Modifying an Explorer aluminum cover to fit any 8.8

[Tob]

Thanks guys. I rather enjoyed watching this thing take shape. In fact, I spent a little time today finishing it up.

I used a quality self priming epoxy paint

I'll bet most didn't notice the painter's tape I had in place on those shots. After painting I peeled it off...

I think this shot captures a lot. It is an aesthetic work of art, with man made symmetry via computer modeling and cast into an architectural masterpiece. Ford is doing some superb casting work.:thumbsup:

Regarding the vent hole, this is what Shelby had done to the KR cover. A simple plug, which I believe to be custom made (can't find any application of it ever through Ford Parts and Service).

What Ford installed into the Explorer/Mountaineer covers on the line (the barbed vent is tapered)

It slips into the hole about halfway and then stops, requiring you to drive it home for a 'permanent' installation. I'm holding off, as I still have a number of different ideas as to what I may do.

Regarding hardware, some KR's came equipped with standard, corner-store type, grade 5 bolts and washers

I chose to use the proper Explorer/Mountaineer grade 8, black oxide, integral bolt and washer for fasteners (you need ten, or five packs of two)

I'm sure Steve at Tousley could get the above for less than what I paid.

The gloss black/machined finish of the cover should be a perfect match for the rest of the suspension hardware I'm using...

Along with providing for more clearance between the MM panhard rod and this cover. The FRPP cover is a bit too close for comfort, IMHO...

Tob

 

[oldlugs]

Very cool. It looks sort of alien here...

I'll have to pick up one of these Exploder covers to massage & install on my Bullitt's rear. Thanks again for your help with identifying this cover!

Duane

 

[19COBRA93]

One thing not stated is this should not be considered a replacement for an FRPP, or other axle "girdle". This modified Explorer cover offers no bearing preload which is nearly the whole purpose of a girdle. However, at around $50 for the cover, this isn't bad idea for a budget mod.

 

[Ry_Trapp0]

i saw this over at C-C.com and was wondering if you were gonna post it here, then i noticed that i completely missed it, lol. great mod!

One thing not stated is this should not be considered a replacement for an FRPP, or other axle "girdle". This modified Explorer cover offers no bearing preload which is nearly the whole purpose of a girdle. However, at around $50 for the cover, this isn't bad idea for a budget mod.

how many cars with girdle covers really need them? i mean, most people that are running the kind of power and traction to cause the ring/pinion to deflect are moving straight up to a 9", are they not?

 

[Tob]

...at around $50 for the cover, this isn't bad idea for a budget mod.

Actually, $38 from Steve at Tousley is a bit less than $50.:rockon:
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/9066204-post77.html

That's 1/5th of what I paid for my low profile FRPP cover from Buyfordracing. Proper Explorer bolt hardware changes that fraction, but it is still a fantastic budget mod.

Aside from that, it offers a machined gasket face that is superior to the FRPP cover that should eliminate any chance of leakage. In addition, I think the extra clearance it may offer when using a larger diameter panhard bar is a big plus as well. I only have ~1/4" of clearance between the FRPP cover and MM panhard rod right now and would like more (and I don't like the increased moment effect of aftermarket bar relocating brackets).

The magnetic drain/fill plugs are a plus as well as the fins for cooling.

And I'd have to side with Ry regarding the load bolts. Theoretically, they are a great addition. I've used this type of cover on every Mustang I've ever owned. But I've yet to see bearing cap deflection resulting in a measurable wear increases or failures in 8.8 rears because they didn't have a cover on them with a preload feature. When an 8.8 wants to fail - it fails. I see it similar to a main cap girdle on a 302 - nice to have, but not really a cure for a design that wasn't intended for repeated extreme abuse from the beginning.

Tob

 

[Tob]

I had some time this afternoon so I decided to go ahead and fit the cover. As mentioned previously, clearance between the FRPP cover and my MM panhard bar were just under 1/4".

If you look closely at the above photo, you can also see some gear lube that had weeped from the load bolts. This took place even though I used a Teflon sealant on them. Anyway, I drained the lube and removed the cover. Of note, none of the Permatex bonded to the FRPP cover face. It came off clean, with the RTV sticking to the axle cover face only. I wondered about the extra smooth finish on the face of the FRPP cover when I put it on...

Anyway, before I could bolt on the Explorer cover I had to make up my mind on the vent hole, located at about one o'clock. I decided to tap and plug it. Later, I can always switch to a barbed fitting and use it as a vent to a catch can, etc. Either way, all it took was a quick reaming and then running a pipe tap through it.

You only need to cut about 3/4" of thread

I then spread some Permatex on the new cover and gave it some time to start to set up. While waiting, I put the Explorer cover above the FRPP cover for a comparison shot. The Explorer cover is deeper (which surprised me a bit) which will allow for more lube than the FRPP unit.

