Malcolm's Teksid Cobra rebuild thread

cj428mach

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You could always tap the freeze plugs as mentioned above. May of the really high performance ford's of the day had this done from the factory...Boss 429, Boss 302 etc.
 

MalcolmV8

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From my googling around a good steel freeze plug with sealant installed properly and squarely should not come out. I'll run it by the machine shop though.
 

MalcolmV8

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Right but did you notice the OP goes on to say he had a diluted coolant mix and sat in an unheated garage and possibly could have frozen and pushed out, another goes on to say using shallow plugs caused him issues and then he switched out to a deeper plug and never had an issue again. Every thread I find seems to have some sort of "circumstance". Concerning non the less. I'll definitely see what my machine shop has to say. They do a lot of mod motors so I'm sure he's very familiar with this issue.
 

PWORLDSTANG

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Right but did you notice the OP goes on to say he had a diluted coolant mix and sat in an unheated garage and possibly could have frozen and pushed out, another goes on to say using shallow plugs caused him issues and then he switched out to a deeper plug and never had an issue again. Every thread I find seems to have some sort of "circumstance". Concerning non the less. I'll definitely see what my machine shop has to say. They do a lot of mod motors so I'm sure he's very familiar with this issue.

Nope, I missed that. I'll have to re-read the thread. The other thread that RaceBronco mentions his block modification for securing the freeze plug is the second page on a thread you started a few months back.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...g-to-an-aluminum-block/page2&highlight=teksid

Whatever you decided, please post up about it, even if you decide against doing anything to them at all. It all makes for good information.

:beer:
 

MalcolmV8

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Nope, I missed that. I'll have to re-read the thread. The other thread that RaceBronco mentions his block modification for securing the freeze plug is the second page on a thread you started a few months back.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...g-to-an-aluminum-block/page2&highlight=teksid

Whatever you decided, please post up about it, even if you decide against doing anything to them at all. It all makes for good information.

:beer:

Thanks for the refresh on that link. I noticed even racebronco says he switched to the deeper plugs and never had a problem again. It seems to be a common solution I find across the forums and sounds like it may be the answer. I also hear a lot about Sean Hyland's book on building 4.6 mod motors. Sounds like a wealth of info in there so I ordered it tonight.
So far from what I've learned it sounds like I'll be asking the machine shop to replace all the freeze plugs with the deeper style plugs that have more surface area and are much harder to come back out. More to come as I learn more....
 

MTBSully

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Yup rebuilt my motor in 09. Put down low 700s and ran like a champ ever since. This would be my first aluminum mod motor.

Awesome. Keep us updated. Hoping to make big power on my untouched longblock this summer so i probably should follow this thread....
 

c6zhombre

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badass thread and great teamwork with your son!

I'm very pleased you chose the lightweight teksid/aluminum block avenue...this is going to be many months of good reading :)
 

MalcolmV8

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Comp cam on left, stock on right.

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Just some mock up and working out differences between blocks prior to getting that block off to the machine shop. Details of all that in the other thread I have "differences between teksid and stock block"

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Had fun pulling this sucker out. Rear cover was leaking so needed to pull and reseal.

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Once we opened it up the boy was fascinated and spinning it around lol. Guess its a lot more interesting than a youtube video.

Some randoms:
Egg carton holder to keep cylinder head parts in order so they go back in the exact same spot.

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New 3" exhaust vs 2.5" that was there.

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MalcolmV8

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So we opened this up, cleared the sealing surface and ready to close up. It's not closed yet, got side tracked lol.

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Can't even begin to explain how much fun it is to degrease and clean these parts outside when it's sleeting and about 6F and the wind is blowing... about to just dump solvents in the living room and fire up the pressure washer there too haha.

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So we have a delay on the machine shop right now. All parts are dropped off with them and now keeping busy on what we have to work with. So decided the IRS should probably come out for a bit of maintenance.

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Lower control arms too

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Figured its time for these crappy stock rubbers to go. Can't believe I've lived with them for so many years

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This was just half of one bushing out. By the time the whole bushing was out and the hole wire wheel cleaned the mess is unreal. Looked like a bushing bomb went off in there lol

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The IRS sub frame bushings were much easier to remove than the control arms. Those suckers where in there so hard I got the gas torch out and heated the heck out of the rubber and then used the press and popped them out. Then took a wire brush and cleaned out the holes. Looks pretty good.

All new bushings going in including diff front and rear mounts.

Recently burnt up my tank cover while moving to much stuff around. Whoops, tossing this one for a new one

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Teaser pic of header mock up for some work we're doing. More on that later.

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Also working on other things, more pics later. I should get some of the car right now actually. It's a shell lol. No engine, transmission, no front or rear suspension, gas tank and lines pulled. Hard to believe it'll be driving in a couple months :)
 

01yellercobra

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I'll be there next weekend. I'm doing all the IRS bushings and I ordered the toe links from FTBR. I told my buddy he gets to burn parts on my car again and he got all excited.
 

gabe1530

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Wow I'm surprised you didn't have the ftbr kit already. Your going to be amazed by the difference.
Great work thus far.
 

MalcolmV8

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Wow I'm surprised you didn't have the ftbr kit already. Your going to be amazed by the difference.
Great work thus far.

Well when I first got the car I cracked the rear diff cover like a lot. Replaced it and installed a brace but then still fought wheel hop. Switched to drag radials full time years ago and wheel hop went away. With soft tires there's no wheel hop. So with no problems in hand the desire to tear the IRS apart and change bushings etc. faded on the back burner and has been there ever since lol.

I'm hoping it improves traction and handling of the rear a little.
 

SlowSVT

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This thread suddenly needs a new title :burnout:

Malcolm, consider a set of Mark Williams steel bearing caps for the diff to replace the aluminum "straps" and I'm sure an FFRP cover is a already on your shopping list. If your more of a road racer than a drag racer a Torson T2R will smooth power transfer to the wheels but no more clutch dumps. I would highly recommend doing the thrust washer mod to your delrin upper and lower A-arm bushings like I did on mine which requires some milling but provides better lateral load carrying capacity of the bushings.

............... just doing my part to assist in depleting your bank account I just love a good build thread :-D
 

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