Mystic is under the knife for mods.
- Thread starter 04MystiCobra
- Start date
Mine are 10s. I think you really need 11" for 335. I'll be looking for a second set or rear wheels when the time comes.
Greg, have you changed your internals already?
Hell no! I'm not changin chit till it breaks! I'm not going to be runnin 190mph anytime soon or constatly drag racing. I rarley need the power I already have! The spray is just in case. Will rarely get used. I still dont have drag radials anyway. I know it can break and all that other bs but with the intial cost of the car I refuse to spend all that money "just in case". F that! I'm not rich! If it happens then so be it. But I sleep just fine with the stock forged stuff as is and I give her a checkup all the time and 94 octane all the time. :beer:
On a side note. My install is going slow. Still need to get a BAP since that ahole screwed me. It will be close.
On a side note. My install is going slow. Still need to get a BAP since that ahole screwed me. It will be close.
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Tru_Ice
Banned
bultaco370 said:
I've got your Tru Ice right here! lol
What's up guys? Seems like everytime I leave and come back to this forum you all are modding like crazy. What's w/ those 2 Saleens did they every get numbers?
Tru_Ice said:
Dyno day coming up in late FEB it looks like! in Olympia! bring that vette down and make a few pulls! the guy that owns the dyno is a chevy guy! :thumbsup:
The red Mach 1 you raced last year when your tune was screwd up might give you a run this year! N/A still but a little more engine work and he is getting a custom tune! :thumbsup:
I agree, you should bring down that vette. There is a guy running around town with Mongoose 500 stickers on his car (C5). If he has those heads/cams (Mongoose 500) his car should be pretty quick, I haven't got the chance to try him yet. I am assuming he is a Ft. Lewis guy because he has Texas plates and military stickers in the window.
I am not sure which saleen you are talking about? Mine made 450rwhp on 8psi (stock block). Work is sending me to San Diego for three months (June-Aug). It will stink missing the good weather here (not that I will be suffereing too much in So Cal - on the beach!). Good news though is I will be ordering my engine/tranny/other goodies when I get back!
Sorry to run away with the thread there. Those Cobra engines are pretty good (as far as holding power). I would think you should be ok with a good tune....at least for a little while.
I am not sure which saleen you are talking about? Mine made 450rwhp on 8psi (stock block). Work is sending me to San Diego for three months (June-Aug). It will stink missing the good weather here (not that I will be suffereing too much in So Cal - on the beach!). Good news though is I will be ordering my engine/tranny/other goodies when I get back!
Sorry to run away with the thread there. Those Cobra engines are pretty good (as far as holding power). I would think you should be ok with a good tune....at least for a little while.
Tru_Ice
Banned
bultaco370 said:
I'd love to go, but I'll be in Chicago on company business and won't be back until late May. But I will be needing some dyno tuning when I get back so let me no if you all set something up for then.
That's be fun to go up against him, but I assure you it won't be a repeat from last time. We tested the messed up tune, and since MTI had moved the tables around Ellis was changing different parameters so I was running w/ 340 something (can't remeber the dyno reading exactly) rwhp instead of the 400. I heard he was getting a cam and a few other things for his ride, it should be interesting. Hopefully my tranny will stay intact after this round of mods. My goal for mods this yr was ........ BETTER GAS MILEAGE. :-D We'll c tho.
So how's that whipple coming along?
Tru_Ice
Banned
01Saleen said:
Nah don't worry about that Mongoose Vette. Mongosse is suppose to be a specialized tuner like Leingenfelter, but it's an overated company. The 500 is supposed to stand for the upgrade level, it's nothing more than another overpriced head and cam package probably at ~420-430rwhp if it's an M6. With a good driver, and DRs probably good for mid 11s.
anthony aka shangsta just got cam and ported heads
with magnapacks
he expects 360rwhp
with magnapacks
he expects 360rwhp
Gregs Stock internals will last a longggg Time. As for The saleen it hasnt been dynoed yet either. Next weekend, the Centerforce and T-56 Are goin in. Then Dyno Time.
Good info on Mongoose. I really didn't have a clue. Aren't the heads AFR or something???? I looked it up when I saw the stickers the first time, but I don't really remember that much about it. I think the site I read was claiming 425 rwhp. That isn't bad for a C5. Not sure what exhaust he has, but it sounds good.
