Official GT 5.0/Boss 302 UOA thread

[UnleashedBeast]

Had another thought about warranty and engine lubricants. It reminded me of corrupt politicians trying to ban AR15 style rifles from US citizens. "Assault Rifles" is the term used to scare people. Much like "Your Warranty is VOID if you don't use ______".

However, the facts of the matter.....as you can see, more people were killed by knives, blunt objects (like clubs, hammers, etc), or bare hands. So, my point is.....in 2007, only 1 person was killed by explosives, out of 14,916 people murdered. ONE!

People worried about warranty due to lubricant choice, is like citizens/politicians worried about explosives because one person was murdered using it. The odds of it happening to you, you'd win the lottery first.



In a nutshell, when warranty is concerned. Worry about the aftermarket tune you installed, or the long tube headers you HAD to have. Not the lubricant choice in your engine. The Coyote and Roadrunner has already proven it can use anything from 5W-20 to 5W-50 depending on intended use.

 

[JLear]

Edit. Pm sent.

 

[UnleashedBeast]

Edit. Pm sent.

Replied, and when the new recommendation list is complete I will make it public. Trying to make thing simplified, using the new AZF and AMR formulations from Amsoil.

 

[3KGT_RedRyder]

Replied, and when the new recommendation list is complete I will make it public. Trying to make thing simplified, using the new AZF and AMR formulations from Amsoil.

Great information in this thread! Just wondering if you were still working on the new recommendation list UB. I'm still on the fence on whether or not I should just get the 10w-30 or consider the new 5w-50 from Amsoil. Hope to get the pony out after the next rain but really need to change the oil from the motorcraft 5w-50 (11,000 miles 10 months old) I'm currently using.

 

[UnleashedBeast]

Great information in this thread! Just wondering if you were still working on the new recommendation list UB. I'm still on the fence on whether or not I should just get the 10w-30 or consider the new 5w-50 from Amsoil. Hope to get the pony out after the next rain but really need to change the oil from the motorcraft 5w-50 (11,000 miles 10 months old) I'm currently using.

I did, and here it is. Simplicity

This is a newly revised application list I have created and is simplified to make the choice easier. This recommendation list will cover all seasons for your car, from the harshest winter days, to the hottest summer days. The best part is the oil only has to be changed once a year or 15,000 miles, whichever occur first. Amsoil AZF 0W-40 (Challenger Hellcat and Nissan GTR) and AMR 5W-50 (Ford Mustang) are two new formulations created for powerful street cars.

8 quart fill – GT
8.5 quart fill – Boss 302 and Track Pack GT

Amsoil ALM 5W-20 – If your engine is 100% internally stock in Naturally Aspirated form, regardless of external simple bolt on mods, driven daily in all climates, use this. *Mustang GT only* previously, the old list recommended formulations in the 0W-30 to 10W-30 range for this engine. However, after testing in my personal 2014 Mustang GT with a stock engine, 5W-20 Signature Series is a contender. Using previous recommendations is OK, but will now use AZF 0W-40 as the blanket for most application requirements beyond 5W-20 for simplicity.

Amsoil AZF 0W-40 - If you have a Boss 302 or Track Pack GT and you do not attend HPDE events, use this. Some people ask me if it’s OK to use this at the HPDE. If you plan to attend one event a year and are not driving the car to the edge of cooling limits, it’s acceptable. Schedule the annual oil change to happen right before the event to insure the lubricant is fresh. However, if you are an experienced HPDE track person, 5W-50 may be better suited for you. See the recommendation for 5W-50.

Amsoil AMR 5W-50 - If your street car has a single/twin turbo or supercharger making a lot of power on pump gas or with advanced timing using E85 (or) If you have a Boss 302 or Track Pack GT, and you HPDE or race your car in competition for extended sessions….use this. *Not optimal for short trip, grocery getting, daily driven street duties. If you have a turbo or supercharged car that is driven daily, isn’t raced frequently, used on the streets for occasional wide open throttle bursts, Amsoil AZF 0W-40 is a better choice.*

Amsoil EaO17 - This oil filter outperforms any filter on the market for the Coyote/Roadrunner. Royal Purple is the same filter, part # 20-500.

Amsoil Synchromesh - requires 3 quarts. Use this if you road race your car, or you are experiencing poor shifting.

If you have the Auto 6 speed, this stuff will survive the worst torture.

