Roush LED Mech Vac/Boost Gauge Install

[zachcrosen]

Im stuck on this as well...Have not found a good way to get power to the gauge.
I had it hooked up like above and it only works when the headlights are on.

So in the daytime Im left with a blank gauge.
Any other ideas? How does ROUSH perf hook it up form the factory?
All Im trying to do is get white day & Night. So I have left teh blue wire unhooked and wired the red/White wires together.

As far as the electrical goes, I ran the wires as follows:

1) black wire to the battery ground
2) blue and red wire twisted together and then ran to the small plug underneath the console for an automatic (I have the 6MT); this is the white wire with blue strip in a grey connector
3) white wire was not used

I found out that the red wire lights up the needle and the blue or white lights up the LEDs for the numbers; so I just tied them both together to have blue all the time. I figured I would have it blue all the time to match my Aeroforce.

wire yours like I mentioned above. Tie the white and red wires together and run them under the console and tie into the white/blue strip wire that would go to the shifter in the automatic. Either way, its there so go this route.
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[PRP]

I have the Ford Racing "Electronic" type of Vac/Boost gauge that uses a T-MAP sensor under the hood, then sends a signal to the gauge via wires rather than with a tube so I have been watching this thread with interest. My FRPP instructions tell me to connect to a switched 12v source that stays hot WHILE CRANKING but doesn't give me a specific location to take it from so I have a additional 'feature' to find in my wire harness. I DO like the "under the console" logic, using the Auto Trans plug which SHOULD be there regardless of it being a AT or MT (Mfgr.'s typically use one common "fits all" harness). I'm also looking for a good source to connect my gauge back lights up and frankly I'd be good with it only coming on with the headlights (since it is an analog gauge) but I want my back lighting to dim with the dash lights, not just come on.

I'm a (retired) professional Tech that specialized in Electronic Engine & Emission Controls and Electrical systems and *I'm* having a hell of a time trying to figure this mess out so don't feel bad fellas! My primary problem is that I don't have any factory service manuals (or equivalent) to use, and/or factory/dealership specialty tools. I'm afraid to probe the wrong circuit and burn out a module by overloading the CAN/module. Even without a full wiring diagram I know there is some sort of electronic control device in the headlight system because when I remove the center plug on the headlight switch, the headlights turn ON and my door alarm pings notifying me that the headlights are ON. With electronic controls, it's VERY easy to smoke a CAN/Module unless you use a noid type (high impedance) test light.

So be very careful guys, you can cause a LOT of issues ($$$) by probing the wrong wire with a high draw circuit.

A good friend sells All Data/Mitchel electronic manuals and I think that's *my* next stop, locating a good wiring diagram and going from there. In the meantime, I'm watching this thread and hoping someone figures it out so I can avoid any of my own mistakes. If I find the answer first, I'll post my results here as well.


TIA,
Phill

 

[Nocturnal'14]

As far as the electrical goes, I ran the wires as follows:

1) black wire to the battery ground
2) blue and red wire twisted together and then ran to the small plug underneath the console for an automatic (I have the 6MT); this is the white wire with blue strip in a grey connector
3) white wire was not used

I found out that the red wire lights up the needle and the blue or white lights up the LEDs for the numbers; so I just tied them both together to have blue all the time. I figured I would have it blue all the time to match my Aeroforce.

wire yours like I mentioned above. Tie the white and red wires together and run them under the console and tie into the white/blue strip wire that would go to the shifter in the automatic. Either way, its there so go this route.
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That worked.... got it hooked up this weekend.
but the boost gauge clicks at WOT and bounces around a lot...gonna call roush tomorrow to see whats up!?

 

[4rd Toys]

.............................
2) blue and red wire twisted together and then ran to the small plug underneath the console for an automatic (I have the 6MT); this is the white wire with blue strip in a grey connector
3) white wire was not used

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Dumb question- Where do you start to disassemble the shifter panel assemby?
I want to see if my 6-speed MANUAL has the same wire harness & wire color you mentioned [never know if my ride is different].........

I'm thinking at least connecting the "white" wire to the "auto" wire harness so it lights up white during the day.....maybe run the "red" as well....

 

[zachcrosen]

Dumb question- Where do you start to disassemble the shifter panel assemby?
I want to see if my 6-speed MANUAL has the same wire harness & wire color you mentioned [never know if my ride is different].........

I'm thinking at least connecting the "white" wire to the "auto" wire harness so it lights up white during the day.....maybe run the "red" as well....

First, you have to remove the shift knob. Then, just open the console cover and grab between the cup holder and the compartment and pull up. There are a few harnesses you have to unplug so dont pull too hard or high.

You have to run the red wire or the needle wont light up. I just tied them together behind the gauge and ran a single wire to the auto plug.