Rubbing after installing of lca relocation brackets and sway bar relo brackets

BMR Tech

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Sweet, I will keep an eye out for updates. Call me tomorrow.

Swapping to a smaller bar from a V-6, or older GT may be the ticket.....but I am sure we can figure this out, or hope so. This is something that I don't think I have ever heard about, honestly.
 

blackbeast12

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Folks have to remember that when manufacturers test their products for fitment they don't have every other part available to test them with, its a crap shoot with so many different parts available. Its a fact some parts don't work with others ...lets not start a vender war at the expense of solving this guys issue!
 

BMR Tech

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Folks have to remember that when manufacturers test their products for fitment they don't have every other part available to test them with, its a crap shoot with so many different parts available. Its a fact some parts don't work with others ...lets not start a vender war at the expense of solving this guys issue!

This is true, very true.

I get calls about 02 sensor placement on aftermarket H/X/Mid-Pipes....jamming the 02's into out Driveshaft loops....and the customers get angry at us because of this.

We know that we have a very large customer base, and most of our customers upgrade other items...so we try our best to make everything work.

This situation is a little odd though, he is experiencing the stock sway-bar contacting the stock LCA mounting brackets.
 

v8stang

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Sweet, I will keep an eye out for updates. Call me tomorrow.

Swapping to a smaller bar from a V-6, or older GT may be the ticket.....but I am sure we can figure this out, or hope so. This is something that I don't think I have ever heard about, honestly.


So after closer inspection, the driver side has about 1-2mm of clearance, and the passenger side is rubbing.


This first picture shows the passenger side. The camera is pointed up, with the right side of the picture being the front of the car.
(Yes the bottom bolt was installed backwards lol)

20130825_221037_zps62f7bc8d.jpg


Another shot. Bottome-right corner of picture is front of car.

20130825_220941_zpse7a4783d.jpg


This next one is the drivers side. The second picture shows a little spec of rubbing at one point.

20130825_220734_zpsd65dbbdc.jpg


20130825_220622_zps4644c9b4.jpg
 

WHITELINE

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A BMR customer buys our product, puts it on his car, and has a rubbing issue. YOU jump into the thread, and go straight to telling MY customer to modify/grind the bracket, OR use the WL product.

That message is comprehended as "BMR's brackets require grinding, WL's do not"



You could have easily posted something such as: "You may want to contact Kelly at BMR and see what he has to say. This can be tricky depending upon the brand of parts being chosen/mixed" and you could follow that up with something like "If Kelly says you have to grind, then I welcome you to try our parts, because we have not received this feedback yet"

I won't sit here and claim we have never had clearance issues with this particular combination of parts, but, it is not common with our current design brackets.

Please keep in mind that I am the only person at BMR that a Mustang owner talks to. Tech, sales, etc... I talk suspension ALL day long, every day. In doing so, there are always things that I pick up on, to use for repeat occurrences, like - for example; the last customer who had this issue, it was being caused by the PHR not being adjusted properly, as well as the end-link on the bar being bound up.. If he called you, you would have said "Grind it!" :bash: ?

All of that said, if the customer calls me Monday and it just doesn't clear due to the Sway Bar Relocation Brackets - maybe he will consider purchasing your product. I will do my best to resolve his situation and provide him with whatever help he needs to get it working properly.

Let's do each-other a favor. If a thread is about Whiteline specific product or problem/issue, and has no mention of BMR in it....then I will simply not post. Can you do the same? If not, I just ask that you tell the customer to call me before modifying the parts.

Thanks
Fair enough.... I do see your point and apologize for not allowing you opportunity to resolve your customers problem first. I definitely see your perspective and know how it feels like to be on the receiving end. I will respect your wishes and hope you return the favor to WHITELINE posts moving forward.
 

1Sick5oh

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So after closer inspection, the driver side has about 1-2mm of clearance, and the passenger side is rubbing.


This first picture shows the passenger side. The camera is pointed up, with the right side of the picture being the front of the car.
(Yes the bottom bolt was installed backwards lol)

20130825_221037_zps62f7bc8d.jpg


Another shot. Bottome-right corner of picture is front of car.

20130825_220941_zpse7a4783d.jpg


This next one is the drivers side. The second picture shows a little spec of rubbing at one point.

20130825_220734_zpsd65dbbdc.jpg


20130825_220622_zps4644c9b4.jpg


what was done to solve your problem? im dealing with the same situation today with little clearance on driver side and rubbing on passenger ..
 

Nuar

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Yeah, what the heck? Lol i started reading the thread in hopes to see how the problem was resolved and then it ends abruptly lol.
 

throthaduece85

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My heater hose cover over the sway bar didn't last. Actually ordered the stillen adjustable rear sway bar (ebay) which should yield alot more clearance. Im going through my rearend ghis weekend and will put this sway bar on while im at it. If I hadn't welded in my CHE pieces, I woulda taken them off for BMR ones....oh well
 

v8stang

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sorry guys, hadn't seen this..

