Install the UPR Triple hook and firewall adjuster last night. The following should help those who have done it and remind those who have, the fun they had.:thumbsup:
Here's some simple directions:
1.) Make multiple copies of downloaded instructions off internet since UPR didn't send any with the products, cuss UPR
2.) Take above mentioned instructions and line your bird cage, puppy pen, or kitchen shelves as you please, your choice
3.) Search for Steeda instructions on internet
4.) Read Steeda instructions
5.) Remove drivers seat and lay a thick blanket on floor to keep the front seat bolts from gouging thru your ribs
6.) Pop the cotter pins out of both pivot sleeves, then take a large flat head screwdriver to remove stock quadrant
7.) Hit head on bottom of dash as you jerk from fear of springs flying around
8.) Place band-aid on thumb after section of skin is removed
9.) Place ~1/2" thickness of 1/2" washers on both pivot points that should have come with quadrant
10.) Install quadrant and replace cotter pins
11.) Pull plastic coupler from firewall in engine compartment
12.) Stare at it in bewilderement as you ponder WTF Ford was thinking when they over engineered that piece
13.) Use a small socket to remove the two screws holding in the industrial strength flange
14.) Pry at over engineered coupling to remove the star washer from hell on said industrial strength flange
15.) Flinch incessantily as screwdriver wisked mere millimeters by palm several times in what seems like a vain attempt to remove the star washer that is jesting your ego
16.) Laugh hysterically when the star washer finally breaks and you can remove the industrial strength flange
17.) Use some side cutters and work at snipping the plastic piece that is still attached to the clutch cable
18.) Remove rubber bushing from end of clutch cable once the last plastic piece of the coupling jigsaw is off
19.) Wonder why the metal sleeve UPR provided doesn't fit over the end of the cable
20.) Try to FORCE the metal sleeve of the hardened plastic end on the clutch cable
21.) Throw the metal sleeve across the garage and cuss UPR
22.) Test fit the naked plastic end into the firewall adjuster
23.) Take back piece off of firewall adjuster and screw it into the firewall
24.) Cuss UPR when you can't tighten the bottom screw because coil cover on the cylinder head in the way
25.) Remove coil over and finally tighten bottom screw
26.) Replace coil cover
27.) Try to screw adjuster into firewall bracket
28.) Cuss UPR for making it so long it won't fit with firewall bracket screwed in
29.) Remove screws while cussing UPR
30.) Forget that the coil cover has to be removed to get to bottom screw, cuss UPR again
31.) Remove coil cover, cuss UPR
32.) Remove bottom screw while cussing UPR
33.) Screw entire assembly together once off of firewall
34.) Realize screws will not screw in unless the adjuster is backed out, cuss UPR
35.) Try for 5 minutes to get BOTH screws in but finally give up on bottom screw, cuss UPR
36.) Slip cable thru firewall adjuster
37.) Slide back under dash to connect to quadrant
38.) Realize that it will only hook on the second hook
39.) Ponder why
40.) Remember Steeda's instructions
41.) Jack up car to loosen clutch cable from clutch fork
42.) Hook cable on third hook with adjuster screwed almost all the way in
43.) Hook cable back onto clutch fork
44.) Wonder why cable is slack
45.) Realize cable came off hook
46.) Call fiance to come out to garage to hold tension on clutch pedal
47.) Hook cable back onto clutch fork
48.) Start playing with adjusting screw while depressing clutch
49.) Re-install drivers seat and take for test drive
50.) Forgive UPR's ineptness in providing decent instructions and learn how to drive car again
Took ~ 2 hours from start to finish. Entire job should only take 20-30 minutes now. I will be putting on my SVO. The stiff as FOCK clutch on the Cobra feels like my Spec Stage III on my SVO, smooth as butter and nowhere near as stiff. I can't imagine what it will do on my SVO, should make the clutch SUPER LIGHT.
:thumbsup:
It's how the car SHOULD have come.
