ORLY, i gotta ask my ford dealer then...
Need info on buying a 5.0
- Thread starter angelofrat42
- Start date
ORLY, i gotta ask my ford dealer then...
why not wait until the 2015 is announced? Can still get a 2014 if you want but gives you the option for a 2015 if you end up liking the changes?
Too40gawlf
Banned
I see your point. But Im not paying 35K for a 2015. The 2011-2014 are exactly what I want. I could be content with owning mine for 200K miles and 20 years. My only issue is that my car is an early build and has been warrantied for numerous trans issues. Its on its 2nd MT82 and is still making driveline noises. If the 2014 runs perfect I would be completely happy - even if the 2015 has a 500 hp motor and is 200 lbs lighter.
Too40gawlf
Banned
And before someone says it, my driveline issues are not because I cant drive manual. Ive had manual cars for most of my life - including a 96GT and 99GT. The driveline should not clank and chatter when downshifting to 3rd at 50 mph.
In order this is the list of things my car has been warrantied for:
- fly wheel bolts (previous owner)
- clutch pedal (previous owner)
- MT82 tear down and rebuild (previous owner)
- 2 cats
- alternator x2
- MT82 replacement
- scheduled for an appointment for continuind driveline noise
Mind you this my odometer read 7400 miles right now. That history doesnt aspire confidence for a car to keep for years reliably. If I could get a 2014 that runs the way it should with a warranty that goes 5 years out, it would be something to chew on.
In order this is the list of things my car has been warrantied for:
- fly wheel bolts (previous owner)
- clutch pedal (previous owner)
- MT82 tear down and rebuild (previous owner)
- 2 cats
- alternator x2
- MT82 replacement
- scheduled for an appointment for continuind driveline noise
Mind you this my odometer read 7400 miles right now. That history doesnt aspire confidence for a car to keep for years reliably. If I could get a 2014 that runs the way it should with a warranty that goes 5 years out, it would be something to chew on.
I understand where you are coming from. Not obviously hearing it is hard to say, have you driven a different 5.0? That two piece drive shaft makes a lot of clunking noise that will never go away unless you replace the driveshaft with a one piece. Not too say you shouldn't trade in but I think your going to get some kind of clunk/sound from these cars regardless.
I would say if you haven't driven a different 5.0 do so just to compare to your own. Obviously you've had problems though regardless.
Too40gawlf
Banned
Ive driven another 5.0 and realize the driveline is noisy. But the noise coming from my car is not normal operation. The downshift issue is not the driveshaft - its either the trans, flywheel, or clutch.
correct,
OP, if your not financing with the dealer, cash doesn't make a difference as they still get all the money from the bank immediately anyway.
Cash does help with negotiating with a private seller which is what I would do if I were you. Dealers are always gonna have higher prices then private party.
Last edited:
the dual mass flywheel on this car makes a loud clunk noise when the drive line is loaded and unloaded. i think thats one of the noises you might be hearing. as for the early builds.. well i dont think that makes any difference. my car was built 11/10
my drive line is noisy. the transmission whines and the drive shafts and flywheel clunk. it has not been to the dealer for anything. car drives perfect.
This was my point and why I said to drive another 5.0 to compare. Mine is almost as old/is as old as yours. I forget the build date but was late 2010 and when I pulled the stock mani for the boss mani yesterday 06/10/10 was written on the engine. My transmission only whines in first gear with the radio off and if you listen really hard. Kind of hard to hear it over the exhaust alone, muchless with the radio on. Mostly whine in 1st gear on deceleration.
It also clunks a lot. I never took it to the dealer for this though as I had test driven a different 5.0 than the one I purchased and it did the same clunking. I'll be honest when I first got the car I never joined any forums so I never knew exactly what all might be clunking. Seems to be pretty normal for the 2011+ mustangs to do a lot of clunking.
I just thankfully don't have any whine from the 3.73 FRPP gears I had installed. I've heard that whine and I am thankful I don't have it.
Sorry for the derail, although hopefully it is helpful info for the OP if they are going to pick up a used 5.0
Last edited:
Haven't read many of the other comments yet, but if you are paying cash why not go private party? Will end up saving yourself money in the end and the hassle of having to deal with the dealership
dealership costs > private party
private parties generally selling cars are looking for extra money, and quickly... therefore with cash you have more room to finagle, whereas a dealer is only going to sell if they are making profit off it.
dealership costs > private party
private parties generally selling cars are looking for extra money, and quickly... therefore with cash you have more room to finagle, whereas a dealer is only going to sell if they are making profit off it.
I appreciate all of the responses! i was looking at a 2013 race red MT6 with 373s for around 27k out the door at a dealership in vegas but we will see what happens. I really need the car to have a warranty...
Too40gawlf
Banned
OP,
Buy something out in the DC area and I will drive it out to you in AZ :-D
Seriously, my folks live in SoCal, I'll have them come pick me up hen I drop your car off.
True! But not in all circumstances, especially with volume dealers. I've dealt with salesman who will do almost anything to make that last sell of the day to get that bonus. But yeah they won't you to finance. During my negotiations, I've let them think we are financing the entire with one of their refereed banks, then boom I tell themI'm pre-approved through my credit union. Let's get this paper work moving lol
Too40gawlf
Banned
Lol. Thats the way to do it.
As far as getting the sale - thats the individual salesman hustling for his numbers. Agian, he doesnt care if you pay cash. The only time they might care is that if you cant get approved for credit but have cash outright (a huge rarity). So of course in that istance, they would rather take a cash sale than no sale.
Haha thats the way I did it too. Better rates and they're left holding the "empty" bag so to speak.
Also FWIW, my 2013 clunks too, its just the nature of these cars I think. I cant complain though, got mine cheap hahaha.
Too40gawlf
Banned
Im OK with clunks. But the clattering on downshifts is not kosher. Im afraid, flywheel bolts are backing out.
Too40gawlf
Banned
Great price. Especially for CA.
I worked at a dealership, a greedy one , our finance managers hated cash deals, why because they made no money on them. Its all about selling to customers with with good credit like a 700 score or folks with a 550-650 score. we would get them in at a rate of say %3 then we would book them at %5. On $50,000 car thats big money to be made. 800 + scores always got the best rate unless we thought they were stupid enough to not realize a couple of extra points. I sold an $85,000 corvette z06, it was a cash deal! those finance guys were pissed, they didn't make a dime, I made $600.00 on the deal. Its a dirty business that capitalizes on customers lack of knowledge. I got out of it and have had many job offers since but i never went back to it!
Too40gawlf
Banned
Do people do it part time? I'd like to try to sell cars without having the pressue of it being my day job. I dont want to work at a dirty dealership trying to take people, but I like cars and think I could do OK at a decent place.
Users who are viewing this thread
