Really Disappointed with Ford

[lsp408]

Just wondering, I came from 4th gen F-body LS1 car, and those motors are known for piston slap when motor is cold. some louder than others, but never post harm to the motor.

Then again, my 5.0 is garage kept, so it never sits outside, and I have not heard any ticking or slap noise.

 

[kleistang]

i think im on the dealership side on this one. if ford is looking for the fix all we can do is wait.

i do understand your frustration thought. but i think your are making to big of a deal about it. when a solutions is found ford would apply it to every car that has the symptoms.

when i got my 06 my fuel pump and rear end bearings were replaced due to tbs with no problem.

 

[steedafever]

ford does want happy buyers. especially with this comeback of the 5 liter. so they so want to fix it. hopfully they take pride in doing so. this is the best mustang ever built so far.

 

[FORD4U]

i think ford got it right on the engine, we all know the problems the 03/04 cobra has with the piston to wall clearance, so we complained when the motor had issues because of two tight a fit once warmed up and now they make adjustments for the 5.0 and we complain because its to loud while warming up lol people are funny

 

[OhIIICobra]

All my previous DOHC 4V Ford engines have been fairly noisy. Until a rod blows through the side of the block I'm satisfied it's normal ops on my 2011's too.

 

[cidsamuth]

Man, I love it when one wise guy gets witty with an OP that has genuine concerns, and then everyone else, desperate to defend their babies, starts piling on.

You people screaming at the OP about letting the car warm up before driving need to take a giant leap into the 21st century. The piston noise and transmission troubles he's talking about are not things you only get at -10 degrees and when you're gunning it right out of the driveway before the ignition chime stops.

The piston noise he's talking about appears between 2000 and 3000 RPMs at temperatures as high as 60 (in my experience). It takes a solid 15 minutes to go away.

The transmission "clunkiness" is a downright GRIND for many of us, and it takes a good 20 minutes or more to lighten up at 30 degrees.

In 2010, a $35k+ car should not need to warm up for 15+ minutes in order to operate somewhere close to normal. Should you gun it? Nope, but it shouldn't embarrass you, either.

If you're happy with your car, I'm happy for you. But the OP's concerns are legit.

 

[cidsamuth]

As for the wait and see on Ford's fixes, those with the engine ticking are still waiting 6 months later . . .

 

[Grant808]

Man, I love it when one wise guy gets witty with an OP that has genuine concerns, and then everyone else, desperate to defend their babies, starts piling on.

You people screaming at the OP about letting the car warm up before driving need to take a giant leap into the 21st century. The piston noise and transmission troubles he's talking about are not things you only get at -10 degrees and when you're gunning it right out of the driveway before the ignition chime stops.

The piston noise he's talking about appears between 2000 and 3000 RPMs at temperatures as high as 60 (in my experience). It takes a solid 15 minutes to go away.

The transmission "clunkiness" is a downright GRIND for many of us, and it takes a good 20 minutes or more to lighten up at 30 degrees.

In 2010, a $35k+ car should not need to warm up for 15+ minutes in order to operate somewhere close to normal. Should you gun it? Nope, but it shouldn't embarrass you, either.

If you're happy with your car, I'm happy for you. But the OP's concerns are legit.

That was my impression of what was happening in this thread...piling on. I'm not happy about the piston slap, and wouldn't say that I'm displeased with Ford..yet. But I'm very interested in seeing what the fix is, if one comes up at all. If it doesn't get worse, I'll probably live with it.

 

[Tob]

Dude...really....
I let it warm up for 5 minutes EVERY morning before I drive it...and I don't beat on the damn thing.....I'm disappointed with Ford because they tested 5 other 2011 GTs in the morning and none....I mean none of the other cars exhibited the same noises/ticking that mine did. I understand there are build variations...but jeez..come on. Don't assume I'm some snot nosed 19 year old that is enjoying the car my dad just got me. Im 35, I've had a 73 Mach 1, 91 LX 5.0, 2000 GT, 2005 GT, 2004 Cobra and now my 2011 GT....and I work hard for what I've got, I just want what I paid for...that's all. A car that runs like it's supposed to.

Dude...really...