I spoke to Kelly at BMR and we figured that since I have a Brembo car, the sway bar was larger in diameter...
Not sure how accurate that is, but I do know it stopped squeaking after a couple of weeks... Haven't been down under the rear ever since..
I have a feeling it down wore down until there was enough clearance lol
 

cold12pk

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I just installed the BMR swaybar relocation brackets for my new 15" Racestars and I am having the same issue as the op. Swaybar is hitting the stock bracket on each side. I have already did some grinding on the bracket and bar without much improvement. Has anyone tried bending the swaybar a little outward toward the wheels?
 

auto02

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Damnit, I run into this same problem today.... Someone hurry and bend the bar, I'm guessing it'll be hell without heating it...
 

auto02

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I don't see there being an issue with tweaking the bar a little for the straight line crowd,maybe for the PRO's on here running at the Ring, lol!
 

twistedneck

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Bars have a tolerance of 6mm for location and that's both sides independent of each other, then you add on bracket tolerances, bar diamter tolerance, sliding over in the bushings, and mixing vendors and tack the larger diamter 25mm boss or 26mm laguna stabar on the car and presto- a clearance issue. stock is 24mm. there is not a ton of load back there so I would not be worried about clearancing anything including the bar arms or ends if need be just a little - there is almost no stress in from the arm to the tip of the bar - stay away from grinding anywhere near the main elbow bend in the bar.

good luck 'bending' the bar, at 40+ Rockwell it will just keep springing back unless you heat it, then it will lose its temper and strength - so do NOT heat it and bend it. a huge press is used in production to bend the arms in and out for best fit, and it takes practice. if grinding for clearance stay in the low stress areas- away from bolt holes, away from the stabar elbow bends..

i'm about to bolt these same brackets on so i'll let you know - I have a 25mm boss rear stabar also.
 
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cold12pk

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Bars have a tolerance of 6mm for location and that's both sides independent of each other, then you add on bracket tolerances, bar diamter tolerance, sliding over in the bushings, and mixing vendors and tack the larger diamter 25mm boss or 26mm laguna stabar on the car and presto- a clearance issue. stock is 24mm. there is not a ton of load back there so I would not be worried about clearancing anything including the bar arms or ends if need be just a little - there is almost no stress in from the arm to the tip of the bar - stay away from grinding anywhere near the main elbow bend in the bar.

good luck 'bending' the bar, at 40+ Rockwell it will just keep springing back unless you heat it, then it will lose its temper and strength - so do NOT heat it and bend it. a huge press is used in production to bend the arms in and out for best fit, and it takes practice. if grinding for clearance stay in the low stress areas- away from bolt holes, away from the stabar elbow bends..

i'm about to bolt these same brackets on so i'll let you know - I have a 25mm boss rear stabar also.

Thanks for the constructive feedback Twistedneck. Just what I needed! I have access to a press that will bend the bar but not much experience using it so I should probably forget about that option. Guess I will grind some more. May just have to look for a different bar.
Surprised that more folks have not had this problem.
 

auto02

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thanks for the constructive feedback twistedneck. Just what i needed! I have access to a press that will bend the bar but not much experience using it so i should probably forget about that option. Guess i will grind some more. May just have to look for a different bar.
Surprised that more folks have not had this problem.

x2!
 

auto02

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Well I put my bar back on today. Actually it only took very little grinding on the edge of the lower control arm mounting bracket and I mean very little, 1/8" at most at an angle and maybe 3/8's vertical. No grinding on bar itself.
 

Marc Gordon

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I wanted to dig this thread up, and share my experience last night installing ford racing relo brackets, lca's, and bmr springs for just the rear...

From all reading, I had done, although I didn't know there would be anissue, i went with ford racing thinking it would just fit. Anyway,The GT500 has a thicker sway bar, but the relo/lca brackets both state to be compatible with GT 500, anywhere you read on sites selling these,,

Anyhow it was close enough to be touching, my mechanic wasn't sure what to do, as we had ALREADY welded these on!! WTF lol. Was recommended to take sway off, or go to BMR's, however, after the welding it was just a huge PITA. Not smart on my part to ask to test fit first with bolts... I thought ford racing parts would just fit nice and be like stock.

We ended up deciding to grind down the stock ford racing brackets just a bit. Really disappointing that the info on sites sells these under GT500 aren't documenting or explaining fitment exceptions, and I was misled to think ford racing by default would be the best bracket since it's standard equipment on a boss mustang.

I'll post some pics later, but yea, we were able to take just a little off each side, hardly noticeable, no rubbing whatsoever. Going forward I won't ever be going with ford racing products. My UCA, and panhard bar are both BMR.
 
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