Hey SVTP
This is my first build ever. For those of you that already know me, I am very particular and have a horrible sickness called OCD. LOL
I'm very particular and try not to cut corners.
It makes my life pretty miserable but my projects turn out pretty damn legit. LOL
I am a perfectionist and i'm pretty anal about cleanliness.
Kind of excited to see the outcome.
I will give you a little history on my car before I unload all the pictures.
I am the second owner of a beautiful 1997 Cobra. I purchased the car 3 years ago with 37K original miles and now the car has 41K. The car is flawless and has been garaged for most of the 12 years. I now keep it in my buddies Hangar along with our other toys at a local airport and work on it every weekend.
The reason why I started this project in the first place was becuase of a leaky oil pan & I was pushing my stock bottom end to its limits at 480RWHP. Pretty much pulled the pin on a grenade and was waiting for some sort of explosion and an oily mess on the pavement. I've been saving my money and I decided to start a one of a kind build. The problem is, one thing leads to another and makes the bill much more expensive.
OEM B Head work to be done:
Definitely having FoxLake Racing work on my heads.
Stage 3 CNC 5 Axis Port & Polish
SS Ferrera Valves
Bronze Valve Guides
Titanium Valve Springs & Retainers
Stock 97 Cams
Every bolt replaced with ARP
OEM Short Block work to be done:
OEM Teksid Block-.10 over
9:0-9:5 Compression Ratio
Forged I or H Beam Rods
Diamond Pistons-Ceramic Top Coating/Teflon Side Skirts/Notched
Possible Stroker Motor-Not Sure Yet
Every bolt replaced with ARP
ALKY Control Meth Injection[Dual-Nozzle]
My goal is 600-650 RWHP
Every OEM bolt/nut/washer on the engine and suspension has been replaced!! I'm not kdding either. Almost every single OEM bolt has been taking off the car. This is what took me the most amount of time. I've been working with Dave over at ProWeld on sizes and thread pitches.
Pro Weld Performance Parts
All the engine bolts are Allen Head Stainless Steel and all the suspension bolts are Allen Head Grade 12 Black Oxide.
Just about all old and new parts have been powdercoated. I've spent over $1200 in powdercoating. Nothing in my engine bay will look old or worn out.
Here is the eye candy!!
Right before the start of Project OCD
And the fun begins
All recyclable trash:rockon:
My OCD Table's full of top of the line HP Partsepper:
BGG 8 Rib Setup with 10% Overdrive Crank
Vortech Si-Trim with huge Turbonetic's FMIC (3.1" Ultra Grip Pulley)
"Big Red" Bypass Valve(Open)
60# injectors
Accufab Race TB
Custom Anderson Power Pipe Powder-Coated Silver
Custom Oil Catch Can
Red Monster's COP Harness
03 Cobra Coils
etc
New Vortech V1 Si-Trim Supercharger Head Unit
IW 10% Overdrive 8 Rib Crank Pulley
Set of 03 Cobra Valve Covers purchased from SVTP Member 03DSGSnake
Had them powdercoated Ford Wrinkle Blue through Action Powdercoating
Canton Power Steering Res. -Before-
After
Bung welded on Canton RR Pan for Blower Return
Oil Pan was then fully flat clear-coated to protect Zinc Finish
Intake Manifold -Before-
-After-
I even powder coated my EGR Valve silver and flat black.
Coolant Crossover Tube "Head Cooling Mod" -Before-
Powder-Coated and Clear Coated. New Sensors and XRP Fitting -After-
Some of the Stainless Hardware & XRP Fittings
More Stainless Hardware! ;-)
Maximum Motorsport K Member Package (Street)
Powder-Coated front Sway Bar and Sway Bar Brackets
Bilstein HD Struts w/300lb Springs
Grade 12 Strut Bolts and Nuts
Grade 12 K-Member Bolts
Brand New OEM 04 Cobra Rack and Pinion from Tousley Ford (Thanks Steve)
Grade 12 Steering Rack Bolts
MM Bumpsteer Kit and Solid Rack Bushings
MM Caster Camber Plates
Power Slot Rotors
Hawk HPS Pads
MM Steel Braided Lines
Speed-Bleeders
New Motorcraft Hub Nuts and Hub Dust Caps
Stainless Steel Guide pin and Anti-Rattle Clips
New OEM Powder-Coated Dust Sheilds
Powder-Coated Spindles
Powder-Coated Cobra Calipers and Brackets (Color-Mirror Red) (Thanks Mike from ThePowdercoater.com)
New Timken Hubs with ARP Studs
Suspension and Brakes all Installed
Merchandise!
0 Gauge with Braided Wrap
Tools and Supplies!
Door Panels taken off and prepped for Dynamat
Trunk area covered best I could.