You stated in your original post that both the engine and transmission are noisy/hard to shift until warm. Now you're implying that you let the car warm up for five minutes EVERY morning before the vehicle is driven. Putting the two together means that you are saying that even five minutes of warm up time is TOO MUCH TIME TO WAIT.

If you feel the car is louder than at least five other cars then back it up with tech. Decibel meters are cheap. Prove to the dealer that the engine exhibits NVH characteristics that aren't representative of the average new one. Otherwise your claim will likely fall on deaf ears.

Lastly, did the dealer run the other cars in the morning and let each one warm up for five minutes before you attempted to compare them as well? Were the ambient temperatures the same as when it happens to you?

 

[cidsamuth]

Dude...really...

You stated in your original post that both the engine and transmission are noisy/hard to shift until warm. Now you're implying that you let the car warm up for five minutes EVERY morning before the vehicle is driven. Putting the two together means that you are saying that even five minutes of warm up time is TOO MUCH TIME TO WAIT.

And, Dude, so what? I realize some folks have the time and inclination to let the car sit at idle for 5+ minutes, but the OP shouldn't have to with a brand new car in 2010. 15 seconds should be enough, then drive it lightly until it reaches full operating temperature. And, again, these two specific problems don't go away until long past the car reaching full operating temperature.

If you think this guy is just making this crap up, below are a couple of other threads on the engine noise. The grinding manual tranny is also well discussed, should you care to look it up.

2011 5.0L Mustang Rattle when car is cold - Ford Mustang Forums

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/2011-mustangs-354/735333-piston-noise-before-warmed-up.html

 

[5.0GTCS]

And, Dude, so what? I realize some folks have the time and inclination to let the car sit at idle for 5+ minutes, but the OP shouldn't have to with a brand new car in 2010. 15 seconds should be enough, then drive it lightly until it reaches full operating temperature. And, again, these two specific problems don't go away until long past the car reaching full operating temperature.

^^ Ain't that the truth... I had mine since October 7th and from day one the grind was there,Im nearing 4,000 km and yes it's still there and dreading the fact I have to deal with a tranny that I know is going to grind... Yeah I let her idle for a good 10 minutes,Im getting heat in the interior, not cold air and the temp gauge is well on its way to normal operating temp.
I never owned an auto transmission on any of my cars, they were ALL manual,other than my work trucks, and I can tell you I never had a tranny that grinds like this one does, especially slipping into 2nd,I tried petty much everything,clutch ALWAYS down to the floor for shifting,I tried rev matching/blipping the throttle,slower shifts, faster shifts, nothing helped, in some cases way after the trans temps are where they should be,I still get grinding... 2ns and 3rd are the real issue.
I read in the other threads about replacing the tranny oil, but I am not about to do there either, not on a brand new 2011 mustang with less than 4,000km on it... FORD needs to resolve this shit ASAP! To be honest with you, I also took mine in to the dealer, and they agree there is a bad grind going on, but they have nothing to fix it,yet!
This can't be doing any GOOD to the synchro's .... 4,000 km worth of grinding!
This is my first FORD, I did not cheap out,fully loaded,with tax in I spent $43,000 on a freakin car that balks and grinds in 2nd/3rd... how much fun is that?
Im seriously thinking Canadian arbitration where you literally make FORD buy you back out, Im not about to keep this car "as is"honestly guys I love this ride, Im just feeling that FORD should have resolved these issues before they presented this car for sale.
3rd day I had the car, Im driving my wife to the office and I get pulled over by a cop, she was nice enough to not write me up, but clearly I had no brake lights OR license plate lights/ lower rear light markers at all, that had to go back to the dealer for a module change, and the added hassle of driving to the cop station to show the officer the car was actually "repaired" I mean c'mon FORD, get your sh*t together already!

 

[200MPHCOBRA]

I have a hard time believing that pistons are rocking enough to cause slapping in their bores. One, because so many people are hearing it. Until someone pulls their pistons out and measures them with a micrometer and their cylinders with a dial bore gauge, and we see variations of >.0015 above recommended clearance, or that same difference between a quiet and noisy motor, I'm not buying piston slap. I would be willing to bet you have at best a .0005-.001 max spread between a "tight" and a "loose" motor off the line 99.5% of the time. I would bet its coming from somewhere else, like the valve train or the variable cam timing mechanism. Granted, short piston skirts will be more liable to "slap". But I don't see this tolerance spread happening on a modern assembly line, on NC machinery.