Amsoil LV Synthetic ATF - 12 quart total fill

and for the rear differential

Amsoil 75W-140 - requires 3 quarts

Don't forget the friction modifier

Amsoil Slip Lock - use all four ounces

*Boss 302 and Track Pack GT owners. If you have the Torsen differential in your car, do not use friction modifier.*

Amsoil Fuel Stabilizer - Use 1 ounce per 2.5 gallons of gasoline when storing your car in the winter.

Bottle Hand Pump - makes pumping new fluid into the transmission and rear differential very easy.

UOA testing kit - we have dedicated UOA threads to compare everyone's reports.

UOA thread

Last thing, do NOT pay retail for Amsoil...EVER! This is how to buy all Amsoil products at wholesale cost (saves 25% off retail).

Preferred Customer

Troy

 

[Beernuts]

I did, and here it is. Simplicity

Factory Fill is 6.5 quarts (stock oil pan) and 8 quarts with an aftermarket oil pan.

Huh? Per my owners manual:

Engine oil
(5.0L engine)
8.0 quarts (7.6 L)

http://www.fordservicecontent.com/F...-Owners-Manual-version-2_om_EN-US_12_2014.pdf

 

[80KM2E]

Why Amsoil EaO11 oil filter instead of EaO17? Also the V8s are 8 Qts. 8.5 with filter I belive. And the v6 uses less oil.

 

[devildog1679]

I have a 2012 GT with bolt-ons and I track the car about 4 times a season and do some Auto X as well. I drive pretty aggressive in the summer where temps get into high 80’s. Winter is in the teens sometimes even below 0. I change my oil in April then again in October.

So much information on hear and I want to get this right. I’ve been running Mobil 1 5W20 Extended Performance since day 1, and think it’s time for a change. With all the information I am thinking for Spring through fall Amsoil XLO 10W40 with EAO17 filter. Then for the winter ALM 5W20 or stick with Mobile 1 5W20 since it’s cheaper. Is my route correct?

Since I change the oild prior to winter I can use something specific for winter driving.

 

[UnleashedBeast]

That was the wrong copy and paste from my lists. The incorrect list was for the 2007-2012 GT500. I have corrected my mistake. Got confused as to what thread I was in, sorry. I cater to the GT500 crowd also.

 

[mjohns930]

Here is my report:

Virtually stock 2014 Mustang GT auto. Amosoil SS 5W30 and Motorcraft filter. Went 6000 miles on this fill, and there is TONS of life left in it. Driven very much like an old person, with occasional WOT blasts. It is my DD and it sees a 12 mile round trip commute on 30-45 mph roads with many stop lights, plus all kinds of other city and highway trips. The car hasn't burned any amount of oil between the two changes I have done so far to warrant filling it. It barely looks like it moves on the dipstick at all. My car does have a tick, sounds kind of like the BBQ ignitor tick, but it has been there since new and has not changed so I am not not worried about it, especially after this report.

I have since filled the car with another 8qts of Amsoil SS 5W30 and this time I went with the Amsoil filter. Going to run it out to 10k miles then do another oil change and UOA. Probably won't see another UOA from me for about 10-11 months.

 

[scholle]

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/

Long read, interesting results.

 

[UnleashedBeast]

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/

Long read, interesting results.

A big take away from this blog, ZDDP levels. Years ago, it was assumed that lower levels of ZDDP were going to kill your engine. That changed, as UOA results concluded API SM/SN levels of ZDDP were not protecting the engine less due to more modern additive content. Even I was on the high ZDDP bandwagon years ago before testing consistently proved wear was not increasing due to lower levels of ZDDP. Mobil 1 was very misleading during this time. About 3-4 years ago, Mobil 1 was always showing more iron ppm wear in their UOA samples compared to their previous formulation of the same SAE grade which has higher levels of ZDDP. It was suspected to be lower levels of ZDDP, even I was convinced. I could not have been more wrong. It was not the reduction of ZDDP, as other formulations with reduced levels didn't have the same elevated iron wear ppm. I still have no idea what it was.

All Amsoil Signature Series lubricants have API SM/SN levels of ZDDP. More isn't required. I could also say this is why I believe Dominator to be a bit "overkill" for the Coyote engine and why it's no longer on the recommendation list. It's loaded with ZDDP and other friction modifiers that are well suited for engines constantly at high rpm. Most Coyote owners would never subject their engine to that level of abuse.

