Post your Launch pics here

[SVT CAMR]

This photo was taken on sunday 9/13/09 at an IMSM racing series event. @Great lakes Dragaway. Union Grove Wisconsin. This place hooks! I Won!
Notice the suspension is topped out but the tires are on the ground.

This picture was taken in 2007 at byron dragway in Byron Illinois. (@ another IMSM event) They call it The house of hook & The play ground of power. 2007 Street Intimidator Champ. The difference between this picture and the one above is this one had lakewood 90/10's and the above uses Tokico drag struts. They both seem to work well. Suspension topped out but tires are on the ground. The Tokico drag struts seem to have more travel in them from the way the pictures look.

This was also taken at Byron dragway. it was about 5 years ago... I had Moroso trick front springs on the car. cool picture but the springs suck! you will lose alot of ET yanking the tires off the ground at this power level. I'm glad I got the picture but those springs are history! Test N Tune session.

This one from 9/13/09 surprised me coming out of the burn out box Sunday because the suspension is topped out. I might need to tighten those front struts up! (Dial #1 for fun!) Like I said this track (Da Grove) hooks! Note: I did a real small burn out. It doesn't take alot to get the ET drags stickey for this power level. FYI: Beleive it or not the tokico drag struts are looser than the lakewood 90/10's! The benifit of the 90/10's is the front end will stay up longer through out the first 100 ft. The slicks are 2 years old!

 

[venom1997]

NICE man i have the tokicos as well front and rear whats your settings at? Front and Rear?

 

[Chris _Scott]

this doesn't help me wanting slicks&skinnies as well as a drag setup....and the fact I don't have money to pay for it all..

one day..one day

 

[SVT CAMR]

NICE man i have the tokicos as well front and rear whats your settings at? Front and Rear?

#1 up front and #4 out back.

this doesn't help me wanting slicks&skinnies as well as a drag setup....and the fact I don't have money to pay for it all..

one day..one day

I had 10 years to do all this. Just wish I did it this way in the beginning. Bought the car brand new in March 1998.
I started stocker N/A and I'm still here in the same spot from 6 years ago:sleeping: Everybody else moved on to power adders... now I'm the slow guy:burn:
BTW Nice dyno #s. I wish I had that.

 

[Chris _Scott]

I had 10 years to do all this. Just wish I did it this way in the beginning. You will also have to decide what your plan is with your car and stick to the plan. If you don't it will cost more $ in the end. I started stocker N/A and I'm still here in the same spot from 6 years ago:sleeping: Everybody else moved on to power adders... now I'm the slow guy:burn: but my suspension is working... Mission accomplished!

I plan on staying fully N/A for now..I'm going to just add some bolt-ons and get to 370-380ish rwhp..and do weight reduction and a drag setup..and then save up to forge the motor so I can slap on a whipple and basically just have a mean street car [I already have 03 heads on the car for the swap]

now hopefully I won't keep changing my mind all the time like I have been, lol

 

[venom1997]

im still trying to figure out a good setting so far i tried 1 front 2 back 2 front 2 back for track. street i usually do 2 front 4 back mabey im doing some thing wrong????? What would give me best transfer for the strip 1front 1 rear:shrug:

 

[SVT CAMR]

im still trying to figure out a good setting so far i tried 1 front 2 back 2 front 2 back for track. street i usually do 2 front 4 back mabey im doing some thing wrong????? What would give me best transfer for the strip 1front 1 rear:shrug:

I will assume you are running Dr's correct?
I'm not speaking from experience here but have a reliable source.
try this...set the rear shocks on#1 and the front struts on #1.
Rev the car to 2-3K or maybe even idle...when you take your foot off the clutch let it out real slow yes real slow. Don't worry about reaction time...let the other car take off and you just take your time and see what happens.
Yes when you push down on the back of your car it should be spungy and bouncing up and down. Your biggest problem is the 17" rims and those tight spring rates.

 

[venom1997]

well i hook pretty good with 1 front 2 rear at the track the rear sets down and the front picks up. I will try 1 front 1 rear and hope its even better:beer: BTW i ran on 18 inch bfg drag radials I will run my bigs n littles and hope to get some front hangtime:rockon:

 

[SVT CAMR]

well i hook pretty good with 1 front 2 rear at the track the rear sets down and the front picks up. I will try 1 front 1 rear and hope its even better:beer: BTW i ran on 18 inch bfg drag radials I will run my bigs n littles and hope to get some front hangtime:rockon:

with slicks and skinnys you should keep the fronts on either 1-2 and the backs on between 4-2. 11.5 psi and as low as 10.5.

I usually do it like this fronts #1 and backs on either 4 if the track is good and #2 if the track is greasey. If on the #2 setting the tires start to shake tighten them up. If on the #4 setting the tires spin drop it down to #2. If none of this works you need to look at you spring rates and suspension geometry.

