Poll: 2010 GT500 Going back to stock suspension, few questions...

Which OEM shocks/struts combo to use?


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    7

ShelbyGT5HUN

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Probably in the minority here, but I've HAD IT :mad:

Bought the car used 3 years ago, it came with Eibach Pro Kit lowering springs (1.25" drop). Basically, I'm sick of the ride, and honestly I think there is so little suspension travel now, that the springs are actually worsening the handling, and the car rides like $%#*. Over bumps, is bad too. I have never driven a "stock suspensioned" GT500, so I don't know how soft they came from the factory. I am willing to take the chance and go back to stock, because one of the main reasons I don't drive the car, is it's a joke with it's "welded struts" feel, and almost always getting 1mm away from scraping the front valence.

Personally I think Eibachs are a cheap solution, one step up from cutting the springs. What you gain in drop you lose in suspension travel, and it SHOWS! If you want ride height control, go coil over. Car looks killer, all slammed, but looks don't matter to me. Everyone knows that once you lower the car, you need LCA Relo's, and camber plates (or bolts, which is what the car has now). It's all one big circle of compromises, so I'm going back!

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Questions:

1) Would the SVT Performance Package shocks and struts from the 2011-12 be a better package/upgrade than the non SVTPP shocks that my 2010 came with?

2) I have the stock 2010 springs. Can they be used with the SVTTP shocks, or do I need to buy a new set of SVTPP springs to match the shocks/struts?

3) IIRC, the SVTPP package included a shorter spring and was lowered from the factory? If so, then I do not want a lowered ride. I will then go with all original 2010 stuff.

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I am going to keep the Eibachs and the shocks/struts that are on the car now, as a unit. If I ever decide to go back, or the next owner wants, he will have a complete set to swap in/out vs having to build a strut, etc.

I am also going to keep the adjustable pan hard and Bob's LCA's in place as well.

Thanks
 
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RedVenom48

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My car was equipped with the SVT PP. With the SVT PP shocks and springs all around, I felt the ride was harsh, but probably not as harsh as your Eibach setup. Stance was perfect, in my opinion. However I have the 19x9.5 SVT PP front wheels wrapped in 275/40R19 Sumitomos and 20x9.5" SVT PP rear wheels wrapped in 285/35R20 BFG Comp 2 A/S. The wheel and tire profile fill in the wheel wells nicely.

My CURRENT set up rides, IMO perfectly. Its firm but not harsh. Im running the stock SVT PP front strut (shock/spring) set up and out back I have Viking Warrior DA shocks set at 0C and 2R for the street. Rear springs are Viking 12" 150# with BPS billet perches to adjust back to factory 2011 SVTPP rear ride height. To me, its perfect. For racing at the track, Im going to the Viking recommended 2C 6R settings, but I have yet to make a pass on it.

Arms are BMR 1" rod end UCA and BMR upper mount, BMR solid diff bushing, BMR double adjust rod end LCAs, BMR LCA relo brackets and BMR adjust poly Panhard rod.

For the street, I love how she rides. The stock SVTPP rear springs and shocks are WAYYY too firm and I really found it annoying to drive for extended periods of time. Ill drive this car set up now from coast to coast with zero issues. The stock 2011 SVT PP ride height is perfect to me and is not a detriment to street manners and comfort. Ive never rubbed on a hard launch at the track with either my MT 295/55R15 ET Streets or Nitto NT05r 305/45R18s.
 

Sonic 03 Cobra

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I have a 2011 with the SVTPP stock shocks and springs all around. I have driven it on 18+ hour drives from philly to the Florida panhandle area and never considered the ride overly harsh personally. It's all in your personal taste.

Now the factory seats... different problem.
 

Catmonkey

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I've been running the original SVTPP front springs since the car was delivered. I have changed the back springs on a few different occasions to change the stance. One thing to look for is how much clearance you have between the bump stop and the bracket on the frame at ride height in the rear. If it's less than a 1/2", the car is bottoming out in the rear and making the ride harsher than it needs to be. I'm running Koni sport struts and shocks and the ride is better than the SVTPP struts and shocks. If you're running an iron block, then your ride height could be lower than the SVTPP ride height with the lighter aluminum block. The spring rate is higher than than the standard GT500. Personally, I think the STVPP front springs would be a good compromise. H&R makes a rear spring replacement that has 1/2" drop which would also be a good compromise, if your front and rear tires are close to the same diameter.
 

1Kona_Venom

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sort of an interesting thread. I don't have much input, just kind of reading. Had an '04 Cobra with MM Coilovers and FTBR kit.....THAT IS HARSH compared to my Stock 2012 PP Shelby.

Im putting Team Z suspension componets and Eibach Pros in next week and I dont think its gonna run all that harsh imo.

Sorry just kind of babbling, maybe my post was not needed
 

merkyworks

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My CURRENT set up rides, IMO perfectly. Its firm but not harsh. Im running the stock SVT PP front strut (shock/spring) set up and out back I have Viking Warrior DA shocks set at 0C and 2R for the street. Rear springs are Viking 12" 150# with BPS billet perches to adjust back to factory 2011 SVTPP rear ride height. To me, its perfect. For racing at the track, Im going to the Viking recommended 2C 6R settings, but I have yet to make a pass on it.

