Problems after blower switch

[CWD]

Yes you can add fuel with the Predator

I've driven stick shift all my life (im 29) so i guess i know how to drive.
I dont powershift and i let it go failrly easy from the start.

Heres a video from my 12.32 run (judge for yourself)
http://213.115.137.6/daniel/arosburnoutsierra.wmv

When pushing it in 2:nd gear the wheels usually lets go and i burn some rubber.
Right now it doesnt. The car is still fast but somehow i feel that something is missing.

Can i change the A/F myself with the predator?

Nobody in Sweden can tune with the predator.

Follow your instructions on how to add fuel. A Wide Band is of great assistance in this type of situation. Its backwards from what you'd think. My experience is you must spin that ported blower to gain the power you want since it has been ported. You have increased the air flow thru the blower with the port. Add a #2 or #4lb lower as I already noted to get the effect you paid for with the port. With the right tune it will perform. What is your timing at WOT? Don't take questions seriously about driving etc. people are just trying to help you. IMO Charles

 

[overlake]

i think im shifting around the 6k
But i dont throw the gears in.

But thats off the problem, since i shift the same with and without the ported blower.

Is there some trick to feel if the clutch is slipping or the belt is slipping?

I will take the car and check the hp out next week. And in august i can try it at the only shop in Sweden that has a Dynojet.

 

[overlake]

"What is your timing at WOT? "

What is WOT and how do i check the timing?

I take all advices as good advices, i was ironic about the driving skills.

 

[CWD]

Clutch slip

i think im shifting around the 6k
But i dont throw the gears in.

But thats off the problem, since i shift the same with and without the ported blower.

Is there some trick to feel if the clutch is slipping or the belt is slipping?

I will take the car and check the hp out next week. And in august i can try it at the only shop in Sweden that has a Dynojet.

Usually you can check it out in 3rd or 4th gear which will usually tell if it is slipping. Try that. It looks like that could be a possibility.

 

[unit213]

What clutch are you running...stocker?
Are you running any idlers with your 2.8 upper pulley?
Engine bay pic?

Just trying to eliminate problems...sorry for all the questions.

 

[overlake]

Heres 2 of my runs with the ported blower:

http://213.115.137.6/daniel/tullinge1.wmv
http://213.115.137.6/daniel/tullinge2.wmv

Does it look like a ported snake?

 

[overlake]

Stock clutch
gates micro-V belt
Steeda Boost by pass kit
Steeda Cobra idler bracket with pulley

Heres a pic of the engine bay:

 

[CWD]

Ok let me suggest

"What is your timing at WOT? "

What is WOT and how do i check the timing?

I take all advices as good advices, i was ironic about the driving skills.

There are many tuners out there that can easily help you out. To name a few, Amazon, RWTD, Herman and Mile High. All you have to do is to go to their website and request a Predator Custom Tune for your car. You will provide all the necessary information such that they will give you a tune for your car. All the tuners I mentioned are more than qualified to help you out. I suggest you go that route ASAP. If you need specifics on any of those tuners you can fin them on the internet or let me know and I will e-mail a link to you. They will also advise you of any additional mods you may need. Sincerely Charles

 

[unit213]

Heres 2 of my runs with the ported blower:

http://213.115.137.6/daniel/tullinge1.wmv
http://213.115.137.6/daniel/tullinge2.wmv

Does it look like a ported snake?

Definetly sounds like a ported blower. Just to verify, you're crossing
the line in 4th gear right?

I don't mean any disrespect, but your shifting is fairly slow. Still, that's
not the problem. There's something else going on here. Based on your
decent launches, I'm guessing it's not the clutch.

Any fuel mods? I see your still running stock injectors.

 

[CWD]

Nice engine bay!

Stock clutch
gates micro-V belt
Steeda Boost by pass kit
Steeda Cobra idler bracket with pulley

Heres a pic of the engine bay:

However your MAF should be clocked at 10 o'clock not at 12 o'clock. I suggest rotating it back counterclock wise till you get to the 10 O'clock position. Your tuner can and will most likely turn off the boost bypass in the custom tune so the bypass will no longer be needed. Just a few notations. Thanks charles

 

[CWD]

Follow this on booost bypass for now.

http://www.rpmoutlet.com/boost bypassc.htm
Not sure I can tell how you've got the Boost bypass routed from the pic.