I have never ran the rear shocks on #1.
Sorry about that I thought that you were running Dr's
so the letting the clutch out slowly deal was pertaining to DR's also

 

[venom1997]

with slicks and skinnys you should keep the fronts on either 1-2 and the backs on between 4-2. 11.5 psi and as low as 10.5.

I usually do it like this fronts #1 and backs on either 4 if the track is good and #2 if the track is greasey. If on the #2 setting the tires start to shake tighten them up. If on the #4 setting the tires spin drop it down to #2.

I have never ran the rear shocks on #1.
Sorry about that I thought that you were running Dr's

good info man thanks i will try this out. when im on my 18" DR's i slipp the clutch out of the hole when on 15's i let out hard

 

[SVT CAMR]

I just wanted to touch on this...if the rear of a car is squatting it is actually loosing traction... because it's not the rear squatting... it's really the rear axle rising up into the wheel wells. This happens when your geometry has less than 100% anti squat. Initially spins then hooks. when you have over 100% anti squat you will get what is called separation where it looks like the rear of the car is rising. it is pushing the rear tires into the ground. good thing yes but the tires will unload if there is too much anti squat. Initially hooks then spins.
what you want is some where right around 100% anti squat (AS) then no matter if you have your rear shocks on #2 or even #5 (Tokico's) the rear of your car will not squat or rise... it will stay neutral and the tires will not unload.

Then you can get into instant center. (IC) this will help push you car forward instead of just up. It's all about efficiency here... the least amount of HP to push the car forward. This is achieved with the angles of your upper and lower control arms and goes hand in hand with anti squat.

What we have under these cobra's is basically a poor mans 4 link.

For the reasons stated above is why I went with baseline suspensions upper control arms (street Launch) and J & M products weight jacker lowers (street/Race)
The baseline uppers are pre-engineered to be used with lower control arms that are level with the suspension loaded at race weight. The only way to get the lowers level is to either cut the springs or use weight jackers to dial them in or use a rear coil over kit. You just need some way to raise or lower the rear of the car. Stock springs seem to work well out back and a 150 rate coil over up front for street/strip compromise.
www.baselinesuspensions.com
hotpart.com

 

[98 N/A 4V]

Danny,

I remember when you posted your wheels up (moroso springs) on corral. The thread title was "bob cosby eat your hear out" lol. Back when there were a lot of n/a 4v's running some killer times.

Here is a pic of me when I had eibachs front and rear with 90/10's.

Here is the car with 150lb springs

Up until recently I had noticed that I only had 2.5-3" of travel. You can compare the height from the pic in my sig. I made some adjustments and now I have 5" so the car should now transfer all the weight. but with the eibach springs the nose would rise much faster and the wheels would come off the ground higher than with the 150lb coilovers. These are both with 90/10s's. I'll get some new pics of the launchs on 10/17.

 

[19mustang95]

horrible picture

 

[mmustangsrus]

nice pics guys :beer:

 

[sprayed97]

Mine was kinda weak on street tires spraying a 175 shot went 11.78

 

[BMF42]

Nice pics! 98 N/A 4V did you switch your front setup from eibach drag to coilovers?

 

[94venomV8]

Mine was kinda weak on street tires spraying a 175 shot went 11.78

How are you running that fast and not wearing a helmet? your track must have very loose regulations lol.

 

[98 N/A 4V]

Nice pics! 98 N/A 4V did you switch your front setup from eibach drag to coilovers?

Yep. The first pic was just 90/10's and eibach drag springs. 2nd pick is a full tubular front end with 150's and same 90/10's.

IMO I think the eibach springs are more like a 130 rate spring. As much nose weight I took out I still can't get the car to lift or 60ft like it used to. Either my 150 springs are still too stiff or I just plain suck. LOL.

-Mark

 

[Boostin01Slobra]

Up until recently I had noticed that I only had 2.5-3" of travel. You can compare the height from the pic in my sig. I made some adjustments and now I have 5" so the car should now transfer all the weight. but with the eibach springs the nose would rise much faster and the wheels would come off the ground higher than with the 150lb coilovers. These are both with 90/10s's. I'll get some new pics of the launchs on 10/17.

Quick Question concering travel...

I hear alot of people run fox shocks if they lowered the front, but wouldnt you get alot more travel if you used 94-04 style?

Ive got 175lb coilovers up front(tubular k &a arms) with stock vert springs in the back, is this a decent "poor mans" approach to traction? I will soonly have 90/10's up front and 70/30 out back. I dont run it @ the track much, if ever, just like to get traction on the street

 

[BMF42]

How are you running that fast and not wearing a helmet? your track must have very loose regulations lol.

Yup. 11.7 on street tires, nice run. What did you trap on that run, and what was your 60ft?

IMO I think the eibach springs are more like a 130 rate spring. As much nose weight I took out I still can't get the car to lift or 60ft like it used to. Either my 150 springs are still too stiff or I just plain suck. LOL.

Sorry I don't want to get off course here but, what coilovers are you running? Oh and do you plan on going back to the Eibach drags up front. I have some taking up some space in my garage doing nothing for me. (I might put hem on the car)