Good post, and good points in this blog. However, would someone please show them how to properly create a webpage.

 

[UnleashedBeast]

Here is my report:

Virtually stock 2014 Mustang GT auto. Amosoil SS 5W30 and Motorcraft filter. Went 6000 miles on this fill, and there is TONS of life left in it. Driven very much like an old person, with occasional WOT blasts. It is my DD and it sees a 12 mile round trip commute on 30-45 mph roads with many stop lights, plus all kinds of other city and highway trips. The car hasn't burned any amount of oil between the two changes I have done so far to warrant filling it. It barely looks like it moves on the dipstick at all. My car does have a tick, sounds kind of like the BBQ ignitor tick, but it has been there since new and has not changed so I am not not worried about it, especially after this report.

I have since filled the car with another 8qts of Amsoil SS 5W30 and this time I went with the Amsoil filter. Going to run it out to 10k miles then do another oil change and UOA. Probably won't see another UOA from me for about 10-11 months.

Thank you for your UOA, it will be added to the list. If you are a bolt on only Coyote, your engine will likely not require anything more than Signature 5W-20. I was running 30+ 7.5 to 7.6 second 1/8th mile passes on a 10,000 mile oil change interval Signature 5W-20 fill with an excellent UOA. Just food for thought. This is why the new recommendation for bolt on cars only call for 5W-20.

 

[mjohns930]

Thank you for your UOA, it will be added to the list. If you are a bolt on only Coyote, your engine will likely not require anything more than Signature 5W-20. I was running 30+ 7.5 to 7.6 second 1/8th mile passes on a 10,000 mile oil change interval Signature 5W-20 fill with an excellent UOA. Just food for thought. This is why the new recommendation for bolt on cars only call for 5W-20.

I will be switching to 5W20 on the next oil change. I had the 5W30 and did the oil change before your new recommendations were out.

 

[SlowJim]

Hi Beast,

Would the 0w40 Signature be ok for a daily driver (frequent short trips)? My car is barely warmed up by the time I get to work every morning. But I have a track day coming up and want to protect my engine.

Thanks,
Jim

 

[UnleashedBeast]

Hi Beast,

Would the 0w40 Signature be ok for a daily driver (frequent short trips)? My car is barely warmed up by the time I get to work every morning. But I have a track day coming up and want to protect my engine.

Thanks,
Jim

Track Pack or Standard GT?

 

[SlowJim]

Standard GT with basic bolt-ons.

 

[SlowJim]

Standard

 

[UnleashedBeast]

In another thread, we have a standard GT that used 5W-20 at a HPDE. The results were not great, as iron wear ppm was far above the norm. Your car does not require that much viscosity on a daily basis (0W-40) for daily commutes, especially since you short trip the car, barely warming it up by the time you arrive to work. It would be in your best interest to change the oil to 0W-40 for the event only, then revert back to 5W-20 for the remainder of the year. I know, not cheap, but that's the price of a HPDE event.

Also, if you are able to drive the car to the extent of cooling limitations, you would be better off with 5W-50.

 

[2013.5.0]

Hey unleashed beast, I meant to ask you. I'm going to be out of warranty soon, what viscosity would you recommend for ambient temperatures from 32F in the worst winter to 115F in a normal summer on a stock motor? I drive it mostly on joy rides in the twisties now once or twice a week, and am at 58200 miles. It used to be my daily. I was thinking 5w30 either Amsoil SS or redline. Running Amsoil SS 5w20 now and will see how the UOA comes back because of the 1000 miles of loud ticking that came with every oil change since 47500 miles, of which I've posted videos before. The severity of the tick has varied from motorcraft blend being the absolute worst, then mobil 1, then redline synthetic being the least bad. After those 1000 or so miles the engine quiets down. My first UOA showed that despite that occasionally severe ticking (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KSTMuIfQGKY) my engine was running relatively healthily at the time--you noted I used the oil too little, I changed it early to make sure the UOA was good because the sound that began after a dealership oil change and which has continued since was so disturbing. I have read some assert that 30 weight oil really quieted things down and 5w20 is an EPA/mileage concession, yet I've also read 5w20 is necessary for proper timing chain tensioner function. Yet track pack cars with no internal changes use 50 weight. What do you think?