MB Quart Crossovers installed in door panel foam with Weaterpak connectors
-Before-
-After-
Speaker adapters in place and MB Quart 6.5" installed
MB Quart Tweeters installed with adapters
WeatherPak connectors clipped in and Door Panels installed
New Battery Tray and Stainless Hardware
0 Gauge and 8 Gauge Firewall Gromets installed underneathe plastic fender trim.
0 Gauge for Amps and 8 Gauge for Fuel Pumps
4 Gauge rubber grommet for custom glovebox fuse panel
AudioControl Line driver mounted on old Mach 460 amp bracket. Used ABS panel to mount
Custom Fuse panel I had made for my future Glenns Performance Dual Walbro Kit
Panel was made by Tony at CE Auto Electric Supply - Home
Found a neat place to mount it
Put a kill switch on the Fuel Pump Fuse Panel. Just a little something for a little extra security. Can't disclose where I put the switch!
Ran the Dual 10 Gauge wires from the Fuse Panel through the trunk grommet to the fuel pumps.
I had a custom Fuse Panel made to fit inside the Glovebox. This fuse panel powers all my Autometer Gauges, Methanol Injection, Kenne Bell Ignition, Autometer LED Dimmer, Autometer RPM Module for my Shift Light, and my AudioControl Line Driver. It also has empty spots for future needs.
It has 3 Relays. 2 of them are for Switched 12V Ignition and 1 is for Accessory.(Key turned all the way back)
It is powered by a 4 Gauge lead coming from the battery. MAX Amps is 100. It also has its own ground lug as well.
Here is a pic of the Custom Glove Box Fuse Panel
Here is a LED Voltage Gauge Mod I just finished. Turned out awesome!
Link to full write-up...
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/sn95-cobras-24/878312-sn95-clock-voltage-gauge-mod-pics.html
I purchased a few LED Voltage Indicators from eBay. They came in a few different colors. I ended up using the Blue one
Here is the OEM Housing and Clock removed. It is held on by a few Torx screws.
I then took the back portion of clock apart and used a dremel to remove the OEM LED Clock and cut the ribbon cable attached to it.
Fully installed ready to bolt into the housing.
Stock OEM Clock for comparison
Couldnt be happier with how it came out. It looks and fits great! It's bright and perfectly centered too.
Mounted to Dashboard and wired up. My LED indicator is measuring the voltage directly from the battery. I have a 4 Gauge lead coming from the battery to a custom fuse panel in my glovebox.
Had these Terminals Custom made from a guy named Anthony. He also is known by the name "ToolMaker". He is pretty popular if you do a search. His work is nothing but amazing. Everything fit perfect and the CNC work was flawless. These terminals took 1.5 months to make. The guy was extremely busy with other projects but I wasn't in a hurry. The cost was $90 for both, which was suprisingly cheap. They were all his design but I told him exactly what I wanted and he nailed it.
The POSITIVE Terminal:
0 AWG - JL Audio Fuseblock
0 AWG - JL Audio Dist. Block (100A -Custom FP in Glove Box)(30amp Fuel Pump FP)
0 AWG - OEM Fuse Panel
4 AWG -Alterrnator Lead
10 AWG -Battery Tender
The NEGATIVE Terminal:
0 AWG - Chassis Ground
4 AWG - Starter
4 AWG - Engine Block Ground
10 AWG - Battery Tender
I'm trying to keep everything in order but there are way too many pics to keep track of. I did my best.
New MB Quart Rear Speakers and Dynamat.
6x8 MB Quart speakers
OEM Mach 460 Deck removed
Rear speakers installed using JL Audio 16 AWG wire. (used Dynamat to secure wires to deck)
License plate Dynamat.
Removed tail lights to clean, install more Dynamat, and replace 12 year old bulbs
This is probably pointless but i have so much left over
Polished up tail lights, new bulbs and new hardware
Speed of Sound Pillar Pod, Autometer Steering Column Pod, Autometer Phantom Gauges, Blue LED Bulbs, and different color wiring for Positive/Negative, and sending units.
One of my favorite pieces: Custom Din slot Gauge/Switch Panel. Made by GaugePlates.com
I supplied the Aircraft Toggle Covers ($25 each) and switches. None of that Pep Boys, Performance Store crap. I then had them laser etched.
Speed of Sound Pod all ready to install.
Autometer RPM Module, Autometer Shift Light, Autometer LED Dimmer, Shift Light Extension Harness.
Autometer Shift Light and Dual Color LED mounted. (LED is for my ALKY Control Meth Injection)
The Mustang Glove Box is a joke. I decided to cut some of it off to mount the RPM Module and LED Dimmer. (LED Dimmer is for all Autometer Gauges)
Custom Fuse Panel that sits just inside the Glovebox. This panel was made by Tony at CE Auto Electric Supply - Home
This panel is Power and Ground for every aftermarket accesory in the car. It is fed by a 4AWG cable straight from the battery. 100 AMPS total. There are 3 relays: 1 is 12V Accesory (Key Turned Backwards) and the other 2 are 12V Ignition (Key Turned Forwards)
I have a few open circuits for anything else I want to run in the car at a later date.
