Ok so I have right at 2000.00's to play with and would like to get the best bang for my bucks. I also want to take any advice from ya'll with experiance. The tried this and didnt like its that can save me money. This is already done. Smaller Pulley, uncatted X Pipe. Here is what I want. Tuner since the last owner kept it, Lowering Springs, Carbon Fiber Hood Vent, Short Throw Shifter, Coolant tank for the Intercooler, CAI, and possibly a better Throttle body. If you guys know of something I am missing as far as minor bolt ons go please let me know. Basically I am looking for what you guys have seen to have the best HP gains, what to stay away from, and what you have done and loved.
Need advice on Modding my 2012 GT 500
- Thread starter yosemiddysam
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Lower control arms, relocation brackets, adjustable panhard bar, better tires out back. Vmp heat exchanger is a MUST! You be surprised how quickly you get heat soaked with just a pulley. Jlt intake and TB will add some noticeable power. I would wait on shifter unless you got a second gear grind. 2011 and up have factory short throw.
Which Throttle body do you recommend?
i don't think you need a TB with your mod list, if you had a larger supercharger on the car i would get the Cobra Jet one, but i would get a 10% Innovators West Crank Pulley which will really help pick up some power, a tuner, a JLT Cold Air, and a heat exchanger. Then get your hood vent or w.e you wanted.
Your car has a smaller pulley, with an un-known Tune?? I would stay out of it until you have it checked on a Dyno. Figure a new SCT Tuner and Tune from Van at Revan or BJ at VMP. New Heat Exchanger with Fans will help. You can lower the rear only with a pair of H/R R. Springs and an Adj. Panhard Bar. It will sit level. If you keep the stock Cai, order a Ford Racing Resonator Delete and a Airaid Non-oiled Blue or Red Filter. Enjoy the ride...
IMO I wouldn't add power unless you get an aftermarket heat exchanger. I just got mine and wished I had gotten it first. Makes a huge difference. Wait on the throttle body.
Ok so so far I can wait on the T Body, Get a better Heat Exchanger and tank, I should have added that I have the intake reso delet already.....didnt really count it as a mod lol. I need brands and such though....which is best. Will be getting the JLT Carbon Fiber (theme) CAI. Which tuner is best? Is anyone running the latest and greatest x cal?
Sorry but the Carbon Fiber Hood Vent will be in the first order....I hate how cheap the factory one looks. Has anyone changed out the shifter for an aftermarket one and was it worth it?
IMO...
Carbon fiber hood vent:??:
Approx $2000
1) Dual Fan Heat exchanger (CR)
2) 170 reische T-stat
3) SCT 3 , quality tune, 1 step colder plugs
4) MGW Shifter
5) Mobil 1 trans oil change
Will look good on the Grabber Blue though.
Barton?
Yes Barton shifter, came out about 1 to 2 years ago for the stangs, great new shifter, look and feel are excellent, I highly recommend it.
heat Exchanger -
LCA's and relocation brackets
UCA and mount
Adj Panhard and support
Lowering Springs
That will pretty much eat up 2K. And those are the foundation for everything else you will do to the car. I based my modification plan on conversations with Van@Revan Racing. He has not steered me wrong so far. Other's have had just as good of luck with other Vendors. Bottom line, call around and find a vendor or local speed shop that you can get a good rapport with, and develop a plan. Short of having VERY deep pockets, having a long term strategy will save you money on wasted upgrades, and allow you to build the car in stages, where each stage furthers the modifications done in the steps before.
This is what I did and now I have a very well rounded car.
Also once you get this done, be on the lookout on the Marketplace here at SVTPP. There are some great deals to be had. TB's, CAI, SC 's, just about everything you will want to add is up for sale at one time of another.
Lastly, enjoy the car and the modification process. It is expensive, but worth every damn penny of it.
LCA's and relocation brackets
UCA and mount
Adj Panhard and support
Lowering Springs
That will pretty much eat up 2K. And those are the foundation for everything else you will do to the car. I based my modification plan on conversations with Van@Revan Racing. He has not steered me wrong so far. Other's have had just as good of luck with other Vendors. Bottom line, call around and find a vendor or local speed shop that you can get a good rapport with, and develop a plan. Short of having VERY deep pockets, having a long term strategy will save you money on wasted upgrades, and allow you to build the car in stages, where each stage furthers the modifications done in the steps before.
This is what I did and now I have a very well rounded car.
Also once you get this done, be on the lookout on the Marketplace here at SVTPP. There are some great deals to be had. TB's, CAI, SC 's, just about everything you will want to add is up for sale at one time of another.
Lastly, enjoy the car and the modification process. It is expensive, but worth every damn penny of it.
The first thing I did to my car was threw a TVS on it, gutted the cats and had it tuned. I then added lowering springs, Bobs LCA's, BMR panhard. I was happy with how the car ran and drove but it was lacking one key feature, traction. I had no problem breaking the factory goodyears loose at anything under 80 mph.