Something else I noticed. The Explorer cover is actually ~1/8" 'taller' than the FRPP cover. It is approximate because it all depends on how much of the ribs you sand off. I could have matched the FRPP cover with more sanding, but I did it another way (more later). Once on, the clearance looked as such

Keep in mind that the Maximum Motorsports panhard bar I'm using has a larger diameter than stock, which reduces clearances with any cover. I failed to make note dimensionally of the Explorer cover vs stock.:sleeping:

I snapped off a few shots

Regarding what I did for additional clearance, I offset ground one of the spacers used on the rod end. I then used a galvanized washer that matched what I had ground off and added it to the opposite side of the rod end. This in effect moved the bar closer to the rear bumper, allowing for more room between the bar and the cover. There is still plenty of room for bar articulation with the suspension either under full compression or extension. Look closely at the chassis bracket and you'll see what I did (look at the lower right hand corner, washer on left side of spacer stack, ground spacer is on the right).

I didn't add fluid yet, as it was pretty cold out and I am going to give the RTV some time to cure first. I'll then fill the axle with lube and let you know how much it took to fill this larger cover.

Tob

 

[Hissssss]

Tob, thanks again for the great write up, I ordered mine the other day and just got it back. It is going to be my next project, thanks again.

 

[P49Y-CY]

nice job! :beer:

 

[70SCJ]

I'm waiting on mine to arrive and then I'll be re-reading this thread before the install.
Thanks

 

[Ry_Trapp0]

nice write up tob, looks great!

 

[Tob]

Thanks all. I'm looking forward to seeing others do it too. There is no greater satisfaction than doing something like this, all on your own.

Good luck!

 

[Spawn]

got mine ordered and there were only 2 left

 

[Spawn]

This is a great mod it should aid in cooling and also extend the lifespan by collecting the fine metal that will be collected at the drain plug. Don't get me started on the extra fluid and the cooling fins. woohoo!!

 

[6-Speed]

Tob - nice write up. How much gear oil did it take to fill up?

Oh I see you intend to report later.

 

[Spawn]

Anyone know if there is Friction Modifier in a GT 500 rear end?

I was thinking on using royal purple when I do this and if I need to get a bottle of friction modifier like I did in my 06 GT.

 

[70SCJ]

Anyone know if there is Friction Modifier in a GT 500 rear end?

I was thinking on using royal purple when I do this and if I need to get a bottle of friction modifier like I did in my 06 GT.

I believe there is friction modifier in the rearend.

On another note, my new cover has arrived and is currently undergoing modification. I'm hoping the extra fluid and cooling will help with my slow speed sharp turn groan..

 

[Tob]

From the Owner's manual supplement...

Regarding friction modifier, pay specific attention to both paragraphs related to note #2...

Tob

 

[6-Speed]

Anyone know if there is Friction Modifier in a GT 500 rear end?

I was thinking on using royal purple when I do this and if I need to get a bottle of friction modifier like I did in my 06 GT.

Royal Purple Max Gear oil already contains friction modifiers. I use the RP gear oil and did not add any friction modifier.

 

[Hissssss]

Royal Purple Max Gear oil already contains friction modifiers. I use the RP gear oil and did not add any friction modifier.

When I did my 3.73s I used Royal Purple Gear oil but I still put in the friction modifier. Its cheap, like $5.00 or so.

 

[Tob]

I finally got the opportunity to fill the axle with lubricant. I picked up three quarts from my local Ford dealer, along with 4 ounces of friction modifier from them as well. Be forewarned - the synthetic lube from Ford is a bit expensive (~ $18 per quart). You can find synthetic 75W-140 from a few vendors at a better price (AutoZone, etc).

Make sure to use a quality thread sealant on all the threaded plugs and you shouldn't have any leaks down the road. Another essential item is a quality suction gun. I bought mine about six years ago from AutoZone. I've only used it three other times, but it is worth every penny. Forget trying to tip the quart container while holding it in the air. There simply isn't the room, unless you raised the body and then let the axle housing droop way down. I had elevated my four wheels by the same amount, along with the axle housing being supported at the factory ride height relative to the tires. I was exacting at this step so that I could get an accurate assessment as to fill capacity, along with comparing the fill plug elevation of the Explorer cover to that of the factory fill plug at the front of the housing.

I could have just installed the upper pipe plug on the cover and filled the housing from the original fill point at the front, but I wanted to see if the Explorer upper (fill) plug would work. I set up a Milwaukee digital inspection camera so that I could watch the front fill point while I added lube from the rear.

A really neat tool.

Obviously, two quarts of gear lube (and another 4 ounces of friction modifier) are no longer enough. What surprised me was that lube started to ooze from the upper opening of the Explorer cover before anything came out of the factory fill hole. It was close, but after closing up the cover, I was able to add approximately five ounces more. If the Explorer has a more 'nose up' pinion angle, I could see the two being a match - but not here.

So all in all, the deeper Explorer cover adds another 1/2 quart to the overall capacity. This, along with the aluminum cover and its cooling fins, should allow for lower temperatures within the housing. Obviously, a good thing.

A couple of other points of interest:

- The label on the back of Ford's synthetic gear lubricant. Does a noisy gear level some good...

- Regarding tapping the hole in the Explorer cover that was originally used for a tapered barb fitting for the factory ventilation system, I had forgotten to provide numbers for both the tap and for the drill size.

The above shows a 1/4" - 18 NPT tap along with the matching 7/16" drill bit I used to allow a 1/4" socket headed pipe plug to close up the hole. The aluminum cover drills like butter and tapping took seconds. You can find the tap and the bit on the shelves at your local Home Depot.

This concludes my efforts with this project.

Tob