Im seeing this term "mongoose" on Modularpowerhouses site as well. I dont understand the term.
Tru_Ice
Banned
mean saleen said:
Mongoose, is just another tuner package. Just like Mallet.
mean saleen said:
Not above 500rwhp (let alone 550) they won't. Wishful thinking.
Pictures when the mystic is done!
Funny how ideas go. Back then(5.0 days) the hyper pistons couldnt do anything over 350-400, so they said. Had mine well over 550whp along with the rest of the country. I really think peoples ideas of whats safe are a bit overboard. All of a sudden forged internals from the factory are not good enough. Common. Not saying it isnt smart to upgrade but you're not always pushing your max. Been pullied for a while now(15,000+). Thats longer than allot of Cobras have in total milage! I guess my clutch will last longer than my pistons,...NOT!
Better safe then sorry. Of course, I still have my stock (stock GT) internals seeing 450 rwhp....tick tick tick.....
I think a lot of it has to do with how you drive it. Of course, once again, I probably drive mine as hard as you could without taking it to the strip.
I think a lot of it has to do with how you drive it. Of course, once again, I probably drive mine as hard as you could without taking it to the strip.
Sure, it could last. But don't be expecting it to last like it does factory (although I know you don't).
It's not the forged parts themselves that are the problems, it's the clearances. The factory tolerance on the forged pistons is around .0002-.0005. You read that right- not two to five thousandths, but two to five TEN-thousandths. That might be ok for a factory hypereutectic piston, but for a forged piston that expands at a much greater right, it's simply too tight. It was done to reduce any piston knock upon startup in cold conditions, which it does quite beautifully, but when you start to increase the load upon the piston by upping the power output, it's going to generate more heat than from the factory. When that happens, the piston expands more than normal, and slowly because to wear off the teflon coating on the skirts, and eventually it will rub off entirely, heat up much higher, expand greater, and bam. Seen it happen and have rebuilt a number of cobra's this happened to. Ask anyone who builds modular motors consistently and you'll get the same response.
The issue isn't that forging isn't good enough- just that the tolerances are too tight. the tolerances are made for quiet startup, not high performance, and there inlies the problem. Nitrous will exacerbate the problem at an exponential rate with the higher combustion heat and pressure. I'm not saying don't do it by any means, just that you shouldn't expect longevity.
The entire thing is more aimed at mean- it's just a gigantic misconception that these motors are bullet proof by any means. They are stronger than the predecessors, but still have their shortcomings.
It's not the forged parts themselves that are the problems, it's the clearances. The factory tolerance on the forged pistons is around .0002-.0005. You read that right- not two to five thousandths, but two to five TEN-thousandths. That might be ok for a factory hypereutectic piston, but for a forged piston that expands at a much greater right, it's simply too tight. It was done to reduce any piston knock upon startup in cold conditions, which it does quite beautifully, but when you start to increase the load upon the piston by upping the power output, it's going to generate more heat than from the factory. When that happens, the piston expands more than normal, and slowly because to wear off the teflon coating on the skirts, and eventually it will rub off entirely, heat up much higher, expand greater, and bam. Seen it happen and have rebuilt a number of cobra's this happened to. Ask anyone who builds modular motors consistently and you'll get the same response.
The issue isn't that forging isn't good enough- just that the tolerances are too tight. the tolerances are made for quiet startup, not high performance, and there inlies the problem. Nitrous will exacerbate the problem at an exponential rate with the higher combustion heat and pressure. I'm not saying don't do it by any means, just that you shouldn't expect longevity.
The entire thing is more aimed at mean- it's just a gigantic misconception that these motors are bullet proof by any means. They are stronger than the predecessors, but still have their shortcomings.
There is a huge diff between the 2 motor of course. I'm just referring to the idea behind changing parts. I'll break it before I have swap things out. How will I ever truely know how many miles you can go on the stock stuff? If I were pushing 700+ with twin turbos on a consistant basis then I'd do it but I'm not. Again. I'm not going to be pushing all that power all the time. 99.99% of the time I'll have the same power as I do right now. I sort of like the idea that I can go 3-5 years on a stock block with X amount of power. Did it in my last car and when it came time to rebuild I put all new stock stuff back in. $375 for new rods, pistons, crank, ring and bearings and install was done by me. Those days are gone but I still like the idea. Afterall I'm still at the mercy of my wallet! :beer: :thumbsup:
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