Replacement Shifter Bushings for OEM Shifter
- Thread starter Van@RevanRacing
- Start date
What is the diameter of the link pins? A set of tappered pins might help with alignment and would probably work better than the allen wrench in a confined space.
Van@RevanRacing
Active Member
It doesn't work with the barton either.
Rehagen Racing Shim with Steeda Triax Shifter
Thought I would pass on my experience with the Rehagen Racing shim used with a Steeda Triax shifter.
Got my TR-6060, purchased from fellow SVTP member, in my 2008 Mustang GT. The plan was to use the Rehagen Racing aluminum shim with the Steeda triax shifter. I test fit the shim several times. I felt it was very slightly spreading the mount ear on the transmission when inserting the shifter. The shifter arm could be inserted without tools and the pin installed at this point. Since there will be some torqueing of the mount, I decided to spend 20 minutes removing a little material from the shim, to see if I could eliminate the ear visible moving when installing. Using my workbench and sandpaper, stock shim(s) measured .4965" & .4970"..., so used 100 grit to 220 grit to 3M fine to 3M superfine and reduced them to .4940" & .4950" respectively. The fit is still contact tight, but no visible spreading of the mount now.
Function wise, holy ****ing cow! It is like I have a 3rd gear heat seeking missile attached to my hand. I was so shocked at the ease and quality the first time I hit 3rd with passion, I literally let off the gas. 2nd is just as easy. The TR-6060 with the triax shifter and the Rahagen shim is a delight to use. It is weird shifting into third is so easy...I keep expecting to hit the damn 3650 rejection wall.
I am also using the Hurst shifter stick made for the triax. No vibration of shifter detected at idle or any gear so far.
So, initial impression of the Steeda triax shifter with the Rahagen Racing shim is sham wow good!
Thought I would pass on my experience with the Rehagen Racing shim used with a Steeda Triax shifter.
Got my TR-6060, purchased from fellow SVTP member, in my 2008 Mustang GT. The plan was to use the Rehagen Racing aluminum shim with the Steeda triax shifter. I test fit the shim several times. I felt it was very slightly spreading the mount ear on the transmission when inserting the shifter. The shifter arm could be inserted without tools and the pin installed at this point. Since there will be some torqueing of the mount, I decided to spend 20 minutes removing a little material from the shim, to see if I could eliminate the ear visible moving when installing. Using my workbench and sandpaper, stock shim(s) measured .4965" & .4970"..., so used 100 grit to 220 grit to 3M fine to 3M superfine and reduced them to .4940" & .4950" respectively. The fit is still contact tight, but no visible spreading of the mount now.
Function wise, holy ****ing cow! It is like I have a 3rd gear heat seeking missile attached to my hand. I was so shocked at the ease and quality the first time I hit 3rd with passion, I literally let off the gas. 2nd is just as easy. The TR-6060 with the triax shifter and the Rahagen shim is a delight to use. It is weird shifting into third is so easy...I keep expecting to hit the damn 3650 rejection wall.
I am also using the Hurst shifter stick made for the triax. No vibration of shifter detected at idle or any gear so far.
So, initial impression of the Steeda triax shifter with the Rahagen Racing shim is sham wow good!
Van@RevanRacing
Active Member
Good feedback. I partnered with Rehagen to offer the shifter bushings to the GT500 community here on SVTP. Many of my customers have reported similar findings as yours and it's interesting to see your feedback with a Steeda shifter. Congrats and happy shifting! Sounds like a great set up.
Steeda Triax is only one arm with their GT500/TR-6060 shifter.
That's odd. But hey, if it works....
And BTW, I just forwarded your post via a text to the gentleman that is responsible for manufacturing them. I think he rather enjoyed it. Who knows.....maybe he'll make them for aftermarket shifters as well in the future...
And BTW, I just forwarded your post via a text to the gentleman that is responsible for manufacturing them. I think he rather enjoyed it. Who knows.....maybe he'll make them for aftermarket shifters as well in the future...
Tob did an excellent write up on the installation. I thought I would add this PDF that has all the torque specs and the factory procedure. From the 2014 Mustang Service Manual.
View attachment 2013 GT500 Gear Shift Lever.pdf
View attachment 2013 GT500 Gear Shift Lever.pdf
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nice writeup. I just ordered mine yesterday. I will report back my findings after install. My dilemma is that I like the stock height of the shifter. I just want to be able to eliminate the 2nd gear grind issue and find 3rd gear everytime.
I never ever had a problem finding 3rd. with my car. What I think is that most of you are actually holding the shift knob and trying to guide it to 3rd while pushing up and that's where you could have a problem finding third. If you just push up as you shift and let the neutral spring in the shifter do its thing you will hit 3rd everytime.
The spring in the stock shifter to me is very strong (stronger than other stock shifters in other cars I've driven) so if you just let it work as designed 3rd should be no problem.
I have the solid bushings in my car already and got the KR rear bushing on its way to me from Van so after I add that part hopefully my 2nd gear grind at the track will be a thing of the past. I have the clutch line done also and Redline D4 ATF still to go in.
Tony
The spring in the stock shifter to me is very strong (stronger than other stock shifters in other cars I've driven) so if you just let it work as designed 3rd should be no problem.
I have the solid bushings in my car already and got the KR rear bushing on its way to me from Van so after I add that part hopefully my 2nd gear grind at the track will be a thing of the past. I have the clutch line done also and Redline D4 ATF still to go in.