As for the trans, I would not have as much faith in Chinese quality control. Good luck with that.

And for the guys that have slap, and it does turn out to be piston clearance, look at the bright side, your car will probably be a little faster than a "tight" one.

And just as a note, I have owned a 2006 MGT since new, it got Royal Purple ATF in the man trans, and RP gear in the rear not long after purchase, and its worked better than new ever since, at 55k mi.

 

[Go Heels]

Dude...really...

You stated in your original post that both the engine and transmission are noisy/hard to shift until warm. Now you're implying that you let the car warm up for five minutes EVERY morning before the vehicle is driven. Putting the two together means that you are saying that even five minutes of warm up time is TOO MUCH TIME TO WAIT.

If you feel the car is louder than at least five other cars then back it up with tech. Decibel meters are cheap. Prove to the dealer that the engine exhibits NVH characteristics that aren't representative of the average new one. Otherwise your claim will likely fall on deaf ears.

Lastly, did the dealer run the other cars in the morning and let each one warm up for five minutes before you attempted to compare them as well? Were the ambient temperatures the same as when it happens to you?

I don't have to prove it to the Dealership...they test drove the other cars on the lot under the EXACT same conditions and none of the them exhibited the same ticking that mine did. A matter of fact they all thought I would be getting a new motor until Ford told them it was "normal"...now normal to me would mean all the new 5.0 GTs made them same noises when cold...not just mine.

 

[Go Heels]

And, Dude, so what? I realize some folks have the time and inclination to let the car sit at idle for 5+ minutes, but the OP shouldn't have to with a brand new car in 2010. 15 seconds should be enough, then drive it lightly until it reaches full operating temperature. And, again, these two specific problems don't go away until long past the car reaching full operating temperature.

^^ Ain't that the truth... I had mine since October 7th and from day one the grind was there,Im nearing 4,000 km and yes it's still there and dreading the fact I have to deal with a tranny that I know is going to grind... Yeah I let her idle for a good 10 minutes,Im getting heat in the interior, not cold air and the temp gauge is well on its way to normal operating temp.
I never owned an auto transmission on any of my cars, they were ALL manual,other than my work trucks, and I can tell you I never had a tranny that grinds like this one does, especially slipping into 2nd,I tried petty much everything,clutch ALWAYS down to the floor for shifting,I tried rev matching/blipping the throttle,slower shifts, faster shifts, nothing helped, in some cases way after the trans temps are where they should be,I still get grinding... 2ns and 3rd are the real issue.
I read in the other threads about replacing the tranny oil, but I am not about to do there either, not on a brand new 2011 mustang with less than 4,000km on it... FORD needs to resolve this shit ASAP! To be honest with you, I also took mine in to the dealer, and they agree there is a bad grind going on, but they have nothing to fix it,yet!
This can't be doing any GOOD to the synchro's .... 4,000 km worth of grinding!
This is my first FORD, I did not cheap out,fully loaded,with tax in I spent $43,000 on a freakin car that balks and grinds in 2nd/3rd... how much fun is that?
Im seriously thinking Canadian arbitration where you literally make FORD buy you back out, Im not about to keep this car "as is"honestly guys I love this ride, Im just feeling that FORD should have resolved these issues before they presented this car for sale.
3rd day I had the car, Im driving my wife to the office and I get pulled over by a cop, she was nice enough to not write me up, but clearly I had no brake lights OR license plate lights/ lower rear light markers at all, that had to go back to the dealer for a module change, and the added hassle of driving to the cop station to show the officer the car was actually "repaired" I mean c'mon FORD, get your sh*t together already!

I'm right there with you brother...I think they should have done a little more R&D before rushing this thing to market.