Panel Installed. (The screws that hold the panel down haven't been tightened yet)(Sorry for the blurry pic)
Aeroforce Interceptor Scan Gauge (Purchased this to monitor my Air Charge Temp)(I wanted it next to my Methanol "Turn On" LED)
Matches nicely! Up above is a Raptor Warning Light (Red Cover) This is my Methanol Low Level LED light.
SOS Pod Mounted
I mounted my Methanol Injection Controler next to the Shifter with Industrial Velcro. I drilled a small hole in the center console, installed a rubber grommet and ran the cable cleanily.
My Cockpit
Very Happy with how everything came out
Bilstein HD Rear Shocks
Bilsteins installed. Gotta love my tailpipe/turndowns!
FIORE FireWall Adjuster and FireWall cleaned up.
Sorry about my crappy iPhone 5 pics. The Rear Seat Delete is finished in dark black carpet. It's the same color as the other OEM carpet. It's not grey like the pics depict.[/U]
Corbeau CR1's in Black Suede.
Corbeau Double Locking Sliders w/Stainless Hardware.
New Floor Mats.
Custom Rear Seat Delete by Keith at Welcome to K Dezines!
The Rear Seat Delete in its earlier stages.
I ended up using a Black Fleck Stone Paint (textured) on the amp cover instead of the satin powder-coated piece you see in the pic below.
JL Logo was done in brushed Aluminum with Stainless Allen Head Screws.
I also had the plexiglass drilled and countersunk to attach the amp cover pieces together. I then used stainless hardware to join the two.
Here are the amps without the plexi piece layed down. I also have Blue LED's around the plexi but I'm not happy how they look so i'm changing it.
Notice the LED Switch behind the driver seat on the front board.
Here are the LED's with the plexi off. I will add more pics of the kit lit up later.
SVT logo was CNC'd out of aluminum and Powder-coated Black. Bottom part of logo was brushed to match the JL logo on the plexiglass and to match the JL amps. Logo is also held in place with Stainless hardware.
Rear Seat Delete fully installed. It's very lightweight and weighs slightly more than the rear seats. On the inside of the kit directly behind the heat sinks of both JL amps are 3 high flow fans cooling them down. The fans are powered off a relay and come on with the amps.
The reason I went with Keith at Kdezines is... He has the only Rear Seat Delete with a flush back piece! Its by far the best looking kit I could find. If you check his website he sells these kits without the amp rack.
The kit comes with a cover to hide the amps if you don't want them seen.
Powder-coated Differential (Semi Gloss Black Hammer)
Welded, pinned, and straightened Axle Tubes.
Superior 31 Spline Axles with 3.5" ARP Studs
Eaton TrueTrac Locker
New Bearings and Axle Seals
ARP Main Bearing Cap Stud Kit
ARP Ring Bolts
OEM Pinnion Flange
New ABS Rings
3 Quarts 85/140 Lucas Gear Oil
LubeLocker Diff Gasket
Ford Racing 410 Gears
T/A Performance Girdle with Stainless Hardware
Everything was Professionally put together by a local shop.
I decided to powder-coat it Black Hammer Semi Gloss. It turned out great!
New Diff breather and a close up. Straightened and Welded the Axle tubes.
New Pinnion Flange.
I Grinded off the ugly Quad Shock Bracket for a smooth look.
Eaton TrueTrac and FRP 410 Gears installed.
ARP Main Cap Stud Kit
ARP Ring Bolts
Axles installed, Backing Plate installed, ABS Rings pressed on, Anti-Moan Brace Installed, and ARP Studs pressed in.
T/A Performance Girdle, Magnetic Drain Plug, LubeLocker Gasket, Stainless Hardware.
Maximum Motorsports Extreme Duty Adjustable Lower Control Arms with Torque Arm Springs.
Urethane Isolators and MM LCA Bolt Kit.
Maximum Motorsports Pinnion Snubber.
Differential, Bilstein Shocks, MM LCA's, Torque springs all installed.
I also used 2 cans of 3M Rubberized Undercoating underneathe.
PowerSlot Brake Rotors
Powder-coated Cobra Calipers and Brackets
Hawk HPS BRake Pads
J&M Stainless Rear Brake Lines with New Banjo Bolts/Washers
Stainless Speed Bleeders
New Military Grade Socket Head Bolts for Brackets
OEM Brake Shields Powdercoated Silver with Stainless Hardware
Stainless Socket Head Bolts for ABS Sensors
Stainless Anti-Rattle clips
Centric Caliper Rebuild Kits
Duralast Brake Hardware Kit
Motorcraft Caliper Grease
New E-Brake Brackets and Powder-coated ABS Sensor Wire Holders.
