Rotors

[co3bra]

I'm looking to replace my stock rotors. Those of you that replaced them with aftermarket rotors, would you please post some pictures. My current preference is the Eradispeed Plus Two Piece. I'm aware of the issues with the drilled rotors but I don't plan on road racing.

Thanks guys

 

[CobraBob]

A friend of mine had a set of Wilwoods behind 2000 Cobra R chrome wheels. Awesome! I'll see if I can find a picture.

 

[CobraBob]

I don't have his pics any longer on my computer. Here are a couple of pics. One isn't a Mustang. Hope they help a bit. The last pic is a set of Brembos on a Mustang.

 

[co3bra]

Thanks CobraBob.

I guess I better look into those. They look really good.

Anyone else have additional brands and or pictures that they could share?

Thanks
scott

 

[T's Blk03]

Both our Cobras have the Brembo slotted and drilled rotors on them. They work good and were cheap from sportbrakes.com

http://www.sportbrakes.com/cart/product.php?productid=1&cat=1&page=1

 

[CobraBob]

I always liked the Brembos. I had a set of F-40 Brembos on the front of my '94 Z-28. Cost me $3,300. installed (Callaway Cars). Yeah, I know. That's a bit steep. This set isn't cheap, but having Callaway do it added some to the tab for sure. I was younger and more foolish then. LOL! The stopping power on those Brembos was unbelievable. Great setup for a road course car.

 

[BLK03SVT10TH]

Both our Cobras have the Brembo slotted and drilled rotors on them. They work good and were cheap from sportbrakes.com

http://www.sportbrakes.com/cart/product.php?productid=1&cat=1&page=1

I have the same Slotted/Drilled Brembos from SportBrakes.com, and have had no issues with them. Cost about 250.00 for all 4.

I also changed over to Hawk HPS Pads and later added Russell Braided Steel Brake Lines all the way around.

 

[03 DSG Snake]

What I don't get is why you see Porsche, Ferraris, etc with drilled rotors, even track versions of the 'stock' cars, yet they are bad for road racing. Surface material might be sacrificed, but if the rotors are treated right they should release more heat and get less fade? :shrug:

 

[Oh Three Cobra]

I just ordered the 2000 R Brembos for my cobra. The setup seams to be a great deal. They get real steap in price beyond that. Those Wilwoods go for around $1500 and I don't think they fit with the stock wheels. Also, I don't believe Wilwood uses dust seals so expect to rebuild them more often.

I believe its because those cars have the rotors manufactured with the holes cast in instead of drilled after the production process. Drilling creates stress in the metal which makes it more prone to crack.

I bought some rotors from www.gothamracing.com. I didn't see them listed online so I called. They have them for most any car.

 

[ShelbyGuy]

because bLiNG, y0! sells, even at that level. most of those cars spend their time being dusted and waxed. very few actually see the track, and yes their rotors crack like anyone elses. they just cost more.

if you check out whats in the paddock at the track, you'll find slots but no holes, and if its allowed, a carbon rather than cast iron rotor.

What I don't get is why you see Porsche, Ferraris, etc with drilled rotors, even track versions of the 'stock' cars, yet they are bad for road racing. Surface material might be sacrificed, but if the rotors are treated right they should release more heat and get less fade? :shrug:

 

[ShelbyGuy]

track rotors dont have holes.

 

[blk04cobra1]

Ive got the Eradispeed 2's and they look awesome...that's the first think people notice when looking at the car. I'll get some better pics of them this weekend.

 

[co3bra]

You guys are graet and thanks for the info. blk04cobra1, I'm looking forward to some pictures.

Thanks again guys.

scott

 

[CobraBob]

track rotors dont have holes.

Interesting fact. I honestly never knew that. Thanks!

 

[sbc.cobra]

I'm looking to replace my stock rotors. Those of you that replaced them with aftermarket rotors, would you please post some pictures. My current preference is the Eradispeed Plus Two Piece. I'm aware of the issues with the drilled rotors but I don't plan on road racing.

Thanks guys

thats what i have...here is one pic that i have...sorry it's not more clear. mine are slotted/drilled...i don't do any road racing, but they sure do bring the car down from 150mph w/ no problems at all.

 

[NyteByte]

How hard is it to change the rotors on the Cobra?

Do you just remove the caliper, and hub nut then pull them off? What about greasing the bearings?

What is the proper torque for the hub nut when re-installing?

Also, I hear rear brakes are a PITA.

I've done the brakes on Honda's and Toyota's before, but never a Cobra. I'm going to need to do them before I go back to the track this spring, and I'd like to get slotted rotors, better pads, and add some cooling ducts.

 

[predator]

How hard is it to change the rotors on the Cobra?

Do you just remove the caliper, and hub nut then pull them off? What about greasing the bearings?

What is the proper torque for the hub nut when re-installing?

Also, I hear rear brakes are a PITA.

I've done the brakes on Honda's and Toyota's before, but never a Cobra. I'm going to need to do them before I go back to the track this spring, and I'd like to get slotted rotors, better pads, and add some cooling ducts.

Not hard if you have any experience at all.

Caliper.. :thumbsup: .....hub nut.... :nonono: Don't need to touch it.

 

[T's Blk03]

The hardest part is turning the rear pistons back in. You can get a universal tool from your local autoparts store that goes on the end of a ratchet. The front pistons (2) can be pressed back in using a C-clamp and an old brake pad.

Otherwise, if you can change a tire and remove a couple of bolts, you can handle a brake job. The rotors just pull off once you get the caliper out of the way and break the stock retainers off of the studs.

 

[SpectorV]

i upgraded and decided to go slotted and drilled, knowing they were for show and not for go. They are fine, no cracks, but they develop a wobble over time (warping) and im sure the brand has something to do with it. I am going plan, maybe slotted, and thats it next go around.

 

[SnakeBit]

Sorry, but many times the rotors will not just pull off. The problem is that if it's been on the car for as little as 2 years, the rotor can rust to the hub. A BFH will help get it off, but if you're too squimish to hit it hard with a hammer, a large gear puller will work (pull the dust cap off and center the puller in the middle of the axle spindle).

Use some anti-sieze on the face between the rotor and the hub, especially around the center hole of the rotor.

If you are going in that much, I would also suggest flushing out your brake fluid and going to better braided brakelines up front (at the least). Your pedal feel will thank you for it.