 

[Ry_Trapp0]

anyone else notice that we're talking about a brand new engine that has been on the market for a bit of time now? a 100% clean sheet design. and there hasn't been a single major problem with this engine at all. nothing. that's almost unheard of with a performance engine like this. and someone is disappointed in ford because there is some noise before the damn car is warmed up?! :nonono:

Man, I love it when one wise guy gets witty with an OP that has genuine concerns, and then everyone else, desperate to defend their babies, starts piling on.

the fact that someone posted before me is circumstantial, i would have made my post whether anyone else did or not. and i have no 'baby' in this game, just logic.

I have a hard time believing that pistons are rocking enough to cause slapping in their bores. One, because so many people are hearing it. Until someone pulls their pistons out and measures them with a micrometer and their cylinders with a dial bore gauge, and we see variations of >.0015 above recommended clearance, or that same difference between a quiet and noisy motor, I'm not buying piston slap. I would be willing to bet you have at best a .0005-.001 max spread between a "tight" and a "loose" motor off the line 99.5% of the time. I would bet its coming from somewhere else, like the valve train or the variable cam timing mechanism. Granted, short piston skirts will be more liable to "slap". But I don't see this tolerance spread happening on a modern assembly line, on NC machinery.

...which is operated by engine oil. hence, why the noise goes away when the car warms up. seems plausible to me(as does the piston slap). is it really that hard to accept that an engine might make a bit more noise when the oil is cold and thick??? the OP just wants ford to bend the laws of physics so that his car operates exactly the same, no matter what the viscosity of the oil is at the time.

 

[Go Heels]

...which is operated by engine oil. hence, why the noise goes away when the car warms up. seems plausible to me(as does the piston slap). is it really that hard to accept that an engine might make a bit more noise when the oil is cold and thick??? the OP just wants ford to bend the laws of physics so that his car operates exactly the same, no matter what the viscosity of the oil is at the time.[/QUOTE]

Bending the laws of physics?...this guy is funny. Look simpleton, all I want is for my car to run like the other cars I drove...and that the service manager drove....we cranked the other 5.0 GTs up on a cold morning...with the same warm up time as mine.....and none....again you listening...N O N E of them made the ticking sound mine did & does. And my car has the same oil in it as the others, & it was the same temp. outside, we drove them all with 1 1/2 hours of each other. It's alot easier for you to argue from your weak point of view without it being your $35K spent on the car.

 

[Tob]

normal to me would mean all the new 5.0 GTs made them same noises when cold...not just mine.

You're right. I'd be surprised if you somehow got an assembly line "anomaly" but I concede that it wouldn't be impossible. If after fluid verification, PCM scan, some wiggle testing, compression/leakdown test, and nothing shows up as being out of spec, would you still be disappointed?

 

[steedafever]

sounds like your saying your piston noise might be louder than some...:shrug: can you take a video during cold startup and one at warm idle...

 

[Fenixfire]

So he is dissappointed with Ford because?? Get over it, son! Every car does this including Toyotas, BMWs, Honduhs, etc, etc.

Do alittle research in the field of material science. It has nothing to do with Ford.

These are the best built mustangs Ford has made, EVER! Not only do they build the highest quality cars they have ever built, but they build some of the highest quality cars on the market, PERIOD!

And you're worried about alittle engine noise when its cold out and alittle harder shifting transmission...........you have owned 6 prior mustangs?

All I do is let my mach warm up for about 5 minutes on a cold morning before I drive it. After that, it drives nice and smooth. If I start it up on a cold day and just leave without letting it warm up then its abit firmer when I shift and its not as responsive. Its just fine after its warm though. No big deal.

I think you are just alittle too picky.

 

[cidsamuth]

For you guys who say there have been no major issues with this car and it's the "best" built Mustang ever, have you bothered to even do a Google search?

While I realize that it's anecdotal, a quick search will reveal MANY folks complaining of problems that Ford just has not fixed:

1. Engine ticking (both at idle and under load)
2. This alleged "piston slap"
3. Grinding and notchy gears
4. Multiple clutch issues
5. Hard/long starts
6. Shimmy at highway speeds

I might have missed some here. While you might not consider any of these major, all can be quite disturbing to someone who just paid $36k and would very easily affect resale value.

I don't fault Ford as much for the original problems as their apparent inability or unwillingness to fix them.