Brake Sheilds and ABS Sensors installed.
Rotors and Brake Brackets installed.
I rebuilt both Calipers entirely, and getting ready to install them.
Calipers and Brake Lines Installed.
Maximum Motorsports PanHard Bar.
PanHard Bar Installed.
Weld Racing Weldstar RT in Black
BeadLock Upgrade
15X10 6.5" Backspace
Weld Open Ended Lugs
Without Beadlock.
With Beadlock.
Mickey Thompson Drag Radials in 325/50/15.
Tires Mounted and Balanced.
For those of you who are curious how big these tires are.
Here they are layed up against my civic.
Filled them bastards up with Nitrogen. Got these metal caps off eBay.
Mounted on the car.
Progressive ALKY Control Methanol Kit.
Kit can be purchased here- http://alkycontrol.com/
Julio from ALKY Control has been very helpful and customer Service is top notch!!
Here is the 4 Gallon Tank Setup....
Modified Pump, Low Level Float, Feed Line, Cap w/Stainless Hardware.
Everything is Brass to resist corrosion besides the Stainlesss Cap Hardware.
PAC Progressive controller, Turn On LED etc etc
MAP Sensor which is tied into my boost Gauge Vacuum Line under my dash.
Had my Fab guy make me a Tank mount. It's a bit overkill, but I love the design.
Here is a pic of all the mounts used to secure it to the trunk. I Powder-coated everything texture black. I had Keith from Welcome to K Dezines! make me a spare tire Mount Plate to bolt the Meth Tank Mount to. Keith makes these Trunk Plates normally for a Trunk mounted Battery or Nitrous Bottle.
Here is everything layed out. Keith also made me a custom false floor for a clean and flush look. The grey carpet matches the trunk interior perfectly. Stainless Hardware and aluminum rivets as well.
After attacking all the wiring up front, I ran the pump wires along the passenger side fender well and secured it with Adel clamps. The PAC Controller is mounted behind my radio.
I test fit the Tank and mocked it up in its Mount.
Spare Tire Mount Plate riveted to the trunk.
Methanol Tank Mount fastened to Spare Tire Mount Plate using Stainless Hardware.
Tank/Pump secured and Feed Line Mocked up. Wires are mostly hidden and zip tied off the trunk floor just in case of a leak.
I used male/female connnectors so I can easily unhook the Meth Tank and remove from the car if needed.
Breather/Vapor Line installed
Breather Line routed through trunk firewall and secured with zip ties underneath car.
I used a few Stainless Adel Clamps and a Grommet for the hole.
Breather Element at the end of the Breather/Vapor Line
False floor installed, and Trim Ring about to be put in. I have lots of room to work with if needed. The False Floor fits my trunk almost perfect. I give it a 9.5 out of 10
Trim Ring in place. Very happy with how clean it looks.
My Custom Meth/Amp Panel below my Radio. Real Aircraft covers and ON/OFF Toggle Switchs.
The Amp switch only shuts off my Sub amp. I had the Aircraft Covers Laser Etched for labeling purposes.
Panel made by Gaugeplates.com, your home for custom gauge and switch panels and custom emblems.
Aircraft covers can be purchased here- Pilot Supplies and Aircraft Parts from Aircraft Spruce
Methanol Injection Turned ON.
Meth Controller ON and attached to my dash next to my shifter for easy access.
When the "TEST" Button is depressed the Pump will turn on and the "Turn On LED" will glow RED. This button is only used so you know the system works...
I'm using a Raptor Warning light above my Cluster to let me know when my tank is empty. My car wont be drivable for awhile so no sense in filling my tank up yet, hence why the LED is lit. There is also a bi-color LED (Green/Red) on my steering Column Pod that illuminates RED when the "TEST" button is pressed and "GREEN" when the kit actually turns on while driving.
I positioned the "Turn On LED" next to my Aeroforce Interceptor Gauge so I can monitor my Intake Charge Temps. Once that "TEST" button is pushed my IAT's should drop.
Warning Lights can be purchased here- Shift Lights by Raptor Performance
Since i'm running 15" Wheels, I had to mod a few items to make sure they fit correctly.
From Left to Right.
OEM Banjo Bolts/Earls Banjo Bolts/Maximum Motorsports Banjo Bolts.
The Maximum Motorsport's bolts are way too short.
Here are the OEM bolts vs Earls.
Took my angle grinder and took some of the metal away where it was contacting the wheel. I had to grind the bolt and part of the brake line. I really hoped the Low Profile Earls's Banjo Bolts would of cleared, but it still rubbed. It sure beats grinding down the OEM Banjo Bolts though. :-/
It doesn't get any closer than this!!! The rubber cap on the bleed valve does rub though. I might have to do without them or find lower profile bleed screws.
Finally got a chance to bolt up the wheels after modding my Brake Lines and Banjo bolts.
Got my new License Plate!!