Note to UPR:
Please provide some DETAILED instructions worth more than the paper they are printed on
Here's some simple directions:
1.) Make multiple copies of downloaded instructions off internet since UPR didn't send any with the products, cuss UPR
2.) Take above mentioned instructions and line your bird cage, puppy pen, or kitchen shelves as you please, your choice
3.) Search for Steeda instructions on internet
4.) Read Steeda instructions
5.) Remove drivers seat and lay a thick blanket on floor to keep the front seat bolts from gouging thru your ribs
6.) Pop the cotter pins out of both pivot sleeves, then take a large flat head screwdriver to remove stock quadrant
7.) Hit head on bottom of dash as you jerk from fear of springs flying around
8.) Place band-aid on thumb after section of skin is removed
9.) Place ~1/2" thickness of 1/2" washers on both pivot points that should have come with quadrant
10.) Install quadrant and replace cotter pins
11.) Pull plastic coupler from firewall in engine compartment
12.) Stare at it in bewilderement as you ponder WTF Ford was thinking when they over engineered that piece
13.) Use a small socket to remove the two screws holding in the industrial strength flange
14.) Pry at over engineered coupling to remove the star washer from hell on said industrial strength flange
15.) Flinch incessantily as screwdriver wisked mere millimeters by palm several times in what seems like a vain attempt to remove the star washer that is jesting your ego
16.) Laugh hysterically when the star washer finally breaks and you can remove the industrial strength flange
17.) Use some side cutters and work at snipping the plastic piece that is still attached to the clutch cable
18.) Remove rubber bushing from end of clutch cable once the last plastic piece of the coupling jigsaw is off
19.) Wonder why the metal sleeve UPR provided doesn't fit over the end of the cable
20.) Try to FORCE the metal sleeve of the hardened plastic end on the clutch cable
21.) Throw the metal sleeve across the garage and cuss UPR
22.) Test fit the naked plastic end into the firewall adjuster
23.) Take back piece off of firewall adjuster and screw it into the firewall
24.) Cuss UPR when you can't tighten the bottom screw because coil cover on the cylinder head in the way
25.) Remove coil over and finally tighten bottom screw
26.) Replace coil cover
27.) Try to screw adjuster into firewall bracket
28.) Cuss UPR for making it so long it won't fit with firewall bracket screwed in
29.) Remove screws while cussing UPR
30.) Forget that the coil cover has to be removed to get to bottom screw, cuss UPR again
31.) Remove coil cover, cuss UPR
32.) Remove bottom screw while cussing UPR
33.) Screw entire assembly together once off of firewall
34.) Realize screws will not screw in unless the adjuster is backed out, cuss UPR
35.) Try for 5 minutes to get BOTH screws in but finally give up on bottom screw, cuss UPR
36.) Slip cable thru firewall adjuster
37.) Slide back under dash to connect to quadrant
38.) Realize that it will only hook on the second hook
39.) Ponder why
40.) Remember Steeda's instructions
41.) Jack up car to loosen clutch cable from clutch fork
42.) Hook cable on third hook with adjuster screwed almost all the way in
43.) Hook cable back onto clutch fork
44.) Wonder why cable is slack
45.) Realize cable came off hook
46.) Call fiance to come out to garage to hold tension on clutch pedal
47.) Hook cable back onto clutch fork
48.) Start playing with adjusting screw while depressing clutch
49.) Re-install drivers seat and take for test drive
50.) Forgive UPR's ineptness in providing decent instructions and learn how to drive car again
Took ~ 2 hours from start to finish. Entire job should only take 20-30 minutes now. I will be putting on my SVO. The stiff as FOCK clutch on the Cobra feels like my Spec Stage III on my SVO, smooth as butter and nowhere near as stiff. I can't imagine what it will do on my SVO, should make the clutch SUPER LIGHT.
:thumbsup:
It's how the car SHOULD have come.
Note to UPR:
Please provide some DETAILED instructions worth more than the paper they are printed on
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