Repair CV joint on half-shaft for 2000 Cobra R

[tony cursio]

I am having problems with a slow right hand turn, I am noticing a "buckling" noise coming out of the right rear wheel. I have already changed the bearings in the knuckle and am still having problems. I have also talked for Ford, they were less than no help - does anyone know where to find a half shaft? Or support for this car? I'm really getting frustrated trying to find parts for this car, I can't believe that Ford doesn't offer any support, unless there's someplace else to check? HELP! :shrug:

 

[svtguy]

I am having problems with a slow right hand turn, I am noticing a "buckling" noise coming out of the right rear wheel. I have already changed the bearings in the knuckle and am still having problems. I have also talked for Ford, they were less than no help - does anyone know where to find a half shaft? Or support for this car? I'm really getting frustrated trying to find parts for this car, I can't believe that Ford doesn't offer any support, unless there's someplace else to check? HELP! :shrug:

It is my understanding that you can use an 03/04 cobra C.V. shaft as a replacement as long as you reuse the inner C.V. joint from the 00R.

Paul.

 

[b4409]

The question is, why are you making "slow" RH turns?

 

[ac427cobra]

The question is, why are you making "slow" RH turns?

Ha Ha Bruce. Not everyone drives their "R" like we do!! oke:

I would think any good CV joint shop could fix you up? It sounds like you want to buy a replacement halfshaft and Ford can't get you one? Or looks at you like this as soon as you say 2000 Cobra "R"? :dw: (get used to it!!)

Worst case scenario is replace that POS OEM posi diff carrier with a Torsen T2R and put some '03 axles in it? (I'm pretty sure that's not the answer you're looking for but it is an option? Although an expensive one?!!?)

Good Luck!!

:thumbsup: :coolman: :beer:

 

[Terry Moenich]

Does it do it all the time or only when cold...when you first drive it for the day? If it only does it when cold, then it's most likely the stupid diff they put in these cars. It's the clutches making noise/chattering.

 

[ShelbyGuy]

i have a pair of brandy new '03 axles from which i've removed the inner cv joint (to put on aftermarket axles)

if its your outer joint going ticky ticky tick i could sell you one on the cheap

 

[ac427cobra]

Does it do it all the time or only when cold...when you first drive it for the day? If it only does it when cold, then it's most likely the stupid diff they put in these cars. It's the clutches making noise/chattering.

Ah Ha!! Now that Terry mentioned that I bet THAT is what you're hearing?!?!

Try sticking a half a bottle of friction modifier in the diff and see what happens? I'll bet that's it!?!

:thumbsup: :coolman: :beer:

 

[tony cursio]

Thanks for all the help, I have checked with Ford and they say an '03 axle half-shaft will not work on an R...I would just like to replace the CV joint if at all possible but can't find the part number from Ford. The noise occurs after the car has been driven for about 4 - 5 miles and does not occur every single time I make a right hand turn.
And yes, I get the "look" when I say Cobra R: in fact I took it to an authorized SVT dealer and they turned me away because they couldn't get it on any of their racks, it's crazy. I talked to the SVT Cobra R guy from Ford (Mark) he doesn't know much about the car either; I asked him if he could at least get me the part number on the CV joint and he said there was no way he could find this out. I think all 300 of us should band together and file a class action suit against Ford for not having the parts to repair the car and no support (etc.), this is ridiculous! :fm:

 

[Terry Moenich]

Anyone at a dealer will not know anything about your car, you found that out. The 01 to 04 axle work. When I install a Torsen or Tru-Trac in a 00 R I use those axle they fit perfectly.

Mine makes a similar noise, I just drive it. These car make many noise other Mustangs don't

 

[ac427cobra]

Maybe it just needs to be broken in?!?! ;-)

Bring it up to the Northwood's event, I'll slap my magnetic numbers on it for you and run a session or two with it?!?! epper:

We'll see if we can get rid of that noise for you?!?! oke: No charge of course!!! :thumbsup:

 

[Whitehorse]

Been down this road

I've been down this road before at the last dealer I worked for. Had a guy out in CO with a 00R that cooked his diff with about 2300 miles on it. Even from the dealer end we went round and round with Ford for about 3 weeks. Even talked to SVT about it and no one really knew how to get any parts for it. Their fix was to install an entire 03 center section and axles. My parts guru spent a bunch of time researching this outside of the world of Ford and tracked down the whole history of the diff and who designed it and who they sold the design to and who they sold the design to and on and on...

It really is a big mess. I think the only official answer he ever got out of Ford was that one of the project engineers either past or present bought up all of the left over parts through one of his side race car companies but he could never get the company to call him back.

If you care to know and have the time PM me and I'll give you the number of the parts guy who did all of the research on it.