This is my first build ever. For those of you that already know me, I am very particular and have a horrible sickness called OCD. LOL
I'm very particular and try not to cut corners.
It makes my life pretty miserable but my projects turn out pretty damn legit. LOL
I am a perfectionist and i'm pretty anal about cleanliness.
Kind of excited to see the outcome.
I will give you a little history on my car before I unload all the pictures.
I am the second owner of a beautiful 1997 Cobra. I purchased the car 3 years ago with 37K original miles and now the car has 41K. The car is flawless and has been garaged for most of the 12 years. I now keep it in my buddies Hangar along with our other toys at a local airport and work on it every weekend.
The reason why I started this project in the first place was becuase of a leaky oil pan & I was pushing my stock bottom end to its limits at 480RWHP. Pretty much pulled the pin on a grenade and was waiting for some sort of explosion and an oily mess on the pavement. I've been saving my money and I decided to start a one of a kind build. The problem is, one thing leads to another and makes the bill much more expensive.
OEM B Head work to be done:
Definitely having FoxLake Racing work on my heads.
Stage 3 CNC 5 Axis Port & Polish
SS Ferrera Valves
Bronze Valve Guides
Titanium Valve Springs & Retainers
Stock 97 Cams
Every bolt replaced with ARP
OEM Short Block work to be done:
OEM Teksid Block-.10 over
9:0-9:5 Compression Ratio
Forged I or H Beam Rods
Diamond Pistons-Ceramic Top Coating/Teflon Side Skirts/Notched
Possible Stroker Motor-Not Sure Yet
Every bolt replaced with ARP
ALKY Control Meth Injection[Dual-Nozzle]
My goal is 600-650 RWHP
Every OEM bolt/nut/washer on the engine and suspension has been replaced!! I'm not kdding either. Almost every single OEM bolt has been taking off the car. This is what took me the most amount of time. I've been working with Dave over at ProWeld on sizes and thread pitches.
Pro Weld Performance Parts
All the engine bolts are Allen Head Stainless Steel and all the suspension bolts are Allen Head Grade 12 Black Oxide.
Just about all old and new parts have been powdercoated. I've spent over $1200 in powdercoating. Nothing in my engine bay will look old or worn out.
Here is the eye candy!!
Right before the start of Project OCD
And the fun begins
All recyclable trash:rockon:
My OCD Table's full of top of the line HP Parts
epper:BGG 8 Rib Setup with 10% Overdrive Crank
Vortech Si-Trim with huge Turbonetic's FMIC (3.1" Ultra Grip Pulley)
"Big Red" Bypass Valve(Open)
60# injectors
Accufab Race TB
Custom Anderson Power Pipe Powder-Coated Silver
Custom Oil Catch Can
Red Monster's COP Harness
03 Cobra Coils
etc
New Vortech V1 Si-Trim Supercharger Head Unit
IW 10% Overdrive 8 Rib Crank Pulley
Set of 03 Cobra Valve Covers purchased from SVTP Member 03DSGSnake
Had them powdercoated Ford Wrinkle Blue through Action Powdercoating
Canton Power Steering Res. -Before-
After
Bung welded on Canton RR Pan for Blower Return
Oil Pan was then fully flat clear-coated to protect Zinc Finish
Intake Manifold -Before-
-After-
I even powder coated my EGR Valve silver and flat black.
Coolant Crossover Tube "Head Cooling Mod" -Before-
Powder-Coated and Clear Coated. New Sensors and XRP Fitting -After-
Some of the Stainless Hardware & XRP Fittings
More Stainless Hardware! ;-)
Maximum Motorsport K Member Package (Street)
Powder-Coated front Sway Bar and Sway Bar Brackets
Bilstein HD Struts w/300lb Springs
Grade 12 Strut Bolts and Nuts
Grade 12 K-Member Bolts
Brand New OEM 04 Cobra Rack and Pinion from Tousley Ford (Thanks Steve)
Grade 12 Steering Rack Bolts
MM Bumpsteer Kit and Solid Rack Bushings
MM Caster Camber Plates
Power Slot Rotors
Hawk HPS Pads
MM Steel Braided Lines
Speed-Bleeders
New Motorcraft Hub Nuts and Hub Dust Caps
Stainless Steel Guide pin and Anti-Rattle Clips
New OEM Powder-Coated Dust Sheilds
Powder-Coated Spindles
Powder-Coated Cobra Calipers and Brackets (Color-Mirror Red) (Thanks Mike from ThePowdercoater.com)
New Timken Hubs with ARP Studs
Suspension and Brakes all Installed
Merchandise!
0 Gauge with Braided Wrap
Tools and Supplies!
Door Panels taken off and prepped for Dynamat
Trunk area covered best I could.
