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not what i bought,, mach 1..

Discussion in 'Mach 1' started by Kennedy jay, Sep 24, 2018.

  1. BlckBox04

    BlckBox04 the way she goes Premium Member

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    aren't 03/04 rods Manley
     
  2. roy_1031

    roy_1031 roy1031 Established Member

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    Yes. Kellogg crank, Manley rods, and Zollner pistons.


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  3. Kennedy jay

    Kennedy jay New Member Established Member

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    ok,, after a bit of research ive learned the compression ratio in this is to high for alot of boost... with the 2.6 pully it hits 13-14 lbs.. so what would be a good choice here..? 8.5 to 1 ?? if so whats a good piston rod combo to go with? ive got the motor apart and ready for new guts...
     
  4. roy_1031

    roy_1031 roy1031 Established Member

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    What are your power goals and fuel availabilities in your area? Is e85 an option?


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  5. Kennedy jay

    Kennedy jay New Member Established Member

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    not looking for major power or anything.. the car came with the eaton swap allready done. i started all this over a knock issue and have been learning since day 1. if the rods and pistons are the mach 1s weak point i want to upgrade, but i want the upgrade to work well with the 12-14 pounds of boost it will have. the rest of the support, injectors, pumps, fpr..ect.. are already on the car. think i might be looking somewhere around 500.... witb the smaller pully and factory cams.
     
  6. DSG2003Mach1

    DSG2003Mach1 Well-Known Member Premium Member Established Member

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    If you have 93 octane fuel available I find it hard to justify going under 9.5:1 or so
     
  7. Kennedy jay

    Kennedy jay New Member Established Member

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    yea,, 93 octane is available... so is 112.. the local track is just a few miles from my house.. not that i would need it.. but the factory mach is 10.5 to 1.. the terminator is running an 8.5 to 1 with the same cams and blower.. kinda figured that would be the way to go.
     
  8. DSG2003Mach1

    DSG2003Mach1 Well-Known Member Premium Member Established Member

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    It’s either 10 or 10.1:1. 8.5 leaves a lot on the table, understandable from an oem but On a rebuild I wouldn’t go that low
     
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  9. Kennedy jay

    Kennedy jay New Member Established Member

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    so 9 or better? any recomendations?
     
  10. roy_1031

    roy_1031 roy1031 Established Member

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    I’d run 10:1 as to not wish I had done more. At 10:1 you can make 500rwhp very conservatively on low boost. Since you’ll have a fully forged rotating assembly at that point, drop in some high octane fuel or e85 and crank out 750+ rwhp if your fuel system can support it and let it eat. Stock termi guys at 8.5:1 are making over 700hp safely on that low of compression. You don’t want the power now but why not set it up for later just in case? It’s probably the same price to buy pistons at 8.5 and 10:1.


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  11. 311-420

    311-420 LSx stock Established Member

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    Factory Mach stuff is 10.1:1

    I'd go 9.5 and leave the 2.7 pulley on there. 10:1 would work too but I like a bit of cushion in my setup, for peace of mind if not anything else. This would leave the door open a little wider for more blower later on if you decide you want that. It ought to make 500whp with ease. Lots of companies make good pistons, JE, Mahle, Diamond etc

    Have you found the source of the knocking sound since the teardown? Who is doing the machining? You aren't just dropping parts into this engine willy nilly, I hope..
     
  12. DSG2003Mach1

    DSG2003Mach1 Well-Known Member Premium Member Established Member

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    when I lost my 10:1 aluminator to an oiling failure we rebuilt at 9.5:1. My car sees ~15psi from a centri on 93 octane and gives us a decent cushion. If I want to turn it up I run E85 with a much more aggressive tune. I also have a J&S Safeguard/vampire watching over me
     
  13. Kennedy jay

    Kennedy jay New Member Established Member

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    pretty sure the knocking was a loose chain/bad tensioner.. replacing both just to make sure... and the upgrades to the pistons are definetly needed.. for the boost. gonna replace rod and main bearings just so everything's new and mates well.. got a local machine shop doing my work, been around for 60+ years... this will probaby be the last build i do for a while.. ive got more money than time,, so it works... i dont mind spending a few grand for a good outcome..
     
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  14. Kennedy jay

    Kennedy jay New Member Established Member

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    20180708_165634.jpg
    my girls.. i love opening the garage..
     
  15. 311-420

    311-420 LSx stock Established Member

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    Sounds good..have you got an oil pump picked out? Billet gears are basically a must at this point. Several ways to get them, from tss, mmr and I think they even come standard in the melling pumps.
     
  16. Kennedy jay

    Kennedy jay New Member Established Member

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    havent checked the part number on the one i took off, but great idea.. got a,canton deep sump on it.
    what about a set of adjustable cam gears? worth the trouble? i know on my twin turbo, those adjustments made a nice difference.
     
  17. DSG2003Mach1

    DSG2003Mach1 Well-Known Member Premium Member Established Member

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    Just make sure your old school guy understands these new fangled mod motors really do require torque plates
     
  18. SVTdreamin04

    SVTdreamin04 What's a "Termi"??? Premium Member Established Member

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    My engine had a knock and it was coming from a tensioner that sbredded. The shoe was completely gone from the tensioner on the passenger side head.


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  19. SVTdreamin04

    SVTdreamin04 What's a "Termi"??? Premium Member Established Member

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    IMG_0327.JPG


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  20. Kennedy jay

    Kennedy jay New Member Established Member

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    ok,i understand the reasoning for the plates,, but do i need to use them for just honing the cylinders? not looking to get it bored.. going with the same size pistons,, in a 9.5 to 1 setup...
     

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