Tony
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In case anyone isn't aware, there are no springs or "centering springs" in the factory shift mechanism. Some aftermarket shifters utilize them but the OEM unit does not. The pushback you feel in the handle is a result of the transmission internals alone. Here's a breakdown of a '13/'14 GT500 shifter pivot I've been studying...
http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...2-07-14-GT500-TR6060-OEM-shifter-improvements
Went to Buffalo yesterday to pick up my rear KR bushing. Will do the install tomorrow.
Question, both bushings have that threaded stud on it and the regular bushing has what looks like a washer on the threaded stud. What is the purpose of the threaded stud and washer??? Should I remove the washer and put it on the KR bushing before installing it???
I don't see a reason why the bushing has that stud on it.
Tony
Question, both bushings have that threaded stud on it and the regular bushing has what looks like a washer on the threaded stud. What is the purpose of the threaded stud and washer??? Should I remove the washer and put it on the KR bushing before installing it???
I don't see a reason why the bushing has that stud on it.
Tony
It is a machine screw that Ford specified for assembly line purposes only. When the bushing is slipped into place in its respective bracket, the screw (obviously) slips through a hole in the bracket. A two cent "push nut" is then slipped over the screw, and the bushing was slipped over the end of the shifter. So when an entire driveline "assembly" is in line ready to be mated with a chassis, Ford doesn't have to worry about the bushing somehow coming out of the bracket (and the bracket dropping to the floor) prior to it being brought up to the underside of the floorpan and tightened.
Note - there is a front and rear to the bushing. The front has a beveled "smile" which makes it easier to slip into place.
Front...
Back
Rear view when in position...
A shot of the screw...
On the assembly line, look closely at the end of the shifter. The bracket doesn't fall off of the bushing because of the screw shown above and the push nut that is slipped over the threads which retains the bracket on the assembly line up until it is bolted on. It is unnecessary. You can snip it off or work it out of the bushing and throw it away. Or put a nut on it if you prefer redundancy.
Note - there is a front and rear to the bushing. The front has a beveled "smile" which makes it easier to slip into place.
Front...
Back
Rear view when in position...
A shot of the screw...
On the assembly line, look closely at the end of the shifter. The bracket doesn't fall off of the bushing because of the screw shown above and the push nut that is slipped over the threads which retains the bracket on the assembly line up until it is bolted on. It is unnecessary. You can snip it off or work it out of the bushing and throw it away. Or put a nut on it if you prefer redundancy.
Thanks Tob for the explaination.......................love the pics.
The install will be happening shortly.
edit: bushing is installed....................did an oil change too while doing the bushing. Ready for Mosport Monday and in a month or so another grudge event on the dragstrip. Hope these fixes work I'm ready to dish out the pain this year after getting turfed last year because of the shift problem.
The install will be happening shortly.
edit: bushing is installed....................did an oil change too while doing the bushing. Ready for Mosport Monday and in a month or so another grudge event on the dragstrip. Hope these fixes work I'm ready to dish out the pain this year after getting turfed last year because of the shift problem.
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camposl69
New Member
I ran into a snag trying to remove the OEM shifter. When removing the 2 OEM shifter arms, it was very difficult to flip the pin clip up to unlock but I was able to get the passenger side off. However, a different story on the driver side...after finally unlocking the tab, the pin clip would not easily move up. After forcing the clip up, it would not slide out at all. It felt like it was loctited in! Tried moving the pin clip up and down to loosen (which was very difficult), tried spraying WD-40, tried disconnecting the linkage arm to get more play to wiggle the support arms, but nothing worked. Any advice or pointers would be greatly appreciated to get the driver side pin clip off. You're right, there is not much room in there, and my hands are all scraped up!
It's been a few years since I did this mod. Yes there isn't a lot of room there. I gave myself some working space by dropping the trans down slightly (remove the trans mount plate, use a jack to hold the trans down slightly as you work). Also there is a reverse solenoid (I think that's what it is or some other solenoid........can't remember if it's on the driver's side or pass side of the trans), removing that gives you a bit more room also.
If you got the tab unlocked on the driver's pin and it doesn't want to move up try a long thin flat blade screwdriver with a small hammer and give it a couple of light taps that should free it from whatever is holding it in place. If you have already removed the pass side shift arm I would put it back in place and partially insert the other pin part way while working on the driver's side. That would make it easier to get the other arm off once both pins are removed. (If you've already removed the pass side shifter arm before working on the driver's side you are actually loading up the arm preventing the pin from coming out after you unclipped the tab).
You'll enjoy putting them back in, I had a hell of a time. Search my username around the time of my previous posts I detailed how I got them back in (yes again the driver's side pin was a total bitch!!!!!)
Tony
edit: here's the post I was talking about when I did the bushing install:
https://www.svtperformance.com/forums/threads/started-rr-shifter-bushing-install.984634/
If you got the tab unlocked on the driver's pin and it doesn't want to move up try a long thin flat blade screwdriver with a small hammer and give it a couple of light taps that should free it from whatever is holding it in place. If you have already removed the pass side shift arm I would put it back in place and partially insert the other pin part way while working on the driver's side. That would make it easier to get the other arm off once both pins are removed. (If you've already removed the pass side shifter arm before working on the driver's side you are actually loading up the arm preventing the pin from coming out after you unclipped the tab).
You'll enjoy putting them back in, I had a hell of a time. Search my username around the time of my previous posts I detailed how I got them back in (yes again the driver's side pin was a total bitch!!!!!)
Tony
edit: here's the post I was talking about when I did the bushing install:
https://www.svtperformance.com/forums/threads/started-rr-shifter-bushing-install.984634/
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