MB Quart Crossovers installed in door panel foam with Weaterpak connectors
-Before-
-After-
Speaker adapters in place and MB Quart 6.5" installed
MB Quart Tweeters installed with adapters
WeatherPak connectors clipped in and Door Panels installed
New Battery Tray and Stainless Hardware
0 Gauge and 8 Gauge Firewall Gromets installed underneathe plastic fender trim.
0 Gauge for Amps and 8 Gauge for Fuel Pumps
4 Gauge rubber grommet for custom glovebox fuse panel
AudioControl Line driver mounted on old Mach 460 amp bracket. Used ABS panel to mount
Custom Fuse panel I had made for my future Glenns Performance Dual Walbro Kit
Panel was made by Tony at CE Auto Electric Supply - Home
Found a neat place to mount it
Put a kill switch on the Fuel Pump Fuse Panel. Just a little something for a little extra security. Can't disclose where I put the switch!
Ran the Dual 10 Gauge wires from the Fuse Panel through the trunk grommet to the fuel pumps.
I had a custom Fuse Panel made to fit inside the Glovebox. This fuse panel powers all my Autometer Gauges, Methanol Injection, Kenne Bell Ignition, Autometer LED Dimmer, Autometer RPM Module for my Shift Light, and my AudioControl Line Driver. It also has empty spots for future needs.
It has 3 Relays. 2 of them are for Switched 12V Ignition and 1 is for Accessory.(Key turned all the way back)
It is powered by a 4 Gauge lead coming from the battery. MAX Amps is 100. It also has its own ground lug as well.
Here is a pic of the Custom Glove Box Fuse Panel
Here is a LED Voltage Gauge Mod I just finished. Turned out awesome!
Link to full write-up...
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/sn95-cobras-24/878312-sn95-clock-voltage-gauge-mod-pics.html
I purchased a few LED Voltage Indicators from eBay. They came in a few different colors. I ended up using the Blue one
Here is the OEM Housing and Clock removed. It is held on by a few Torx screws.
I then took the back portion of clock apart and used a dremel to remove the OEM LED Clock and cut the ribbon cable attached to it.
Fully installed ready to bolt into the housing.
Stock OEM Clock for comparison
Couldnt be happier with how it came out. It looks and fits great! It's bright and perfectly centered too.
Mounted to Dashboard and wired up. My LED indicator is measuring the voltage directly from the battery. I have a 4 Gauge lead coming from the battery to a custom fuse panel in my glovebox.
Had these Terminals Custom made from a guy named Anthony. He also is known by the name "ToolMaker". He is pretty popular if you do a search. His work is nothing but amazing. Everything fit perfect and the CNC work was flawless. These terminals took 1.5 months to make. The guy was extremely busy with other projects but I wasn't in a hurry. The cost was $90 for both, which was suprisingly cheap. They were all his design but I told him exactly what I wanted and he nailed it.
The POSITIVE Terminal:
0 AWG - JL Audio Fuseblock
0 AWG - JL Audio Dist. Block (100A -Custom FP in Glove Box)(30amp Fuel Pump FP)
0 AWG - OEM Fuse Panel
4 AWG -Alterrnator Lead
10 AWG -Battery Tender
The NEGATIVE Terminal:
0 AWG - Chassis Ground
4 AWG - Starter
4 AWG - Engine Block Ground
10 AWG - Battery Tender
I'm trying to keep everything in order but there are way too many pics to keep track of. I did my best.
New MB Quart Rear Speakers and Dynamat.
6x8 MB Quart speakers
OEM Mach 460 Deck removed
Rear speakers installed using JL Audio 16 AWG wire. (used Dynamat to secure wires to deck)
License plate Dynamat.
Removed tail lights to clean, install more Dynamat, and replace 12 year old bulbs
This is probably pointless but i have so much left over
Polished up tail lights, new bulbs and new hardware
Speed of Sound Pillar Pod, Autometer Steering Column Pod, Autometer Phantom Gauges, Blue LED Bulbs, and different color wiring for Positive/Negative, and sending units.
One of my favorite pieces: Custom Din slot Gauge/Switch Panel. Made by GaugePlates.com
I supplied the Aircraft Toggle Covers ($25 each) and switches. None of that Pep Boys, Performance Store crap. I then had them laser etched.
Speed of Sound Pod all ready to install.
Autometer RPM Module, Autometer Shift Light, Autometer LED Dimmer, Shift Light Extension Harness.
Autometer Shift Light and Dual Color LED mounted. (LED is for my ALKY Control Meth Injection)
The Mustang Glove Box is a joke. I decided to cut some of it off to mount the RPM Module and LED Dimmer. (LED Dimmer is for all Autometer Gauges)
Custom Fuse Panel that sits just inside the Glovebox. This panel was made by Tony at CE Auto Electric Supply - Home
This panel is Power and Ground for every aftermarket accesory in the car. It is fed by a 4AWG cable straight from the battery. 100 AMPS total. There are 3 relays: 1 is 12V Accesory (Key Turned Backwards) and the other 2 are 12V Ignition (Key Turned Forwards)
I have a few open circuits for anything else I want to run in the car at a later date.