Did you notice any negative change in corner handling with this setup?

Would like to smooth out my ride but have resisted changing anything that would negatively impact aggressive street corner handling.
 

RedVenom48

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Not really much of a change that i noticed though admittedly i wasnt really modding for handling.

SVT PP rear springs and the Viking FA Warriors would probably make a killer combo for handling.
 

merkyworks

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Are the Viking 12" 150# Rear springs softer than SVT PP rear springs?

I don't road course the car or anything like that, just want a well rounded car.
 

RedVenom48

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They're softer. The spring coil wire is thinner, but it is a much higher quality spring than factory. I think SVT really brought a pile driver instead of a hammer to control roll with such a big heavy car and the factory arms. Upgraded arms really transform the handling and i think the aggressive rear PP springs and shocks are too much in that setup
 

ZYBORG

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My car was equipped with the SVT PP. With the SVT PP shocks and springs all around, I felt the ride was harsh, but probably not as harsh as your Eibach setup. Stance was perfect, in my opinion. However I have the 19x9.5 SVT PP front wheels wrapped in 275/40R19 Sumitomos and 20x9.5" SVT PP rear wheels wrapped in 285/35R20 BFG Comp 2 A/S. The wheel and tire profile fill in the wheel wells nicely.

My CURRENT set up rides, IMO perfectly. Its firm but not harsh. Im running the stock SVT PP front strut (shock/spring) set up and out back I have Viking Warrior DA shocks set at 0C and 2R for the street. Rear springs are Viking 12" 150# with BPS billet perches to adjust back to factory 2011 SVTPP rear ride height. To me, its perfect. For racing at the track, Im going to the Viking recommended 2C 6R settings, but I have yet to make a pass on it.

Arms are BMR 1" rod end UCA and BMR upper mount, BMR solid diff bushing, BMR double adjust rod end LCAs, BMR LCA relo brackets and BMR adjust poly Panhard rod.

For the street, I love how she rides. The stock SVTPP rear springs and shocks are WAYYY too firm and I really found it annoying to drive for extended periods of time. Ill drive this car set up now from coast to coast with zero issues. The stock 2011 SVT PP ride height is perfect to me and is not a detriment to street manners and comfort. Ive never rubbed on a hard launch at the track with either my MT 295/55R15 ET Streets or Nitto NT05r 305/45R18s.


Please share some pics of your set up.
 

ShelbyGT5HUN

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Catmonkey, good info on the spring rates being matched to the weight of the block, on the SVTPP springs. I never considered that. The extra weight of the iron block would lower the front a little more than the aluminum block would. My initial leaning now, is to go with all original 2010 stuff at this point.

I read elsewhere, the non SVTPP springs, are more "Mercedes AMG" compliant, where the SVTPP springs are more "Porsche / BMW" stiff. I can totally relate to those examples. If I had to choose, I would want the "Touring/GT/Mercedes AMG" feel.

I will be putting a premium summer tire (riding on Invos now) on the car, which I feel will MORE than make up for better handling, than a spring swap would do. Tire compound matters more than anything else, when it comes to handling and traction, than any bolt on suspension piece can deliver.
 

Catmonkey

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The spring rate for the SVTPP front sprints are ~234 lb./in. and the spring rate for the standard model is ~194 lb./in., so that's a good analogy. On the other hand, you could expect less than a 1/4" drop from the heavier engine on the SVTPP springs.
 

Mojo88

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Probably in the minority here, but I've HAD IT :mad: .... I'm sick of the ride, and honestly I think there is so little suspension travel now, that the springs are actually worsening the handling, and the car rides like $%#*. Over bumps, is bad too.....

I'm with you. I hate NVH. I demand a little ride quality. My last two 'toy' cars were Corvettes and they both rode beautifully AND handled superbly, so it IS possible to have your cake and eat it too!
Apologies for no technical support, but I thought some moral support might be appropriate, LOL.
 
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RedVenom48

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If you dont mind spending cash, Viking Performance has their Berserker line of in car tunable shocks. A GT500 set up wouldnt be cheap. but its an option too
 

scotsam

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I installed eibach springs on my 11 several years ago. I found it was pretty stiff mostly in the rear. After seeing how close it was to the rear bump stops I first tried cutting half an inch off I then ran into clearance issues mostly exaust (I have bobs catch can on the rear and I'm using the vent on the left axle tube). So next up installed new bump stops and I found a set of air lift bags on sale ($60) so I added about 6psi and my ride smoothed out considerably. I know kind of a bass ackwards way around it but by stiffening up the spring with the air bags I smoothed out the ride by keeping it off the stops. On a side note I have adjustability at the track and when my wife and daughter load 2 weeks worth of clothes for a 2 day trip lol! P.s. I'm running strange single adjustable shocks and struts.
 

RedVenom48

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how do those strange adjustable front struts do on the track? Do they help prevent dive out of the front of the car during a shift?
 

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