It's only a clutch
new clutch time again!!! which one now?
- Thread starter golfprowanabe
- Start date
It's only a clutch
How the hell can the cenerforce suck that bad. I'm on my second stock clutch running 10.80s it has to be much better then stock. I belive it's breakin and driver's error. I have herd of many guys beating the stock clutch up that can't even put the times down that I do. I really think it's the driver and how bad you beat the shit out of your car.
I've had good luck with SPEC clutches myself. The stage three I had in my 90 LX coupe stood up to 628rwhp/28" ET streets well. I'll order a SPEC when the time comes for my 03's stock clutch to go out. Sure though if you read around you'll find people that have had good/bad luck with most all brands. Never know all the details...
Billy
Billy
Was it a plain vanilla Centerforce or a Centerforce w/ the Dual Puck upgrade? Big difference and one that needs to be noted when talking about clutch failures.
Putting a clutchmasters in this week . . . heard good things and some personal experience to help
I'd be curious as to HOW he does his burnouts. If he revs, dumps, and grabs the brake with his left foot, then fine. BUT, if he heel-toes the brake and the gas at the same time with his right foot, then that's how he burnt it up during the dry burnout.
Its pretty much all it is. I wasted a stock clutch after 1200 miles. I chalk it up to driver error, no break in period, and ET streets and 4k clutch dumps.
I have had a Spec stage 3, I don't think I gave it enough break in period and the pressure plate exploded. But it still chattered way too much.
Now I have a Centerforce DF and a Fradenza (spelling?) flywheel and its working fine. Some people are just hard on clutches me included.
That IS how I do my burnouts. But the problem was me getting stopped in a middle of a burnout because of another car not paying attention. After I was allowed to restart my burnout, I should have got back in the water first. I didn't and that cost me. I believe that the CenterForce is a good clutch. Not many clutches are going to handle a dry burnout when the tires stick!
You might also consider a line lock if you spend any amount of time at the strip.
Makes the burnouts easier to do and not as brutal on the car.
Dana
Makes the burnouts easier to do and not as brutal on the car.
Dana
Dave,
I have a spec3i. I ****ing hate it. It has a metallic disk that grabs like a mofo. The only problem is it is not streetable in my opinion. If you have to drive in traffic or want the ability of slipping your clutch stay the F away from this clutch.
I'm thinking about getting a centerforce twin puck. I'm going to track tomorrow. Hopefully I'll burn up this POS clutch so I'll be forced to install a new one.
I have a spec3i. I ****ing hate it. It has a metallic disk that grabs like a mofo. The only problem is it is not streetable in my opinion. If you have to drive in traffic or want the ability of slipping your clutch stay the F away from this clutch.
I'm thinking about getting a centerforce twin puck. I'm going to track tomorrow. Hopefully I'll burn up this POS clutch so I'll be forced to install a new one.
So was it the regular Centerforce DF or the Centerforce w/ the Dual Puck upgrade?
Does anybody have the correct part number for the Centerforce w/ the Dual Puck upgrade with 26-spline input shaft?
Does anybody have the correct part number for the Centerforce w/ the Dual Puck upgrade with 26-spline input shaft?
Mike,
Good luck on trying to burn up that iron disc!!!!:beer:
I'm not aware of the CenterForce dual puck. Can someone explain what the upgrade is?
Hammer contacted Centerforce about providing a clutch for his car and due to the loads they were expecting they change the clutch configuration and materials. It is considered an upgraded to the original DF clutch, but doesn’t cost that much as I remember. He has not had a problem with it and has used numerous clutches in his car including McLeon twin disk, SPEC 3, and others and it is the only one that has lasted and he recommends now. I am trying to get the right part number so I make sure and order the correct one.
If the SPEC 3 isn't good for street use, then what is?
Bruce
Bruce
CLUTCH: CFT360075 [$174.25]
DUAL PUCK: LM388144 (modification to above) [$96.00]
FLYWHEEL: 900205 [$548.23]
TOB: N1714 [$29.15]
ALIGNMENT TOOL: 53026 [$3.75]
Total: $851.38
Got mine from California High Performance, (800) 350-7110.
This clutch drove better than my SPEC 2/3 hybrid which was a chattery heavy pedal little wench.. the CF is a light pedal, no chatter, slightly grabby clutch. Allowed me to 60' about .03 better than my SPEC and its held up longer. I'm not saying its the ultimate clutch for 600rwhp but for my 500rwhp its outstanding for everyday driving and occasionaly drag strip abuse on slicks. My CF even smells after some runs but the 60' never falls off nor does the ET. I personally think I'm near the limits of its abilities but that is saying a lot for 500rwhp, ET Streets and 6000rpm clutch dumps in a car that weighs as much as ours and makes as much torque.
the spec stage 3 in my car has been great. after 11k its smooth as glass, but still grabs hard.
lets face it, any clutch that will hold 650rwhp will have to be fairly aggresive.
lets face it, any clutch that will hold 650rwhp will have to be fairly aggresive.
Just had my clutch done at X2C in Van Nuys, CA.....Great work by Eddie (he is awesome) also it feels a lot better than stock...I will keep posted after I get 500+ miles....then let the good times roll!!!!!
I disagree ... my spec3 is still quite streetable.
In fact, I may be going with a spec4 at my next opportunity -- which may not be for some time unless I twist off my input shaft.
In fact, I may be going with a spec4 at my next opportunity -- which may not be for some time unless I twist off my input shaft.
do you have a spec3 or a spec3i. I think a spec4 is crazy for street use. The spec3i uses an iron disk (the material used on a spec4) where the spec3 uses a ceramic/organic disk.
Centerforce dual friction, Centerforce TOB and a Fidanza flywheel.
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