I have been trying to put my stock k member back for a couple weeks now and I am about ready to throw in the towel. Before removing the k member i made various references up by the top bolts by the spring perches and by the bottom bolts by the subframe connectors. I have leveled the whole car side to side using a laser level and it still isnt changing the results. The lower references are off and the upper references are pretty close. I can flex the kmember through a hole in the spring perch/frame to make the lower references line up but then it throws the upper reference off. I have jack stands up front where the sway bar goes to try to limit the deflection due to the weight of the motor. I have the rear stands on the back of the flsc in front of rear tire. I know the stock k member doesnt have much adjustment but I am at a loss for words on what to do. :shrug: please help!
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- Thread starter Termilvr
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This is a bit confusing. Not sure what the laser level is doing to help.
If I'm reading this correctly It sounds like your trying to do too much at once. Forget the springs and struts for now and just bolt the K-member to the frame rails.
After that you can attached the springs and struts.
If I'm reading this correctly It sounds like your trying to do too much at once. Forget the springs and struts for now and just bolt the K-member to the frame rails.
After that you can attached the springs and struts.
I used the laser level to assist me in leveling the whole car so the frame wouldnt be twisted because the garage floor is on two unlevel slabs. There are no a arms or anything atached to the k member
misspelled from kindle fire
Again I have no idea what the problem is because your first post was confusing. 1 step at a time and we should be able to walk thru this.
Now, are you having problems lining-up the K-member mounting holes? Intall the 4 upper K-member bolts first. The lower 2 have lots of slop and should be easier to line up. Keep the bolts loose so you can move the K member to line everything up.
All the bolts are in, I made reference marks before I took it out originally and I cant get the marks to line up now
misspelled from kindle fire
You mean to tell me this is about getting the bolts to align with marks made before you removed the K-member laser level an all?
What are you trying to achieve? This is a Mustang. What makes you think the factory K-member position is any more accurate than yours. What matters is the location of the spindle and how square they are to one another which is something you have very little control over. The tolerance build-up between those points is frightening.
Finish installing the driveline your "good".
Not bolts but marks made on the k member that transferred over to the body, I figured they would have had it square from the factory so I figured that's they way I would keep it
misspelled from kindle fire
Not bolts but marks made on the k member that transferred over to the body, I figured they would have had it square from the factory so I figured that's they way I would keep it
misspelled from kindle fire
Now I understand what you’re asking.
An SN95 rolled off the assembly line every 93 seconds. The chassis structure was designed to be very forgiving with regard to loose tolerances so it would not cause problems as the line moved. The factory even requested they change the IRS sub-frame mounting bolts from 14 mm to 13 mm for this very reason :nonono: Suspension pick-up points are typically jig drilled after the shell was spot welded together so the mounting points are probably fairly accurate. But when you add up all the tolerance involved it would be pretty frightening. The chassis is pretty flimsy to begin with so any attempt to square the chassis will be somewhat negated. This is no different than any other mass produced chassis structure and is not unique to the Mustang but the car makers are getting better at it with each new generation of cars.
01cobravortech
Banned
:lol:
I have tried putting a jack under the k member to see if it will change anything and it does help the marks near the botttom mounting area come closer but I don't know if that's a good idea to bolt the k member in place with a load on it
misspelled from kindle fire
Forget your marks. The assembly line worker pushed and held the button raising the k-member engine and all up into the frame rails and a machine torqued the 4 upper K-member bolts at once while he was thinking about the up-coming UAW contract negotiations :bored:
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