Retrofitting '13/'14 GT500 Bilstein Damp-Tronic's to any '07-'12 GT500

[Carl]

My parts showed up today. Front struts are complete with springs, upper mounts, and bolts. I am missing one nut on the lower strut bolt. Complete front sway bar with end links included. Rears have 1 missing upper isolator. Looks like the two parts I need are available so will get those ordered later.

 

[Tob]

Where did you get the struts? Takeoffs?

 

[Carl]

Takeoffs from a car damaged in shipping.

 

[Tob]

Did you get the connector for the rear shocks? If you did manage to get it can you post up a photo of it?

 

[wallie40]

TOB, I dont have a gt500, but amazing work and a well worth read. Thanks for sharing your info with the community.

-Paul

 

[Carl]

Did not get the connector. Did some research today at the dealership with a tech friend and parts department No repair pigtail available for this. Hard to believe they would replace the body harness if a connector had to be replaced. The upper isolator on the rear has a lip on the top of the nut that I'm guessing the power connector locks into. I think we're going to need to get this one from Bilstein. The fronts could be replaced with another available waterproof connector. I can come up with something that would work for the rears but would rather have the right connector.

 

[Tob]

TOB, I dont have a gt500, but amazing work and a well worth read. Thanks for sharing your info with the community.

-Paul

Thanks Paul. Much appreciated.

I think we're going to need to get this one from Bilstein. The fronts could be replaced with another available waterproof connector. I can come up with something that would work for the rears but would rather have the right connector.

Yup, yup, and yup. There has to be a way to source that tiny connector out back...

 

[Carl]

If you need the rear upper isolators for the shock's there were 3 available as of late afternoon. Now there are two.. I ordered one because I only have half of one on one shock.

 

[PRP]

Did not get the connector. Did some research today at the dealership with a tech friend and parts department No repair pigtail available for this. Hard to believe they would replace the body harness if a connector had to be replaced. The upper isolator on the rear has a lip on the top of the nut that I'm guessing the power connector locks into. I think we're going to need to get this one from Bilstein. The fronts could be replaced with another available waterproof connector. I can come up with something that would work for the rears but would rather have the right connector.

You guys aren't trying to connect to a existing harness/connector so ANY weather-pak connecter/s can be used.

And they're super easy to find.


Phill

 

[Carl]

Yeah that will work on the front but the rears need a specific connector to plug into the top of the shock.

 

[Tob]

He's right Phill. Go back and look at the photos I posted on the pins at the top of the rear shocks. They are tiny and reside in a circular recess with a locating notch.

 

[Carl]

Tob, did you get a replacement strut for the one with the cut wires?

 

[Tob]

Not yet. I got a price from Tousley and will gladly pay it. I figure that it'll take longer to acquire all the ancillary hardware so I'm really in no hurry.

I also have this hope or wish that I'll check on FRPP's website and find a complete kit available for sale. Then again, for four consecutive years, I hoped and wished that the Bills were going to win a Super Bowl.

 

[Carl]

Would be nice to see that on the FRPP website but somehow I don't think that's going to happen.. If I have time tomorrow I'm gonna make a few calls and see what I can turn up on the rear connectors. Might try a Porsche performance dealer since they sell/install Damptronic's. Probably the same connector for the rears..

 

[Tob]

Carl, I like the way you think. I wondered the same and searched for evidence that the shock plug/connector could be universal across the DampTronic line. What I didn't do what to use the phone to simply call and try to find out that way.

Good luck and please share your findings!

 

[Carl]

Using the phone is like writing checks or using stamps. I hardly ever do those things anymore.

 

[Tob]

A harsh reality (or is it?). I still try to do all three, but you're absolutely right.

 

[PRP]

He's right Phill. Go back and look at the photos I posted on the pins at the top of the rear shocks. They are tiny and reside in a circular recess with a locating notch.

Okay, I see that. I was thinking there was a harness, just like the rear.

Having said that, there HAS to be a connector available or will be soon. Otherwise if someone breaks one under warranty, the dealer would have to replace the entire harness.

EVERY manufacture I've ever seen shows the harness connectors at the very back of the parts manual. The plastic housing/connector AND the terminals. Are you on good terms with a parts man at a Ford Dealer? Just ask him (or do it yourself it s/he will let you) to go to the back cover and work inwards from there. Usually in the first couple of pages you see line drawing/pics of the connecotrs (they are NOT listed in the parts guide) and you pick/choose the one you want. And the same with the metal terminals.

I've seen it at GM dealers, Ford dealers, Harley-Davidson dealers, etc. etc. etc.

Either that or they sell a 'pigtail' harness about 6" long that you can cut/splice into the existing harness to replace a connector end. I mean, think about it. Someone throws something into their trunk and busts the shock connector off and the Ford dealer is going to get a complete wiring harness for the car? Under WARRANTY?

I don't THINK so!

They're available SOMEWHERE, you're just going to have to find a parts man willing to spend a little time and look for it/them.


Phill (former dealership Tech too)

 

[PRP]

Well hopefully I will have the voltage and current requirements in a few days and I can start working on a controller. Not too worried about the front connector but the rears might be a challenge.

After seeing the cut-away, it's a simple solenoid. A length of wires wound around a tube to create a solenoid winding.

System voltage is used on solenoids and relays in the electronic engine & emission control systems on a modern day vehicle. The PCM will just control the ground side so it doesn't burn a transistor out with over amperage (due to the voltage drop created with the resistance from the solenoid windings).

A simple toggle switch with a 12v power source will work unless you're hell bent on using the PCM to control it. Use the toggle to control power or ground, if the switch is rated for enough amperage. A resistance test of the winding will give you the information you need to determine amperage draw using ohms law (E=I*R).

Frankly I think people are complicating this by over-thinking it.

Run a fused 12v source to one terminal and a toggle switch between the other terminal and ground. Done.

Or run one terminal to ground and a switched (with a manual toggle sw.) 12v power source to the other. Done.

I'd use the first method myself.

EDIT: Power "OFF" will give you SPORT MODE, toggle the power "ON" to give you COMFORT MODE. It is as simple as that.


Phill

 

[Carl]

Phill,

Currently there is no repair pigtail available. I researched this last week with the parts guy and a master tech at the dealership. I agree at some point there will have to be as replacing the body harness would be crazy. The info that Tob found indicates very low power consumption. I have found a connector in my box of junk that will work and I will measure the resistance of the coil tomorrow. We don't know for sure what voltage is being supplied to the solenoid as it is supplied by the suspension control module which is in turn controlled by the PCM. It may be 12 volts but before I go applying any voltage I just want to be sure. These shocks are not cheap.