Need advice on my car buying decision.

[Branhammer]

This weekend, I will finally be going to the dealership to test-drive the 2015 Mustang. I am pretty much dead-set on a base GT. But I will go ahead and drive a premium ecoboost as well since I can get it about $3k cheaper. So...

As a guy coming from an old, outdated 1996 GT that only puts down about 265rwhp and isn't very comfortable as a DD, do you guys think I should consider an ecoboost? I've always thought that a Mustang should have a V-8, but this is a car that I will be driving every day. The EB will be just as fast, if not faster, than my current GT (fastest it ever ran was a 13.3 and that was about seven years ago), it will get good fuel economy, will be cheaper than a base GT, and I could afford to get a premium rather than a base. Also, Ford Racing has that warranty-friendly tune they're working on, which could make up a nice chunk of the power difference. BUT...it won't sound like a Mustang and that's something I just don't know if I'll ever get over. And it'll never be as potent as a 5.0. Part of my wants the comfort, niceties, and lower purchase cost and part of me wants the fastest Mustang for my money. I know a lot of you guys will say "go test drive them for yourself" and again, I am doing that this weekend, but I want to hear opinions from people who have driven both the new GT and EB cars.

Also, does anyone think there will be any real incentives on the 2015's anytime soon? Right now they have $500 off and I can get another $500 military discount. But I'd maybe be willing to wait longer if they'd put a decent rebate on it (like $2k or something).

Also, I am not trading in the 96 as I know they won't give me a damn thing for it and it just adds more headache to the whole car shopping process. I will be buying the new car then fix a few little things on the 96, clean it up, and sell it private-party. With the mods to the 96, I'm thinking I can recoup just a little of the money I've got in it this way. It's got about 160k miles on it. Mechanically it's great, but the paint is in bad shape (pretty faded) and it needs all new suspension bushings all around. Comparable 1996 GTs in STOCK form are listing locally with about a $4k-$5 asking price. That seems high for a stock 96 GT with 150k+ miles, but I'm thinking I could list mine for about $4k with a goal of getting about $3k for it in the end. Do you guys think that is a realistic number? The money I get out of it will go straight onto the new cars principle to bring the payment down.

Any advice is appreciated!

 

[RSKtakR]

I was considering the EB because of the price and I wanted the paddle shifters, I went and drove an EB premium with the A6... then promptly placed my order for my base Gt after the test drive. I just wasn't a fan of the EB car at ALL. I have been a FI guy for a while and was even driving a modded EB F150 too, but the 4 banger just didn't do it for me and I knew that after modding it and putting a full exhaust on it, that I would hate the sound. I'm sure the EB is a good deal for some people, just not me lol. I Love the torque and sound of the 5.0

 

[SID297]

For the extra cash I'd go for the 5.0.

 

[VRYALT3R3D]

Go with the 5.0. I test drove the V6 and ecboost and I thought the V6 was the better choice. The 5.0 is miles ahead

 

[Branhammer]

I think at the end of the day I'm going to want that 5.0. My biggest concern is getting a good deal. There are dealerships in other parts of the country with internet prices of $28k on a $33k base GT. That's something close to $1500 under invoice. I really want to know how they are pricing them so low. If I can get a price like that, I won't even consider less than 8 cylinders. But the dealers here aren't putting prices like that online. Does anyone know how dealers are pricing new Mustangs at $4k-$6k under MSRP?

 

[RSKtakR]

Find someone to get you X-plan pricing, and have your salesman look around for cash off offers.. I had the $500 off from Ford then there was another $250 off found somewhere, and I use a friends/Ford employee's X-plan.

 

[K3nMasters]

Go with the 5.0. You won't regret the $3k difference in the long run.

As for the price, goto Edmunds and find out the real invoice pricing. I was able to get $4k under MSRP on my 15' GT Prem, PP & Recaros.

