Pic of the new head from Ford

[RickSvt]

Well I just got back from the dealer, they are going to be starting the work on the car tomorrow. They will be dropping the motor to install the new heads. Here are 2 pics, one of a sticker that was on the head and another of the Head itself. This was a complete head, not a bare one. My rep talked to a lady at svt and she gave him specific install instructions or something along those lines.

Rick

 

[mike79]

Very interesting!

 

[03SCCOBRA]

Hey Rick what dealership is doing the work on your cobra??

 

[03SCCOBRA]

What's the part number for the new heads too?

 

[RickSvt]

I want to make sure the work is done good before I release the name publicly, but pm me for it.

Left side head part # 2C5Z-6049-BAB
Right side head part # 2C5Z-6049-CAB

 

[DitchTehFish]

Awesome! Hopefully mine will come in soon!

 

[SlowSVT]

Opps, I should have looked at your phote before I posted. Heads already assembled. I edited that out my inquiry :loser:


I take it these are the new "tickless" heads Ford just released. If they are, let us know if you can see any physical difference between your stock Cobra head and the new one. Look especially around the exhaust port. Ford most likely revised the water jacket around the exhaust port and that's internal so you shouldn't see much difference. Can you post some close-up features so we can get a better look?

 

[RickSvt]

Well when the drop out the motor, hopefully I will be able to get some pics of both of them side by side. I will let you guys know if there is a power loss or increase with these as well. Hmmm, can anyone else explain the valve guide thing too, so I have a better understanding. Thanks for the info Slow

Rick

 

[DitchTehFish]

Not for nothing.

If you got a bare head now would be the time to do a port job or a "pocket port" if you are so inclined. Nothing radical. The stock heads has a bit of a sharp edge on the floor of the intake just under the valve seat which should be rounded somewhat. Remove casting/machining mismatch and blend the valve seat to the port on both intake and exhaust ports. Don't do this if you don't know what your doing though. Over zealous use of a Dremil will do more harm the good. That should be good for 25 hp which may or may not be worth the hassle for you. These heads flow soo good stock anyway. Just something to consider.

If you had the "tick" real bad pay close attention to your valve stem diameters especially # 7 & 8 exaust. My understanding is that the tick is the result of lack of adequate cooling the the rear exhaust port area that distorted the valve guide causing the valve to tap back and forth in the guide or valve seat (perhaps someone could elaborate). That would suck if they put worn valves back in your engine. Most mechanics will not check for that and will just slap it back together.


I take it these are the new "tickless" heads Ford just released. If they are, let us know if you can see any physical difference between your stock Cobra head and the new one. Look especially around the exhaust port. Ford most likely revised the water jacket around the exhaust port and that's internal so you shouldn't see much difference. Can you post some close-up features so we can get a better look?

Holy cow, you're my neighboor! Advantage Ford in Duarte verified that I have the tick, and ordered the "tickless" heads for my car over a week ago. They received the paasenger side head, but the drivers side is still on backorder.

 

[Blk03SVTCobra]

So Ford finally came out with the eagerly-anticipated "tickless" head?? Is that what you've got there, RickSvt??

 

[DitchTehFish]

Thanks for the info Slow

Rick

From what I've heard, the tick is caused by the exhaust guide sticking open, which is actually a slight exhaust backfire, in the sound of a tick. :shrug:

 

[SlowSVT]

From what I've heard, the tick is caused by the exhaust guide sticking open, which is actually a slight exhaust backfire, in the sound of a tick. :shrug:

SilverCobra04

I think we exchanged e-mails but never hooked up. PM me if you wanna get together.

The tapping sound always sounded like a valve spring snapping on something. But you can never be sure with this kinda thing. I can't tell how many times I have mis-diagnosed something. Now I just look at it :nonono: and say "maybe it's......." :bash:

 

[RickSvt]

So Ford finally came out with the eagerly-anticipated "tickless" head?? Is that what you've got there, RickSvt??

Thats what they say....guess we will find out...

Rick

 

[SlowSVT]

Thats what they say....guess we will find out...

Rick

Rick

When you get the car running again use care not to push the engine real hard and get it overly hot for a little while. Let the casting "heat cycle" with many cool-down periods. The will reduce the internal stress's on the head from the casting process. I bet the tick is from some part of the casting expanding too much and distorting the valve geometry. That MAY reduce the chance of future tick issues if there are any.

I've heard guys say they got the dreaded "tick" right after an extended high speed run.

 

[RickSvt]

Thanks for the info.......its not my daily so I will try to keep out of it as long as I can......

Rick

 

[schropper]

How long did they tell you it would take to do the job? Couple hours, ha ha.
The experienced mechanics will probably use your car as teaching tool for all the young up and comers. :bash: All kidding aside, hope the beast is back soon. :beer:

 

[RickSvt]

They didnt give me a time frame. Yeah, I should have it back next week, I told them to take their time....I gotta get my valve covers painted

Rick

 

[SlowSVT]

How long did they tell you it would take to do the job? Couple hours, ha ha.
The experienced mechanics will probably use your car as teaching tool for all the young up and comers. :bash: All kidding aside, hope the beast is back soon. :beer:

schropper :nono: now you got him all paranoid (LOL) I'm sure the auto mechanic nor any the employee's at the dealership has any interest in thrashing his 400 hp supercar.

op:

 

[RickSvt]

supercar..cough cough...lol...thanks for the support....

Rick

 

[mystic04]

It would be of instrest to see who came up with the tick and how the car was broken in. Being in a post before someone said something about the tick comming after a WOT runs and the casting heating up and cooling before you run the car hard, to let things break in and seat.
1. Go like heck from the start
2. take it easy for a few hundered miles or more
I myself took it easy for the first 1000 miles so far no tick. but then i only have about 3000 on the car to date