I struggled with gear lockout for a short time and did not want to buy what everyone was trying to tell me that syncros were bad, so I decided to think about it more and research more and fix by logic.
Maybe this may help some on here as well, or it may be common sense to some, but I keep seeing people keep saying the same thing about rebuilding the trans without analyzing all the data properly
Things to keep in mind when thinking about syncros:
1. Syncros do not lock you out of gear only at WOT. They will grind/scratch all the time.
2. If you power through the lockout, you will break the syncros and cause syncro problems for yourself. If it locks you out, ease out of it and save them until you correct the problem!
3. Shifting through wheel spin is a good way to kill your syncros as well. Dont bang gears when spinning.
Things that will cause the problem:
1. Drivetrain geometry affects shifting with a remote shifter
2. Mounting an aftermarket shifter like the MGW to the body supports the shifter, but not anything else.
3. Your motor and trans torque under high load now from above, but the shifter is bolted to the car not moving. Now you get lockout.
Fixes I did to correct the problem which has been confirmed on MULTIPLE clean passes on the car now and improved overall notchiness:
1. I corrected my drivetrain geometry issues with an adjustable upper control arm as well as adjustable braces at the trans. My car has a 1 piece driveshaft and had a non adjustable UCA which was causing some binding I think.
2. CHE K Member brace with Adjustable TQ limiters to keep the trans aligned and solid from any movement under load.
3. WOT box will fix the issue as well ,but a bandaid to be honest.
Here is a quick video I made discussing the CHE TQ limiters as well as the reasons why and showing install.
Not everyone may like my style of doing things or saying things, but I feel the need to pass on info when I find things work, or are a waste of time.
Maybe this may help some on here as well, or it may be common sense to some, but I keep seeing people keep saying the same thing about rebuilding the trans without analyzing all the data properly
Things to keep in mind when thinking about syncros:
1. Syncros do not lock you out of gear only at WOT. They will grind/scratch all the time.
2. If you power through the lockout, you will break the syncros and cause syncro problems for yourself. If it locks you out, ease out of it and save them until you correct the problem!
3. Shifting through wheel spin is a good way to kill your syncros as well. Dont bang gears when spinning.
Things that will cause the problem:
1. Drivetrain geometry affects shifting with a remote shifter
2. Mounting an aftermarket shifter like the MGW to the body supports the shifter, but not anything else.
3. Your motor and trans torque under high load now from above, but the shifter is bolted to the car not moving. Now you get lockout.
Fixes I did to correct the problem which has been confirmed on MULTIPLE clean passes on the car now and improved overall notchiness:
1. I corrected my drivetrain geometry issues with an adjustable upper control arm as well as adjustable braces at the trans. My car has a 1 piece driveshaft and had a non adjustable UCA which was causing some binding I think.
2. CHE K Member brace with Adjustable TQ limiters to keep the trans aligned and solid from any movement under load.
3. WOT box will fix the issue as well ,but a bandaid to be honest.
Here is a quick video I made discussing the CHE TQ limiters as well as the reasons why and showing install.
Not everyone may like my style of doing things or saying things, but I feel the need to pass on info when I find things work, or are a waste of time.