I didn't get much response on my local forums so thought I'd repost here and see if anyone has thoughts.
(Sorry for the oversized pics, I don't have the tools to resize them with me right now.)
I'm getting closer and closer to being prepared for turbo power. However, I'm a little worried about ending up with a mismatched combo. I've been trying to learn as much as I can but I feel a bit lost.
So below is an overview of my setup. Please give me feedback on anything I need to consider that I haven't yet.
I had pictures from the previous owner but I had never opened up the intake (HCI shortrunner with imrc deletes built in) myself. I was amazed how clean it was for a b-headed intake. I have a home made catch can on it and it seems to be doing a great job. It's been jet hot coated so maybe that helps too.
Here's a photo from stiegemeier's site that shows stock vs accufab vs dragon.
The inlet measures right at 2.5" x 5.25". I'm going to have Brian (aka Posi) port the opening oval to match a dragon TB.
This car currently has the 96 cams in it. Should I stick with them or are there any recommendations on something more aggressive?
Here are the specs on the b-heads that were given to me by the previous owner:
port matched to the lower intake and exhaust and cleaned up a bit.
chromoly retainers
1mm bigger manley valves with valve job
new valve guides
comp cam beehive springs
The teksid block is ported 20 over. It has manley h-beams and mahle pistons and is around 9:1 CR.
In all honesty, I probably won't be taking it to the track that often because the track is too far away. So I want to start with a reasonable power level for the street with the option of going crazy with it later if I want to.
Currently I have 60# injectors in the box waiting to go in. I believe it's the factory fuel pump. I was hoping to get away with a 255 in the tank and a 255 inline with the stock lines/rails for a while but I'm not sure where that puts me as far as limiting boost. It seems like about 8-10 pounds but I guess until I data log and tune that is pure speculation. Would new rails without replacing the lines get me any further? In one of the photos you can see it looks like they made custom brackets for the stock rails. I'm not even sure how I'll bolt aftermarket rails up. I might have to get brackets fabbed up for them.
Are there any other weak links I need to address that I've skipped over?
* I've got a BA-3000 MAF.
* Rear end is built with 31 spline axles and an auburn diff. Swapping the 4.30s for 3.55s when I do the turbo)
* The t45 is obviously a weak link. I'm hoping if I'm easy on it and not power shifting or launching with slicks it will hold up for a little while longer which I decide what to do for a transmission. I've bounced between manual and auto in my head quite a bit. I know the auto would be better for drag racing but this car is really setup more for corner carving and for me, the manual does a better job for that purpose.
* I've got a fluidyne radiator to keep things cool.
* I'm going to put a wideband in it with a full time gauge to keep an eye on AF for safety.
(Sorry for the oversized pics, I don't have the tools to resize them with me right now.)
I'm getting closer and closer to being prepared for turbo power. However, I'm a little worried about ending up with a mismatched combo. I've been trying to learn as much as I can but I feel a bit lost.
So below is an overview of my setup. Please give me feedback on anything I need to consider that I haven't yet.
I had pictures from the previous owner but I had never opened up the intake (HCI shortrunner with imrc deletes built in) myself. I was amazed how clean it was for a b-headed intake. I have a home made catch can on it and it seems to be doing a great job. It's been jet hot coated so maybe that helps too.
Here's a photo from stiegemeier's site that shows stock vs accufab vs dragon.
The inlet measures right at 2.5" x 5.25". I'm going to have Brian (aka Posi) port the opening oval to match a dragon TB.
This car currently has the 96 cams in it. Should I stick with them or are there any recommendations on something more aggressive?
Here are the specs on the b-heads that were given to me by the previous owner:
port matched to the lower intake and exhaust and cleaned up a bit.
chromoly retainers
1mm bigger manley valves with valve job
new valve guides
comp cam beehive springs
The teksid block is ported 20 over. It has manley h-beams and mahle pistons and is around 9:1 CR.
In all honesty, I probably won't be taking it to the track that often because the track is too far away. So I want to start with a reasonable power level for the street with the option of going crazy with it later if I want to.
Currently I have 60# injectors in the box waiting to go in. I believe it's the factory fuel pump. I was hoping to get away with a 255 in the tank and a 255 inline with the stock lines/rails for a while but I'm not sure where that puts me as far as limiting boost. It seems like about 8-10 pounds but I guess until I data log and tune that is pure speculation. Would new rails without replacing the lines get me any further? In one of the photos you can see it looks like they made custom brackets for the stock rails. I'm not even sure how I'll bolt aftermarket rails up. I might have to get brackets fabbed up for them.
Are there any other weak links I need to address that I've skipped over?
* I've got a BA-3000 MAF.
* Rear end is built with 31 spline axles and an auburn diff. Swapping the 4.30s for 3.55s when I do the turbo)
* The t45 is obviously a weak link. I'm hoping if I'm easy on it and not power shifting or launching with slicks it will hold up for a little while longer which I decide what to do for a transmission. I've bounced between manual and auto in my head quite a bit. I know the auto would be better for drag racing but this car is really setup more for corner carving and for me, the manual does a better job for that purpose.
* I've got a fluidyne radiator to keep things cool.
* I'm going to put a wideband in it with a full time gauge to keep an eye on AF for safety.
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