Here's an example of the one I used to buy my dad his 12' QX56 New a few years back. I just gave him the print out and the salesman said ok. Granted I bought my 12' G37x from him a few months prior, but once they see that you know the real numbers, they're less likely to BS you.

 

[Branhammer]

Go with the 5.0. You won't regret the $3k difference in the long run.

As for the price, goto Edmunds and find out the real invoice pricing. I was able to get $4k under MSRP on my 15' GT Prem, PP & Recaros.

Here's an example of the one I used to buy my dad his 12' QX56 New a few years back. I just gave him the print out and the salesman said ok. Granted I bought my 12' G37x from him a few months prior, but once they see that you know the real numbers, they're less likely to BS you.
View attachment 40356

Haha I actually just found this spreadsheet and set it up for a 4% profit, which put a 2015 GT base final selling price at $29.760.38. I was thinking I'd shoot for around $29,500 before tax/title/tags, so this looks pretty fair to me.

 

[K3nMasters]

Haha I actually just found this spreadsheet and set it up for a 4% profit, which put a 2015 GT base final selling price at $29.760.38. I was thinking I'd shoot for around $29,500 before tax/title/tags, so this looks pretty fair to me.

Yeah, it's worked for me on the last (3) cars I've bought. You should also strategize on the timing. I found out that the dealership had the particular trim I wanted and went in 15mins before closing at 6pm on Saturday. Once I looked at the car with the salesman, I told him that I have a price in mind and if they can get close, I'll take it right now.

Good luck and I hope you get it. I have a sh*t-faced grin everytime I'm walking to my car.

 

[Branhammer]

What sucks is that my wife and I have to deal with the shopping experience for two cars right now. We just went in to trade in her 2012 Mazda3 i Touring lease for a 2015 version of the same car. Same options and everything. They want us to pay $266 a month....TO LEASE A MADZA ****ING 3! Her current payment is $189 a month, for comparison. We were in shock and just said "Absolutely not. Not even close." Then they said "We understand. Thank you for your time," shook our hands and let us walk! They did not even make an effort to get closer to her current payment. And I know for a fact they can because they were giving her KBB value for her current car, with no equity, and charging full MSRP for the 2015. Laughable...

/rant

 

[Jackie Chan]

How much longer left on the 2012 lease?

 

[K3nMasters]

If you're looking for a lease, ask for a tax credit. Dealerships have tax credit leftover from customers who turn in a lease at maturity and don't end up trading for a new vehicle. You simply have to ask and make it seem that it is the only way to make the deal affordable. The salesman will go talk to the finance manager and tell you how much of the taxes they can cover.

I promise you that I've done this on a lease for a $50k car and the dealership gave me a tax credit of $40k, so I only paid taxes on $10k for the lease. The IL laws have now changed where we only have to pay taxes on the leased portion, but that is new for this year and there are still plenty of states and people out there with old lease agreements.

 

[VRYALT3R3D]

What sucks is that my wife and I have to deal with the shopping experience for two cars right now. We just went in to trade in her 2012 Mazda3 i Touring lease for a 2015 version of the same car. Same options and everything. They want us to pay $266 a month....TO LEASE A MADZA ****ING 3! Her current payment is $189 a month, for comparison. We were in shock and just said "Absolutely not. Not even close." Then they said "We understand. Thank you for your time," shook our hands and let us walk! They did not even make an effort to get closer to her current payment. And I know for a fact they can because they were giving her KBB value for her current car, with no equity, and charging full MSRP for the 2015. Laughable...

/rant

You need to stop being a payment shopper and look at the cash price first.

 

[Branhammer]

Her lease isn't up until August I believe. So we still have some time to haggle and shop around. They based their last offer on MSRP. That's not happening. They can base it on MSRP minus $1500-$2000 or I can find another Mazda dealer who will. What really pisses me off is:

Her first lease was a 2009 Mazda3 i Touring with moon roof and bose audio. She put $2500 down and the payment was $225.
At the end of that lease she traded for a 2012 i Touring. Same options. Had $3000 equity in her 2009 to put into the 2012. $189 payment.
Now apparently her 2012 has depreciated so badly that she has no equity this time around. How did a 2009 hold it's value better than the exact same car, 3 years newer, with a more advanced engine (skyactiv) that gets better MPG?

