Pulley?

SilvaCobra03

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You guys all act as if the belt is glued to the cogs. Its not a ratchet set up.

1) the belt is rubber the engine is metal...the belt will give before the engine does
2) the belt isn't glued so it will slip if enough tension is provided (sharp pull and the belt will slip a notch or two or three then grab quicker) idea is that the belt won't keep slipping after the initial Jolt. Otherwise someone would glue the whole thing together and be like look: $1,000 for the Impossible-slip system by Honda or something retarded like that.
3) motoblue has been advertising the system for forever; they just released it AFTER TESTING... they tested it for a loooooong time to make sure they wouldn't be snapping your engine like ghetto-backyard cog systems.
4) You can buy the system, install it, then watch your motor/engine explode. You need to have your entire vehicle tuned for the boost increase. They sell a 16 psi and 18 psi system (crankshaft and SC pulley's are changed)... You'll need a chip, exhuast and an X-pipe if you don't have them (so engine can breathe), probably a good intake and you can't run that much boost w/o shorty headers unless you change the compression ratio but that would defeat the purpose of increasing boost. More boost means more air which means the engine needs to breathe freely. aftermarket spark plugs wouldn't hurt either.

then you get to stick it on a dyno w/ a good mechanic who can fine tune it and figure out if anything else is necessary. All said and done and the car should run at least 500HP. after a good $2,000 shelled out. ($850 is only a starting point)
 
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dougwg

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Originally posted by SilvaCobra03
1) the belt is rubber the engine is metal...the belt will give before the engine does
Kevlar COG BELT™
Why do people double keyway the crank shaft when installing a cog setup?

2) snip...Otherwise someone would glue the whole thing together and be like look: $1,000 for the Impossible-slip system by Honda or something retarded like that.
MOTOBLUE™ ZERO SLIP™ COG-BELT™ Blower Pulley System

after a good $2,000 shelled out. ($850 is only a starting point)
So for Zero slip... it costs $2000.00 and by getting rid of ALL SLIP you will get what?... about 5-10 hp more? :shrug:
 

jimh

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Originally posted by SilvaCobra03
You guys all act as if the belt is glued to the cogs. Its not a ratchet set up.

1) the belt is rubber the engine is metal...the belt will give before the engine does

Belt will give before the engine does, yes. Before the blower snout, sometimes but not usually.

They are not rubber belts. They are fiber reenforced just like any other belt. They will not jump cogs without damaging the belt or whatever the belt is driving. They are not designed for any slip, that's why they are used in the applications you see them in. That's why Jesel camshaft belt drives use cogged belts. Your cam better not slip! And belt drives on motor cycles (transmission to rear wheel), those belts do NOT slip or jump cogs. It will work fine for a show peice or a daily driver, but It WILL put a higher shock load on the system. God forbid the motor ever backfires through the intake even if the bypass is not disabled.

I'm not saying it's a bad product. It's more hype than help. On a race car it may not be a bad idea. But, they test all those giant ricer raer wings and cow catcher front spoilers too. Does that mean they neccessarily improve the performance of the car? They probably slow it down.
 
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505BB

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Originally posted by dougwg

Im sure it's a marketing gimmick saying Zero Slip, I bet you use some words that aren't 100% truthful to sell your products as well.
And RPM outlet isn't the only place to get a cog belt, you can find rubber cog belts other places
 

dougwg

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Originally posted by P_Lomez
snip...I bet you use some words that aren't 100% truthful to sell your products as well... snip

You sir are DEAD WRONG
 

SilvaCobra03

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Doug... read all my post buddy. Zero slip isn't necessary zero slip. Like I said, its not glued together, its a cog set up. the belt will still give and slip, its kevlar not metal or something rigid that won't give under tension. the idea is to eliminate unnecessary slipping.

Besides... you are still ignoring the fact that Motoblue has done A LOT of testing, they are a company with a pretty damn good reputation, I'm sure they don't want to :::: slip up:::. (ha ha couldn't resist)
 
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dougwg

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I did read all yours posts....

I think you should run out and buy the cog setup ;-):thumbsup:
 

505BB

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Originally posted by dougwg
You sir are DEAD WRONG

Well then that makes you the one company out of the other thousands that don't lie. You should be proud, but the rest do exaggerate to sell a product. A cog drive is almost like a gear but it will still slip, and belt can and will slip, those just have less chances of it. I suppose we will see down the road if the cog drive kits work out or not. Only time will tell. Who knows, maybe you will be right, maybe the pro-coggers will
 

Randall

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The definitive answer about limited belt slip is: Maybe.

My email to Magnuson.

"To Whom It May Concern:

I have a question regarding "belt slip" and the supercharger on a 2003 Mustang Cobra.

Is a certain amount of belt slip required for the longevity of the supercharger?

What I mean is, was the ribbed belt design used as a "safety" if you will as opposed to a Gilmer drive system?

Will an immediate acceleration or deceleration with a Gilmer drive system have any adverse effects on the supercharger either short or long term?

What would the effect be if the ribbed belt system was replaced with a Gilmer drive system?

Any information would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you."

The response.

"Certainly the serpentine belt along with the spring loaded tensioner has a cushioning effect but to say that it was designed to slip is a bit extreme.

The cog belt is definitely a direct drive application and under extreme conditions would be very hard on the supercharger components, i.e. rotor timing. Rapid acceleration can knock the rotors out of time.

I hope this has answered your questions."
 

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