Panel Installed. (The screws that hold the panel down haven't been tightened yet)(Sorry for the blurry pic)
Aeroforce Interceptor Scan Gauge (Purchased this to monitor my Air Charge Temp)(I wanted it next to my Methanol "Turn On" LED)
Matches nicely! Up above is a Raptor Warning Light (Red Cover) This is my Methanol Low Level LED light.
SOS Pod Mounted
I mounted my Methanol Injection Controler next to the Shifter with Industrial Velcro. I drilled a small hole in the center console, installed a rubber grommet and ran the cable cleanily.
My Cockpit
Very Happy with how everything came out
Bilstein HD Rear Shocks
Bilsteins installed. Gotta love my tailpipe/turndowns!
FIORE FireWall Adjuster and FireWall cleaned up.
Sorry about my crappy iPhone 5 pics. The Rear Seat Delete is finished in dark black carpet. It's the same color as the other OEM carpet. It's not grey like the pics depict.[/U]
Corbeau CR1's in Black Suede.
Corbeau Double Locking Sliders w/Stainless Hardware.
New Floor Mats.
Custom Rear Seat Delete by Keith at Welcome to K Dezines!
The Rear Seat Delete in its earlier stages.
I ended up using a Black Fleck Stone Paint (textured) on the amp cover instead of the satin powder-coated piece you see in the pic below.
JL Logo was done in brushed Aluminum with Stainless Allen Head Screws.
I also had the plexiglass drilled and countersunk to attach the amp cover pieces together. I then used stainless hardware to join the two.
Here are the amps without the plexi piece layed down. I also have Blue LED's around the plexi but I'm not happy how they look so i'm changing it.
Notice the LED Switch behind the driver seat on the front board.
Here are the LED's with the plexi off. I will add more pics of the kit lit up later.
SVT logo was CNC'd out of aluminum and Powder-coated Black. Bottom part of logo was brushed to match the JL logo on the plexiglass and to match the JL amps. Logo is also held in place with Stainless hardware.
Rear Seat Delete fully installed. It's very lightweight and weighs slightly more than the rear seats. On the inside of the kit directly behind the heat sinks of both JL amps are 3 high flow fans cooling them down. The fans are powered off a relay and come on with the amps.
The reason I went with Keith at Kdezines is... He has the only Rear Seat Delete with a flush back piece! Its by far the best looking kit I could find. If you check his website he sells these kits without the amp rack.
The kit comes with a cover to hide the amps if you don't want them seen.
Powder-coated Differential (Semi Gloss Black Hammer)
Welded, pinned, and straightened Axle Tubes.
Superior 31 Spline Axles with 3.5" ARP Studs
Eaton TrueTrac Locker
New Bearings and Axle Seals
ARP Main Bearing Cap Stud Kit
ARP Ring Bolts
OEM Pinnion Flange
New ABS Rings
3 Quarts 85/140 Lucas Gear Oil
LubeLocker Diff Gasket
Ford Racing 410 Gears
T/A Performance Girdle with Stainless Hardware
Everything was Professionally put together by a local shop.
I decided to powder-coat it Black Hammer Semi Gloss. It turned out great!
New Diff breather and a close up. Straightened and Welded the Axle tubes.
New Pinnion Flange.
I Grinded off the ugly Quad Shock Bracket for a smooth look.
Eaton TrueTrac and FRP 410 Gears installed.
ARP Main Cap Stud Kit
ARP Ring Bolts
Axles installed, Backing Plate installed, ABS Rings pressed on, Anti-Moan Brace Installed, and ARP Studs pressed in.
T/A Performance Girdle, Magnetic Drain Plug, LubeLocker Gasket, Stainless Hardware.
Maximum Motorsports Extreme Duty Adjustable Lower Control Arms with Torque Arm Springs.
Urethane Isolators and MM LCA Bolt Kit.
Maximum Motorsports Pinnion Snubber.
Differential, Bilstein Shocks, MM LCA's, Torque springs all installed.
I also used 2 cans of 3M Rubberized Undercoating underneathe.
PowerSlot Brake Rotors
Powder-coated Cobra Calipers and Brackets
Hawk HPS BRake Pads
J&M Stainless Rear Brake Lines with New Banjo Bolts/Washers
Stainless Speed Bleeders
New Military Grade Socket Head Bolts for Brackets
OEM Brake Shields Powdercoated Silver with Stainless Hardware
Stainless Socket Head Bolts for ABS Sensors
Stainless Anti-Rattle clips
Centric Caliper Rebuild Kits
Duralast Brake Hardware Kit
Motorcraft Caliper Grease
New E-Brake Brackets and Powder-coated ABS Sensor Wire Holders.
