I have a macprochamber midpipe on my car now with stock manifolds. I have been told that the only header I can run is a shorty. Can I run a longtube header or do I have to get a x pipe or h pipe to replace the midpipe on the car.
Newbie Question
- Thread starter rynocobra
- Start date
I wouldn't replace the stock manifolds with shorty headers...not worth it...and yes if you decide to get longtubes then you will have to get a midpipe made for longtubes. Or you could have your current midpipe cut and fabricated to fit whatever longtube you get at an exhaust shop or do it yourself with a welder.
Before you consider LT's it's best to consider what mods you already have on the car and what your goals are. LT's are only worth about 10 hp up to the 600 hp mark where they start to benefit the engine which is harly worth the expense and hassle. An NA engine will see more benefit from LT's beause they don't have a blower to help move the charge into the engine while purging the remaining spent gasses out.
LT's are a royal PIA takes about 8 hours to install, they can scrape the pavement, requires a K-member, need to be removed before pulling the tranny, are very frustrating if they leak, won't pass emissions and your mid-pipe choice will be severely limited. Those are the downsides but it's best to consider this before making a decision.
I have JBA shorties which require quite a bit of rework to get them the flow but they will breath much better than the cast iron manifold, are smog legal and don't require removal of the gear box out plus I can use any afternarket mid-pipe that the connects to the factory manifold.
LT's are a royal PIA takes about 8 hours to install, they can scrape the pavement, requires a K-member, need to be removed before pulling the tranny, are very frustrating if they leak, won't pass emissions and your mid-pipe choice will be severely limited. Those are the downsides but it's best to consider this before making a decision.
I have JBA shorties which require quite a bit of rework to get them the flow but they will breath much better than the cast iron manifold, are smog legal and don't require removal of the gear box out plus I can use any afternarket mid-pipe that the connects to the factory manifold.
My car has a lot of bolt ons. I honestly want to get headers, port the sc, and dynotune so I can take the sct programer tunes off. I just dont want to keep switching through tunes from eco to power if I take it out to play it just gets frustrating not to mention when I bought the car the tunes were on the scanner so idk if there safe or not. Emissions im not to worried about its just the price if it all.
Nothing wrong with headers if that's what you want. If they start giving you heartache that's a different story. Just keep in mind don't expect anything noticeably different at the gas pedal, only your ears will notice. You will be running catless so your car is going to be very loud without quite (restrictive) mufflers. Many a person has taken the route only to find not being able to hold a conversation in the car got old real fast and every cop in a 2 mile radius will hear what your doing.........plus your exhaust will smell.
There would be more incentive for headers if your car was NA but don't let that stop you if that's what you want (don't get rid of the stock H pipe you may find you need it should you have to get it smogged). What ever you get make sure they are stainless steel that are high quality (Bassani and Kook's comes to mind). Buying mild steel exhaust components is a waste of money spend the extra coin on a system that will last as long as the car.
Thanks for the info guys i'm still debating on what I wanna do I might just put slp resonaters that it came with before I bought the car on I'm pretty sure wits got the slp cat back pipes but the guy changed them to magnaflow mufflers because he said his to loud. Honestly with the midpipe and the magnaflow mufflers I honestly can't tell what rpm I'm at before 4grand lol it sucks.
What ever you do don't skimp on this car money wise. This is not a car to save money on and it deserves better. Personally I think the money of a quality exhaust can be put to better use and will get you more bang for the buck. A twin screw or a FTBR IRS bushing kit comes to mind.
Got sub-frames?
Got sub-frames?
Nope actually you just reminded me to get some what brand would you recommend? Plus I don't know what to do about the rear end. People around here are telling me to get a solid rear but I'm also wondering if I can just get stronger axles. It has everything else lowered, bumpeesteer kit, caster camber plates.
Use the search function on the topic your interested in much to be learned.
Sub-frames should be the very first mod on your car and will make a world of difference in the way it drives buy helping to stiffen the wet noodle SN95 chassis.
1st choice if you can get them (I think they need a group buy before they will make a batch :nonono
Hans Racecraft - Ford Mustang Subframe Connectors
2nd choice
Global West suspension manufactures competition subframes for 1994, 1995,1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004 Mustangs.
3rd choice
Stifflers Web Brace 79-04 Mustang
4th choice
any rectangular box section tube type SFC
The FTBR bushings will address most of the axle breakage issues and help plant the rear wheels better than the spongy rubber bushings. It's a great source for technical information regarding the suspension as well.
FULL TILT BOOGIE RACING
An SRA for what your doing is a suspension "downgrade" especially on the street. Use the search function and don't take anything you read as gospel including what I say. After a while you get the feel for who gives good advice and who doesn't as getting steered down the wrong path gets expensive.
List your current mods, what you want to do the car and how you plan to use it will get you great feedback. Start a new thread as such in Terminator Talk
Sub-frames should be the very first mod on your car and will make a world of difference in the way it drives buy helping to stiffen the wet noodle SN95 chassis.
1st choice if you can get them (I think they need a group buy before they will make a batch :nonono
Hans Racecraft - Ford Mustang Subframe Connectors
2nd choice
Global West suspension manufactures competition subframes for 1994, 1995,1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004 Mustangs.
3rd choice
Stifflers Web Brace 79-04 Mustang
4th choice
any rectangular box section tube type SFC
The FTBR bushings will address most of the axle breakage issues and help plant the rear wheels better than the spongy rubber bushings. It's a great source for technical information regarding the suspension as well.
FULL TILT BOOGIE RACING
An SRA for what your doing is a suspension "downgrade" especially on the street. Use the search function and don't take anything you read as gospel including what I say. After a while you get the feel for who gives good advice and who doesn't as getting steered down the wrong path gets expensive.
List your current mods, what you want to do the car and how you plan to use it will get you great feedback. Start a new thread as such in Terminator Talk
Anabolic
Banned
dude what are you talking about? headers lower boost and raise hp like 20??? also they quiet down your exhaust if anything and CATTED mid pipes ARE available.
Original poster just buy longtubes and a catted mid pipe
MM&FF did a back-to-back comparison between headers and the cast iron log and recodered a whopping 10 hp improvement on a pullied Terminator engine (I still have the issue). Another poster on this site did the same thing and was pissed as hell after learning he made 5 more hp than before. 20 hp improvement is not a stretch but not likely on most engine.
2-3% improvement is hardly worth the investment with his mods. In his shoes I would move this a few rungs down the priority list.
I have yet to hear any modular motor with longtubes sound quieter than with factory manifolds.
Anabolic
Banned
i agree they dont al gain 20hp, depends on alot and how much you're breathing BUT, it still lowers boost and allows gases to escape faster, This is BY NO MEANS a mod to FORGET.. get it done and over with. If you go about pulling the k member too, if you can get the tubular k member/control arms with poly motor mounts too.. Do it ALL up..
personally I would rather make my 500-525hp on 10-11 psi than on 17+ psi with a smaller blower and no headers.
personally I would rather make my 500-525hp on 10-11 psi than on 17+ psi with a smaller blower and no headers.
Users who are viewing this thread
