ProChamber Installed

GIDIEUP

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Just wanted to let you know I FINALLY received and installed my ProChamber! Kinda a funny story. I ordered it from MAC's HQ. At first they told me it was on backorder. I called back 2 weeks later and they told me it would be another 30 days. I asked them if they knew of any other place I could order one from. Since being in Columbus,Ohio they referred me to the Dayton, Ohio distribution area. I spoke with someone and they said they had an ample supply. I don't think I have been happier in my life:) Well maybe when I was unwrapping a present at age 5, but it was close. The very next day it arrived. It was installed the next day. Easy bolt on. no problems, no exhaust leaks, and one BAD ARSS Sound! It has a nice deep rumble (like an old 5.0) around 1 1/2K -3K RPM. To be honest I really can not feel that much of a HP increase, but it surely did not take away. I'm just happy because of the way it sounds.

Cheers:beer:
Ryan
 

peterjmc

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yea it does sound awesome! Which mil elims did you use if you used any?

The sweet spot with my combo is around 2.5-3k it sounds so sweet. The FR500 makes it quieter than it should be, it sounds very stock at idle. Just the way I like it... sleepy.

I do get a lot of resonance from 1.5.1.9k kind of gets annoying sometimes. Especially when I have a girly in the car.
 

GIDIEUP

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Originally posted by peterjmc
yea it does sound awesome! Which mil elims did you use if you used any?

The sweet spot with my combo is around 2.5-3k it sounds so sweet. The FR500 makes it quieter than it should be, it sounds very stock at idle. Just the way I like it... sleepy.

I do get a lot of resonance from 1.5.1.9k kind of gets annoying sometimes. Especially when I have a girly in the car.

You'll have to help me out. What are mil elims? Are those the o2 sensor to use to eliminate the engine light from coming on? If so, I haven't had any problems yet *knock knock*

That's funny. I kinda like the drone sound. but I hear you, it's damn loud:p

Ryan
 

adamb258

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i was thinking of getting a prochamber to go with my flows bu i wasnt sure how tuff the installation would be( i would like to do it myself ) any advice on thow to do this would be great
 

GIDIEUP

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Originally posted by adamb258
i was thinking of getting a prochamber to go with my flows bu i wasnt sure how tuff the installation would be( i would like to do it myself ) any advice on thow to do this would be great

I have helped install 4-5 pipes. Although I did not install this one this time the process is still the same.

The hardest part of the installation is the passanger side manifold. Be sure you have a swivel to take the bolts off. There are just basically 8 bolts that you need to undo. Also make sure you disconnect the o2 sensers before you start unscrewing them. The one on the right side has very little slack. You may have to disconnect the wire to the o2 sensor by the engine in order for it to fit the ProChamber o2 slot. As always make sure you have everything in place before you bolt it up tightly. Having a car stand is a BIG plus!

If you go ProChamber you won't be disappointed. You can read reviews at http://reviews.stangnet.com/review.cgi?ID=147

Hope this helps!
Cheers:beer:
Ryan
 

Sully99SVT

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Originally posted by GIDIEUP
You'll have to help me out. What are mil elims? Are those the o2 sensor to use to eliminate the engine light from coming on? If so, I haven't had any problems yet *knock knock*


Ryan


I've heard that it generally takes about 200 miles before the engine light will come on. You should look into getting a set of MIL's soon. You can usually find someone selling them on the Corral website. There's a couple different kinds. The ones from PEP you have to splice those in. They generally run about 30 bucks for the set. The other kind are ones that you just plug in and they run about 60 bucks for the set.

I was lucky enough to find someone on Corral selling a set of the plug-in type and he put on a car to make a few dyno runs and then took them right off. I got them for 35 bucks shipped.

Or, you can get a new chip and have it burned for your application. This is a bit expensive, but if you plan on doing many more mods, it's worth it. Plus, if you get the right chip, you can send it back to them to have re-burned if you make a mod that needs it, and they won't charge you for the re-burn. I can't remember right off hand who that chip was from, but I read the reviews about it on Stangnet.

Hope this help!! :beer:
 

GIDIEUP

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Originally posted by Sully99SVT
I've heard that it generally takes about 200 miles before the engine light will come on. You should look into getting a set of MIL's soon. You can usually find someone selling them on the Corral website. There's a couple different kinds. The ones from PEP you have to splice those in. They generally run about 30 bucks for the set. The other kind are ones that you just plug in and they run about 60 bucks for the set.