Brake Sheilds and ABS Sensors installed.
Rotors and Brake Brackets installed.
I rebuilt both Calipers entirely, and getting ready to install them.
Calipers and Brake Lines Installed.
Maximum Motorsports PanHard Bar.
PanHard Bar Installed.
Weld Racing Weldstar RT in Black
BeadLock Upgrade
15X10 6.5" Backspace
Weld Open Ended Lugs
Without Beadlock.
With Beadlock.
Mickey Thompson Drag Radials in 325/50/15.
Tires Mounted and Balanced.
For those of you who are curious how big these tires are.
Here they are layed up against my civic.
Filled them bastards up with Nitrogen. Got these metal caps off eBay.
Mounted on the car.
Progressive ALKY Control Methanol Kit.
Kit can be purchased here- http://alkycontrol.com/
Julio from ALKY Control has been very helpful and customer Service is top notch!!
Here is the 4 Gallon Tank Setup....
Modified Pump, Low Level Float, Feed Line, Cap w/Stainless Hardware.
Everything is Brass to resist corrosion besides the Stainlesss Cap Hardware.
PAC Progressive controller, Turn On LED etc etc
MAP Sensor which is tied into my boost Gauge Vacuum Line under my dash.
Had my Fab guy make me a Tank mount. It's a bit overkill, but I love the design.
Here is a pic of all the mounts used to secure it to the trunk. I Powder-coated everything texture black. I had Keith from Welcome to K Dezines! make me a spare tire Mount Plate to bolt the Meth Tank Mount to. Keith makes these Trunk Plates normally for a Trunk mounted Battery or Nitrous Bottle.
Here is everything layed out. Keith also made me a custom false floor for a clean and flush look. The grey carpet matches the trunk interior perfectly. Stainless Hardware and aluminum rivets as well.
After attacking all the wiring up front, I ran the pump wires along the passenger side fender well and secured it with Adel clamps. The PAC Controller is mounted behind my radio.
I test fit the Tank and mocked it up in its Mount.
Spare Tire Mount Plate riveted to the trunk.
Methanol Tank Mount fastened to Spare Tire Mount Plate using Stainless Hardware.
Tank/Pump secured and Feed Line Mocked up. Wires are mostly hidden and zip tied off the trunk floor just in case of a leak.
I used male/female connnectors so I can easily unhook the Meth Tank and remove from the car if needed.
Breather/Vapor Line installed
Breather Line routed through trunk firewall and secured with zip ties underneath car.
I used a few Stainless Adel Clamps and a Grommet for the hole.
Breather Element at the end of the Breather/Vapor Line
False floor installed, and Trim Ring about to be put in. I have lots of room to work with if needed. The False Floor fits my trunk almost perfect. I give it a 9.5 out of 10
Trim Ring in place. Very happy with how clean it looks.
My Custom Meth/Amp Panel below my Radio. Real Aircraft covers and ON/OFF Toggle Switchs.
The Amp switch only shuts off my Sub amp. I had the Aircraft Covers Laser Etched for labeling purposes.
Panel made by Gaugeplates.com, your home for custom gauge and switch panels and custom emblems.
Aircraft covers can be purchased here- Pilot Supplies and Aircraft Parts from Aircraft Spruce
Methanol Injection Turned ON.
Meth Controller ON and attached to my dash next to my shifter for easy access.
When the "TEST" Button is depressed the Pump will turn on and the "Turn On LED" will glow RED. This button is only used so you know the system works...
I'm using a Raptor Warning light above my Cluster to let me know when my tank is empty. My car wont be drivable for awhile so no sense in filling my tank up yet, hence why the LED is lit. There is also a bi-color LED (Green/Red) on my steering Column Pod that illuminates RED when the "TEST" button is pressed and "GREEN" when the kit actually turns on while driving.
I positioned the "Turn On LED" next to my Aeroforce Interceptor Gauge so I can monitor my Intake Charge Temps. Once that "TEST" button is pushed my IAT's should drop.
Warning Lights can be purchased here- Shift Lights by Raptor Performance
Since i'm running 15" Wheels, I had to mod a few items to make sure they fit correctly.
From Left to Right.
OEM Banjo Bolts/Earls Banjo Bolts/Maximum Motorsports Banjo Bolts.
The Maximum Motorsport's bolts are way too short.
Here are the OEM bolts vs Earls.
Took my angle grinder and took some of the metal away where it was contacting the wheel. I had to grind the bolt and part of the brake line. I really hoped the Low Profile Earls's Banjo Bolts would of cleared, but it still rubbed. It sure beats grinding down the OEM Banjo Bolts though. :-/
It doesn't get any closer than this!!! The rubber cap on the bleed valve does rub though. I might have to do without them or find lower profile bleed screws.
Finally got a chance to bolt up the wheels after modding my Brake Lines and Banjo bolts.
Got my new License Plate!!
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