 

[Branhammer]

You need to stop being a payment shopper and look at the cash price first.

I normally am a price shopper. I used to never believe in leasing. Leasing is new to me. I'm fine with my wife doing it as long as the payment stays low because then I only have one car to maintain. But yes, I'm starting to learn more about leasing and I now know I need to haggle the bottom line price of the car on a lease just like I would a purchase.

 

[Branhammer]

If you're looking for a lease, ask for a tax credit. Dealerships have tax credit leftover from customers who turn in a lease at maturity and don't end up trading for a new vehicle. You simply have to ask and make it seem that it is the only way to make the deal affordable. The salesman will go talk to the finance manager and tell you how much of the taxes they can cover.

I promise you that I've done this on a lease for a $50k car and the dealership gave me a tax credit of $40k, so I only paid taxes on $10k for the lease. The IL laws have now changed where we only have to pay taxes on the leased portion, but that is new for this year and there are still plenty of states and people out there with old lease agreements.

I have never heard of this. Thanks! I have a lot to learn in the leasing game.

 

[Branhammer]

Well, after test driving both an EB and a GT on Friday, I am very impressed with both cars. The EB is nice. I drove one with 6-speed manual, PP, and Recaros. It has good power until about 5000 rpms. Then it falls on its face. Reminds me too much of a NPI 2v. Then I test drove a GT automatic. I will be the first to say I HATE automatics, and I don't care for it much in this car either (I also got to drive a Ferrari F430 on the same day, so my opinion of the Mustangs select shift MIGHT be a little skewed lol). Even in track mode, when rolling on the freeway at a low RPM and then smashing the gas, there is still a little lag time before it really takes off. So I enjoyed the 6-speed manual a lot more. I will say this though: I would rather have a base GT without a single option WITH an automatic than an EB premium with every option possible. The 5.0 is that much better than the EB. It just pulls and pulls forever.

As far as handling, the EB handled a little better because of better weight distribution and PP. The GT was a non PP car, but it's power advantage far outweighs the EB weight and handling advantage, and since I am going to be driving this car every day, I actually prefer the non PP car. Both cars' handling and ride quality are infinitely better than my old POS. The IRS is awesome and I only got a little bit of wheel hop in the EB, surprisingly enough, as I punched it going up the interstate on-ramp. Not a bit of wheel hop in the GT.

So, the dealership here just happens to have a base GT in guard metallic with a manual, 3.55's, and black foundry wheels listed on their inbound vehicle board, and they all remembered me from when I worked there and they are giving me invoice and $1750 in incentives. Now I just need to get all my ducks in a row and get financing set up and I'll be able to put a deposit down on this GT. Time to shop around for loans!

 

[StangMan04]

Go with the 5.0. You won't regret the $3k difference in the long run.

As for the price, goto Edmunds and find out the real invoice pricing. I was able to get $4k under MSRP on my 15' GT Prem, PP & Recaros.

Here's an example of the one I used to buy my dad his 12' QX56 New a few years back. I just gave him the print out and the salesman said ok. Granted I bought my 12' G37x from him a few months prior, but once they see that you know the real numbers, they're less likely to BS you.
View attachment 40356

Is there a spreadsheet like this that can be used for the 15s? I may be in the market in a bit and looks like a good tool.

 

[Branhammer]

Is there a spreadsheet like this that can be used for the 15s? I may be in the market in a bit and looks like a good tool.

Check this site out. It has multiple spreadsheets that could be useful.

https://www.carbuyingtips.com/download.htm

 

[timspony]

Being that I have a 2015 GT & EB ... I love both cars!! Obviously the GT is much faster, but I'm telling you the EB is a a lot of fun also!! ... and it does better at the pump!