I was lucky enough to find someone on Corral selling a set of the plug-in type and he put on a car to make a few dyno runs and then took them right off. I got them for 35 bucks shipped.

Or, you can get a new chip and have it burned for your application. This is a bit expensive, but if you plan on doing many more mods, it's worth it. Plus, if you get the right chip, you can send it back to them to have re-burned if you make a mod that needs it, and they won't charge you for the re-burn. I can't remember right off hand who that chip was from, but I read the reviews about it on Stangnet.

Hope this help!! :beer:

What happens if I don't get MILs other than the check engine light stays on?
 

trplblacksnake

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you NEED to get the MIL eliminators. When the engine light comes on your car kicks into "safety mode" it richens your fuel ratio and a number of other things. Makes your car run like shit.
 

GIDIEUP

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Originally posted by trplblacksnake
you NEED to get the MIL eliminators. When the engine light comes on your car kicks into "safety mode" it richens your fuel ratio and a number of other things. Makes your car run like shit.

Not saying I don't believe you but can you direct me to a website that says that. I have heard the car stays in full loop from this. Any info would be appriciated. I know they light stays on which might keep me from seeing additional errors, but i have never heard of what you are taking about. Not saying you are wrong, just never heard of it. but hell, I didn't know MILs were either. My 92LX and 95 Cobra never had a problem with the check engine light coming on.

Cheers:beer:
Ryan
 

adamb258

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the mil eliminators are for use on the 96 - up cars. i guess that pre 96 cars just didnt have the prob i know my friend with an 88 Gt doesnt have them and it is not a problem for him
 

GIDIEUP

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Originally posted by GIDIEUP
Not saying I don't believe you but can you direct me to a website that says that. I have heard the car stays in full loop from this. Any info would be appriciated. I know they light stays on which might keep me from seeing additional errors, but i have never heard of what you are taking about. Not saying you are wrong, just never heard of it. but hell, I didn't know MILs were either. My 92LX and 95 Cobra never had a problem with the check engine light coming on.

Cheers:beer:
Ryan

Can anyone provide a website that says if you don't have MILs you will lose performance and your car will run crappy? If my check engine light doesn't come on then there is not reason to buy the MILs even though they are only 30 bucks.

Any content would be helpful.

Cheers:beer:
Ryan
 

peterjmc

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Originally posted by GIDIEUP
You'll have to help me out. What are mil elims? Are those the o2 sensor to use to eliminate the engine light from coming on? If so, I haven't had any problems yet *knock knock*

Ryan

Wow strange... It took about 15 minutes for my car to register the MIL.
 

raider187

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Originally posted by GIDIEUP
Can anyone provide a website that says if you don't have MILs you will lose performance and your car will run crappy? If my check engine light doesn't come on then there is not reason to buy the MILs even though they are only 30 bucks.

Any content would be helpful.

Cheers:beer:
Ryan

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2408867874&category=6771

These are about 40 bucks, they're plug and play, no Splicing required!

I purchased the set at the link below a few weeks ago, and they work like a champ. You can send the guy a email and he'll hook you up.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6771&item=2406561936&rd=1
 
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2FST4GM

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The 96+ cars run EEC-V with OBD-II. This means the computer is checking the exhaust before AND after the cats. Pre-96 cars use EEC-IV and no OBD checking exhaust after the cats. If the MIL kicks in, the fuel will richen and the timing the retard for "safety" reasons. Your car will noticably run poorer. Get the MIL eliminators of you're running off-road pipes (H or X).
 

GIDIEUP

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Originally posted by 2FST4GM
The 96+ cars run EEC-V with OBD-II. This means the computer is checking the exhaust before AND after the cats. Pre-96 cars use EEC-IV and no OBD checking exhaust after the cats. If the MIL kicks in, the fuel will richen and the timing the retard for "safety" reasons. Your car will noticably run poorer. Get the MIL eliminators of you're running off-road pipes (H or X).

Thanks for the info. Could you provide me a link to back up what you are saying? I had my mechanic tell me that I did not have to worry about the MILs. Not saying he is right either. I would just like some documentation.

Thanks,
Ryan
 

GIDIEUP

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Originally posted by GIDIEUP
Thanks for the info. Could you provide me a link to back up what you are saying? I had my mechanic tell me that I did not have to worry about the MILs. Not saying he is right either. I would just like some documentation.

Thanks,
Ryan

I found an interesting read but it still doesn't tell me much. Mentions that if the exhaust is not sealed tighly it will cause the check engine light to come on.
http://www.corral.net/tech/maintenance/actron-cp9035.html
 

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