So last weekend (18 months of ownership) I installed FRPP relocation brackets, UPR adj. UCA, DSS 1pc DS.
What a difference that made. From a 45 roll I roll hard into 2nd gear, be WOT by 5K rpm, and 8/10 times it will stick, even with the factory Goodyear G2's.
If I had to start over, I would've done tires and suspension first. I skipped adding a pulley to the eaton because I knew I would blower swap it, just as I did with my '04.
So last weekend (18 months of ownership) I installed FRPP relocation brackets, UPR adj. UCA, DSS 1pc DS.
What a difference that made. From a 45 roll I roll hard into 2nd gear, be WOT by 5K rpm, and 8/10 times it will stick, even with the factory Goodyear G2's.
If I had to start over, I would've done tires and suspension first. I skipped adding a pulley to the eaton because I knew I would blower swap it, just as I did with my '04.
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I wouldn't spend 25% of my budget on a hood vent. My hood vent looked sunfaded so I painted it with satin trim paint and looks good now rather than cheap grainy plastic.
FYI, I recently had a warranty claim denied on my transmission. They blamed it on my aftermarket shifter.
You can always do a hydrodipped hood vent to save some cash. Looks the same, half the price.
I would suggest that you build the car to handle power in the future.
First, buy a hand held tuner (SCT 3000) and a quality tune... protect your brand new investment. John Lund and Justin Starkey are the two most used and knowledgable tuners in this community. Some people swear by one or the other. They are both great tuners, Justin at VMP would be much easier to get in touch with since John is very busy and hard to get updates from.
Upgrade your Heat Exchanger... C&R from Revan Racing, VMP from VMP, or AFCO from VMP or AFCO. Those are the three that everyone uses. The C&R is the tried and true of the three. The others have either had problems or are very new and somewhat unproven in the consumer market. They may be slightly larger than the C&R but most of that size is covered up under the bumper anyway. Its a very small difference even when it seems like a lot on paper.
Suspension upgrades...
Lower and Upper control arms, Relocation brackets, along with an adjustable panhard bar and maybe some lowering springs if you want. There are countless brands out there. Be warned that you get what you pay for. If you want the best go with BMR suspension products. And stay away from the solid heim joints unless you plan to race all the time.
Thats about $2000 worth of mods. However, you can do what a lot of people do and head over the the market forums and see if something you can use is up for sale at a discounted price. Nothing wrong with a slightly used part that can save you more cash for other mods.
As for the shifters (MGW or Barton), they are both great units. I went with the MGW because i could adjust my throw to my liking. And that i got the shifter, stick, and ball of my choice for the same price as what it cost to purchase a barton with only a stick. Ohh and MGW sells liscensed Shelby logo shifter balls that will fit directly to their optional handle.
I would suggest that you build the car to handle power in the future.
First, buy a hand held tuner (SCT 3000) and a quality tune... protect your brand new investment. John Lund and Justin Starkey are the two most used and knowledgable tuners in this community. Some people swear by one or the other. They are both great tuners, Justin at VMP would be much easier to get in touch with since John is very busy and hard to get updates from.
Upgrade your Heat Exchanger... C&R from Revan Racing, VMP from VMP, or AFCO from VMP or AFCO. Those are the three that everyone uses. The C&R is the tried and true of the three. The others have either had problems or are very new and somewhat unproven in the consumer market. They may be slightly larger than the C&R but most of that size is covered up under the bumper anyway. Its a very small difference even when it seems like a lot on paper.
Suspension upgrades...
Lower and Upper control arms, Relocation brackets, along with an adjustable panhard bar and maybe some lowering springs if you want. There are countless brands out there. Be warned that you get what you pay for. If you want the best go with BMR suspension products. And stay away from the solid heim joints unless you plan to race all the time.
Thats about $2000 worth of mods. However, you can do what a lot of people do and head over the the market forums and see if something you can use is up for sale at a discounted price. Nothing wrong with a slightly used part that can save you more cash for other mods.
As for the shifters (MGW or Barton), they are both great units. I went with the MGW because i could adjust my throw to my liking. And that i got the shifter, stick, and ball of my choice for the same price as what it cost to purchase a barton with only a stick. Ohh and MGW sells liscensed Shelby logo shifter balls that will fit directly to their optional handle.
After installing UMI upper and lower arms , the car hook real good. No more fish tale. Even with 4.10 gears. Check out Summitracing.com . Fast shipping and low prices !
+1 on all of these exept I would use amsoil, the cf hood vent does make the car look significantly better. I got mine from lethal for around 225 I think and it is a worth while mod. A bigger cai on a 11/12 car is a complete waste of money as it has a cai stock. You will see an almost zero power difference until you put a bigger blower on. The resonator delete and airaid filter is all you need on a stock blower car.
$2000 down payment on your new KB 3.6 and the true fun will begin.
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