I just want 550 to the wheels on the blower only but don't want to change the lower pulley.
any ideas / thoughts ????
any ideas / thoughts ????
possible to get +550 RWHP safely with Eaton & stock lower?
- Thread starter 68_GT
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I really dont think it can be done on pump. Maybe Look into the snakebite
I have a 2.65 upper and differnt rotors and only made 515 sae
I have a 2.65 upper and differnt rotors and only made 515 sae
talk to posi
you have different rotors ?:??:
Spray
*edit* just saw you said blower only...nm, you could get a posi race port, hes put down the best numbers so far. Headers, exhaust, 2.76, aggressive tune...possible...is it safe though lol...
*edit* just saw you said blower only...nm, you could get a posi race port, hes put down the best numbers so far. Headers, exhaust, 2.76, aggressive tune...possible...is it safe though lol...
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550 rear wheel is very hard to achieve regardless of pulley choice with an eaton. Your gonna need every bolt-on known to man plus a port....and then maybe :beer:
I have sprayI want mid-upper 500's on the Eaton only w/o a lower pulley.
Why ?
I dont get it why do guys want to push the eaton to the max ? it makes no sence to me. Some guys have even done 2-3 diff ports. Just put a bigger blower on it and run lower boost.
Or put a lower on the car. I would be more afraid of the eaton melting down than the crank Snout failing. I have had my lower on for 3 years and beat the piss out of the car for 16kmiles now and no issues.
**** the port go and get a whipple if you are dead set on a port Posi is the way to go. My stieg 4 was a Pos and i got nothing but its tune related as a response from them. Sold it went whipple and love life.
More than very hard actually......Until someone actually does it on legitimate dyno in SAE correction, I'm going to say it ain't going to happen, regardless of boost levels, porting job, supporting mods, etc. We've found over the past 7.5 years that the Eaton M-112 has limitations.
Suggestions would be to work on the suspension to get the power you do have to the ground more efficiently, (most DON'T do this...). And, tasteful weight reduction is the same as adding horsepower. I remove 267 lbs from the car when I go to the track and it feels like a totally different animal. Almost like adding a small shot of nitrous!
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My goal is 550 sae with my new parts. All I have to do is find what is causing my car to eat alternators.
I'm at 541 RWHP with a stage 5 port, 2.76 upper, stock lower, ported heads, stage 3 cams, longtubes, built bottom end, and a bunch of other supporting mods
I'm going to go out on a limb and say this is impossible because I had similar to the same goal and came up short. I'm running a 6lb lower and 2.8 upper with a posi port and dragon and made 520/540 on a conservative tune and dyno with pump (18lbs of boost). My guess is with a more aggressive tune and higher reading dyno it would make more, but not 550. I also have almost every other bolt-on and other mod available. These numbers can be inflated to acheive 550. I am sure of that, but what is the point. The use of ice, racing fuel, and an aggressive tune for dyno only would probably do it. I wanted dyno numbers representing what it would make on the street and track. I do however have a separate tune for 104 octane in which the car made 535/550. You could probably come awfully close to that number running a larger header and higher octane fuel, but I think you would still come up short. To my knowledge, noone has truely made this number yet (without inflating the dyno numbers).
I am however extremely happy with how the car runs regardless. My goal was more for a track time on six-speed which I think I will probably meet. I just need to get the car to 60 ft. Don't listen to these guys telling you to ditch the eaton. It is very possible to have a 10sec (full weight) Cobra still with an eaton. This is my goal. I still have A/C and all the bells and whistles. My car is full weight minus a tubular K-member, coil-overs, and straight axle that came on the car when I purchased it. I hope to make 10's this way. Besides that, the car pulls like crazy on the street which was my main goal. It also runs and drives as good, if not better, than when it left the factory. Good luck.
what do you remove for track?
never mind...just found this
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/terminator-talk-229/419119-weight-reduction-specifics.html:thumbsup:
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/terminator-talk-229/419119-weight-reduction-specifics.html:thumbsup:
I don't want longtubes either lol I hate worrying about scraping, or denting them and the loss of ground clearance, and exhaust leaks.
I've had crazy modified Mustangs in the past I'm not spending the money for a TS blower anytime soon. Too many other priorities and debt right now.
I don't want a lower pulley b/c I'd be another to snap off the crank snout.
I'd be happy with a street driven 10 sec car and the eaton should get me there one way or another anyway especially in my lightweight SN95.
I've had crazy modified Mustangs in the past I'm not spending the money for a TS blower anytime soon. Too many other priorities and debt right now.
I don't want a lower pulley b/c I'd be another to snap off the crank snout.
I'd be happy with a street driven 10 sec car and the eaton should get me there one way or another anyway especially in my lightweight SN95.
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So, basically you want a crazy fast car, but don't want to spend any money or take any chances on breaking anything. Cool, and good luck with that.
Forget it, go twin screw. At that level you would need race fuel, 23-34deg, long tubes and your Iat's would be cooking. STD maybe on total kill with more mods like cams, long tubes and race fuel. It would be short lived.
i agree thats not going to happen. maybe upper and lower with some badass boltons and a very aggresive tune. upper only, its simply not going to get there in a street setup. just be happy with the car on spray. you could try a 2.65 upper if you want to squeeze all you can out of upper only.
I think it could be done but it would take the right car and combo. For instance, I did 526rwhp with a stock lower, 21 or 22 degrees of timing, on pump gas. Mods in sig. Now if I put some longtubes on there along with a offroad X, I'd be willing to bet I could hit 550rwhp. But someone else could have the exact same mods I did and fall short due to other variables. You could dyno in 45 degree air and get some free HP over dynoing in the summer time with same mods. So yeah, Id say it was possible but is cost a factor? You could add ported heads and cams like posted above and that would prolly get you there but would it be cost effective?
TTK, a lot of folks have this goal and have very aggresively gone after it. Just hasn't happened yet.
Totally agree about not ditching the Eaton......ridiculous. It's easy to throw 600 RWHP at these cars and win all the dyno contests. Whupeee. But as a bunch of us have found out, it's pretty satisfying to run 10's with a 500 horsepower Eaton setup.
Should definitley be in the running for 10's with this weight reduction. The K member and SRA will save you 190 lbs and slicks and skinnies will save you another 75 lbs. There's 265 lbs without even taking the "junk in the trunk" or rear seat out.
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