 

[Terry Moenich]

These G-rotor diffs are junk, throw it away and by a Tru-Trac or Torsen. It's not even worth the time to think about it!!

 

[b4409]

03 Cobra axles and a real diff is the solution to any problems out back. Once I got the car on track, it was obvious the OEM diff was toast. Terry supplied the tru-trac diff and my dealer had no problem working on the R - in fact it drew plenty of respect from the techs. Ford tried something new and it probably wasn't the best answer but I'll take the few bads for all the good development the R has any day - it's by far the best bang for the buck track day muscle car out there IMHO. :beer:

 

[Terry Moenich]

Saleen switched from Torsens to the G-rotor diff in 2000 also . Somebody sold somebody a bag of lies!

 

[Whitehorse]

Surprising thing is that they are supposedly OEM equip on a bunch of cars that you would never even think of.. Grand Cherokee transfer cases use them for there automatic 4x4, there was a list of about 4 or 5 cars he found that had them as OEM at one time- I think the Supra turbo was one but don't quote me on that I might be thinking of the torsen.

The theory behind them is good- when the axles turn at a different speed it turns a pump inside the carrier that builds fluid pressure and applys the clutch packs- when the wheels turn at the same speed again the pressure is bled off and the clutches unlock. Unfortunately though they seem to build huge amounts of heat and unless you are running a cooler (and some that do run a cooler) they end up burning out under moderate use.

He found a website from one of the companies involved with the design that had a bunch of info on the G-Rotor. The 00R comes with a single pump but they also make a dual pump version- Don't know if it is any stronger.

-Sean

 

[ac427cobra]

Sean:

There is a huge difference between the ways a Jeep Grand Cherokee is driven on the street and the way a 2000 "R" is driven on the track.

My G-disc was slipping pretty badly by the end of my first tracking season which was run mainly on street tires with a diff cooler. As a preventative measure I replaced the thing over the first Winter with a T2R and have hot had an issue with the rear end since.

:thumbsup: :coolman: :beer:

 

[Andy M]

Sean:

There is a huge difference between the ways a Jeep Grand Cherokee is driven on the street and the way a 2000 "R" is driven on the track.

My G-disc was slipping pretty badly by the end of my first tracking season which was run mainly on street tires with a diff cooler. As a preventative measure I replaced the thing over the first Winter with a T2R and have hot had an issue with the rear end since.

:thumbsup: :coolman: :beer:

Joe Johnson replaced his diff after his first season of track. The original trac-loc diff was toast, as he was running open track without a diff cooler and it basically melted the clutch packs. He installed his T2R at that time, and has literally run the CRAP out of his car since then with no more problems.

I replaced my diff two years ago and now have at least 3000 track miles on my Torsen, and have had ZERO issues with it. I change the fluid ( I use Royal Purple 75W140) about every 2-3 track events. I also have a cooler which I run at the track. The T2R is the real deal!! No more one wheel burns coming out of the turns!! It just hooks up!! Wonderful!!!!

 

[tony cursio]

T2r

Can you tell me more about the parts that are needed to do a complete rear end change over from a stock '00R to a T2R? I'd like to change the half shaft and hub (knuckle), and then the other parts that I should change when I have the rear end out of the car. Should I also install coil spring insulators? Maybe some of the noise I am having is because they did not install these insulators.

 

[ac427cobra]

Can you tell me more about the parts that are needed to do a complete rear end change over from a stock '00R to a T2R? I'd like to change the half shaft and hub (knuckle), and then the other parts that I should change when I have the rear end out of the car. Should I also install coil spring insulators? Maybe some of the noise I am having is because they did not install these insulators.

Tony:

The '00 "R" had unequal length axles because of the g-disc POS posi (only when it's brand new) traction. Replace the posi-traction carrier with a Torsen T2R and put '03 axles (both same length) in it and you're done. It won't be cheap but the job will be done right and you will never have to worry about the rear end ever again. There is another rear diff thread here where we discussed this before. Do a search, I'm sure it will come up?!?!

:thumbsup: :coolman: :beer:

 

[Andy M]

Tony,

To add to Bruce's comments above, you may have to shave a little off the ends of the new '03 axles and then get the spacers right to make it fit right. My installer had to shave a little off the ends of the new axles to ensure that the C clamps fit correctly to keep the axles from floating side to side. If they float a little, they will beat up your ABS sensors.

Do not be scared by this though, as enough of us here have done this mod to keep you out of trouble. There have to be at least 6-8 of us here who have done this.

Like Bruce said... it ain't gonna be cheap, but you will be really happy with the results and it will stand up over time and abuse. We have the experience to prove it!

Keep us posted and pls do not hesitate to ask questions.