 

[unit213]

I'm stumped. For me, step one would be to get a good mail order tune from Sam Bandit. Step two would be to replace the clutch then go from there.
You'll need a BAP and some 55 or 60lb injectors most likely. You should
be making 500rwhp or so. My guess is that the tune is jacked up. The A/F
clearly isn't optimal. I would imagine timing is where it should be either.

Good luck!

 

[overlake]

Wheres the MAF?
What do you meen by rotating it? Just grab it and turn?

Ant links to Sam Bandit? Is this Sam at Steeda?

 

[SA SNAKE]

No Sambandit shop is Milehigh dyno... I have heard great things about his tunes/customer service! Good luck. I think a 2# or 4# lower would get you what you are looking for.

 

[overlake]

No Sambandit shop is Milehigh dyno... I have heard great things about his tunes/customer service! Good luck. I think a 2# or 4# lower would get you what you are looking for.

Any link?

 

[zinc03svt]

I've driven stick shift all my life (im 29) so i guess i know how to drive.
I dont powershift and i let it go failrly easy from the start.

Heres a video from my 12.32 run (judge for yourself)
http://213.115.137.6/daniel/arosburnoutsierra.wmv

When pushing it in 2:nd gear the wheels usually lets go and i burn some rubber.
Right now it doesnt. The car is still fast but somehow i feel that something is missing.

Can i change the A/F myself with the predator?

Nobody in Sweden can tune with the predator.

Dude, in that video you were sending a spray of water up in the air at the end of the run?? Was the track wet? Running through water most certainly will not help quarter mile times.

After reading your original post again you said you where leaving the line at 5000 rpms. How the hell did you do that without slicks?? Drag radials maybe 3500 to 4000k tops.

Have you changed your spark plugs? TR6's at .35 gap seems to be the norm.
Steigmeier recommends on ported blowers a .37 gap.

You can add fuel/air with the Predator, although you need a wideband or a dyno to see what your doing. Order a wideband that plugs into your oxygen sensor on your h/xpipe and tune your air/fuel to 11.5 to 11.8 through 6500 rpms.

Based off of all the things I have read and heard you should be pulling into the 11.80's - 11.90's with your horsepower/ 60 foot times/ plus drag radials or slicks. Some guy's have hit 11.70's on drag radials with some hitiing 11.50's with slicks with 1.6-1.7 60 foot times.

Let me know when your back in S. Florida?

 

[zinc03svt]

I'm stumped. For me, step one would be to get a good mail order tune from Sam Bandit. Step two would be to replace the clutch then go from there.
You'll need a BAP and some 55 or 60lb injectors most likely. You should
be making 500rwhp or so. My guess is that the tune is jacked up. The A/F
clearly isn't optimal. I would imagine timing is where it should be either.

Good luck!

You may be pegging your MAF. You need at SCT 2400 or a Diablo Mafia to extend your MAF counts. You do not need bigger injectors as stated by the gentlemen above. Worst case a Kenne Bell Boost A Pump - but not yet IMO.

The stock MAF will peg somewhere around 470 to 500 hp. That's probably your problem. Call Jared at Lethal Performance - he will get you squared away. :rockon:

 

[overlake]

But Jared told me i didnt need anything with my setup.
i will give him a call tomorrow.
I will also check the milehidyno.com page for answers.
Cant i extend the MAF counts with my predator?

 

[racebronco2]

just to compare our two times. on street tires launching at 2000rpm the best 60' times were 1.95 and 12.57 at 112, with et streets best was 12.01@116 launching at 4500 rpms and going thru the lights in 4th. we have similar set-ups. so maybe you are also shifting too high rpms. found that if i shifted at about 5800 i could get a better et/mph.

 

[overlake]

After reading your original post again you said you where leaving the line at 5000 rpms. How the hell did you do that without slicks?? Drag radials maybe 3500 to 4000k tops.

Have you changed your spark plugs? TR6's at .35 gap seems to be the norm.
Steigmeier recommends on ported blowers a .37 gap.

Thats why i thought it might be the clutch, 5000rpm and no wheelspin, just pure grab...315 Nittos. But i didnt feel as neck breaking as it should.

What model spark plugs should i get?

btw, sorry for my bad english, im swedish and i mostly learn the "car talk" from theese forums.