Replacing Rear Axle Bearings

[LTZ MACH]

How hard is it to replace the rear axle bearings on the IRS? Does anyone have a how-to on this issue? I have one going bad and figured I would do them both at once. I have the Level 5 half-shafts. Does anyone recommend a particular bearing or are the Ford replacement ones ok? Thanks in advance for your help.

LT

 

[ShelbyGuy]

If your bearing is shot, the hub probably is too.

Have you tried simply retorquing the axle nut? Loose axle nut makes the bearing lose its preload so it feels like a bad bearing.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?t=313874

 

[black 10th vert]

I agree... The nuts can back off creating some "play" in the bearing. I know this from building dozens of IRS systems used for Factory 5 Cobra replicas (same components, just different shape outer knuckle). Try retorquing them first (250 ft-lbs, or so). If they do need replacing, you can not do them without a big hydraulic press, and a fixture to properly support the center of the knuckle so the arms don't get deformed. I've done some knuckles that needed 10 tons, or more pressure to get those bearings to pop free.

hope this helps,
Brian

 

[svt4cobra6]

I had all of this done under warranty, the hubs were actually ok though.

 

[LTZ MACH]

No, I have not tried retorquing them yet, but was going to definitely start with that. I am not sure I have a torque wrench that goes that high or a socket big enough, so I will have to track something down. Anyone know the size socket I need?

If I torque it down and the bearing is still good, I should notice the difference in the "loose" feel. If the bearing is bad, the "loose" feel should still be there, correct???

If the bearing is bad, am I just as well off carrying my knuckle in to a dealer and have them put a new ford bearing in for me? Is there a "better" bearing that I should get? Is this to be a reoccuring issue with the Level 5s???

Thanks for all of your help. I am new to IRS's and am trying to learn as much as I can. Anyone know where I can find an exploded view of the IRS???

LT

 

[black 10th vert]

Honestly, it's tough to get a torque wrench high enough to properly torque those. If you just use a big breaker bar with a section of pipe you will be fine. Unless you are superman, I doubt you could overtorque those nuts! Also the nuts are supposed to be a "1 time use", and you are supposed to replace them when they are disassembled, but I've had good luck reusing them with some locktite on the threads to retain them from loosening. If you do need them replaced, your plan to take the whole knuckle to the dealer is a good one, as they will have the correct tools for replacing the bearings. Usually the bearings will be sloppy when you first put it together until those nuts are properly torqued, because the inner races on the bearings are 2 piece and need the nut torque to sandwich them together with preload to remove the slop.

Brian

 

[LTZ MACH]

Thanks! Sounds like I need to check the torque first and then go from there.

LT

 

[LTZ MACH]

Well, the axle nut was definitely loose. I set the torque wrench at 200 and it was looser than that. I torque it all the way down to 240 and it feels a lot better. I checked the other side and it was at least 240. I am going to put the rim back on this weekend and see how it feels. Do you think I should go ahead an pull the knuckle off and look at the bearing? Should I just go ahead and replace the bearing or will I be ok? Opinions please!

LT

 

[ac427cobra]

Well, the axle nut was definitely loose. I set the torque wrench at 200 and it was looser than that. I torque it all the way down to 240 and it feels a lot better. I checked the other side and it was at least 240. I am going to put the rim back on this weekend and see how it feels. Do you think I should go ahead an pull the knuckle off and look at the bearing? Should I just go ahead and replace the bearing or will I be ok? Opinions please!

LT

It depends on how long you ran around with the nut loose? It also depends on how the play in the wheel feels after you tightened the nut.

That rear bearing is a pretty stout tapered roller bearing. Unlike the front hubs! :fart:

 

[LTZ MACH]

How long is the big ticket that I don't know. The bearings have less than 7000 miles total so that would be the max. I am going to put the rim on it this weekend and see how it feels by hand and go from there.

Thanks for the help. Any other opinions?

LT

 

[black 10th vert]

I would just run it as is for now, and if it's nisy, then you know it needs replacing. After driving for a week or so, recheck the torque, and spin the tire with the car jacked up to check the drag. Also, if you haven't already, you should either replace the nut, or at least locktite it, because they are a 1 time use according to Ford like I said earlier.

Brian

 

[Juruense]

I gotta check my torque this weekend I think I have a rear bearing issue

 

[LTZ MACH]

Thanks! I figured that if I pulled it out and replaced it I was going to put a new nut on as well, but for now, I may just back the nut off and add some locktite!

A few related questions:

If I remove the knuckle and have the bearing pressed out and then back in,

1) Do I have to have the rearend aligned?

2) What is a good price for pressing the hub and bearing out and then the new one and the hub pressed back in?

Thanks to all that are helping!!!

LT

 

[black 10th vert]

It won't alter your alignment, so your good there. I would think if you bring the knuckle, and the new bearing it shouldn't be more than $20-$25 to do the job. I do them all the time, and have dedicated fixtures to do them safely, but since I'm in MA, that doesn't help you, unfortunately.

 

[ac427cobra]

It won't alter your alignment, so your good there. I would think if you bring the knuckle, and the new bearing it shouldn't be more than $20-$25 to do the job. I do them all the time, and have dedicated fixtures to do them safely, but since I'm in MA, that doesn't help you, unfortunately.

Well, you are going to be removing the upper control arm from the upper knuckle mount which is where the rear camber adjustment is made. So if you don't know this needs to be marked before disassembly you will need to realign. Your toe should not change.

FWIW,


:thumbsup::coolman::beer:

 

[LTZ MACH]

Thanks guys! I was going to make sure that I mark everything before I remove them. The local dealerships want $65-75 to press the old out and the new in, but only $115 to do the whole job. I may just have them do the whole thing, but take them the parts!

LT