the motor to get past the 7k area 4.10's would be ok since i can build up boost a tad longer ?

Its almost a waste to just go from 3:55s to 3:73s, if your staying n/a just go 4:10s, 4:30s, 4:56. Then when you go FI, just sell the gears and get a lower ratio. Unless you want to get 3:73s and just leave them in for ur n/a set up. They will compaire very similar to the stock gearing though, but will be better for FI

 

[EVO-lution]

Big single turbo and Built motor FTW :rockon: Done. end thread/

 

[PaPa_Bear619]

Big single turbo and Built motor FTW :rockon: Done. end thread/

:lol:

 

[JeromeMach1]

I posted this in your other thread but this answers your specific question here. My mild set up numbers are in my sig. You can make more with a shorter runner length intake and more agressive cams. This comes with trade offs though.

Jerome

 

[97desertCobra]

ok so trying to sum up what your saying. so 3.73's for now but once ive built up the motor to get past the 7k area 4.10's would be ok since i can build up boost a tad longer ?

Well here it is from my perspective. 4.10's and a centri blower are a wicked combination for a street car. It will be fast off the line and it will pull like a frieght train up top. The down side to the 4.10's is that the rpms are higher during highway cruising and you row the gears faster thus putting you into 5th gear faster when roll racing or doing a high speed/top speed run. Having 4.10's will limit the top speed of your car more so than 3.73's. I know this is irrelevant to most people but I have taken my car to 150mph before and I want to do it again in the future(I have dreams of going to the Texas mile).

The 3.73's have been a good gear for roll racing with a centri blower because I still get into the powerband rather quickly and it still has enough leg for the top speed. In the future when I rebuild and spin the engine past 7k rpms the car will be able to reach a much higher top speed even with 4.10 or 4.30. For me I'm looking at the total picture when it comes to my car, faster in the power band but still not too much to kill my top end=3.73. But for the majority of people who couldn't care less about going 150mph and just want a sick street car then 4.10's and a centri all day.

 

[shaken_1]

being na making 361hp and running 410s I have taken other 4v machs with centrifcal blowers so i like the high gears na i would run 430 and blown max 410 plus the best thing about the na when we did a roll i always had the jump while they were trying to build boost
best 1/8th mile was a 7.9 na

 

[ponygt65]

FI - I'd go with 3.73s or 3.90s if you plan on keeping the stock 5spd. (keep in mnind you are going FI. 3.73s in FI are a bigger jump than staying N/A, IMO). It has a fairly steep first gear. If you go with a vortech, Make sure you get an AfterCooler or a customer intercooler. Have it tuned by an extrememly reputable 4V FI tuner. I'd keep it under 450rwhp (~425 if it's a DD). Keep fuel under 12.0 A/F IMO. Timing=mid 10s (15-17).

N/A - Staying with 4.6L you're looking at ~375RWHP tops and that'll cost you. Also, I'd go 4.10s or 4.30s if you want some nice pick me up gear.

Basic bolt ons for the mean time that will work with either setup?.....

X-pipe with highflow cats, Borla or SLP LM catback (pending the sound you like), PHP or Roy intake spacer, K and N Drop in Filter, And an ALuminum DS.