Ok so i just had a fully built engine put in my terminator... Drove it home and 2 hrs from home FRPS went out so i unplugged it and parked it at autozone overnight. Replaced it car ran perfect and drove home. Clutch got stiff on way home and after i got home the throwout bearing blew up so i got that replaced. Now the car is sitting in my garage because it has been running super rich. It starts fine. After it starts itll revv up to1300rpms and then slowly go down to 800 once it warms up. When i rev it car acts like there is a rev limiter at 3k rpms and when i give the accelerater gas the car stumbles, bucks, hesitates on me. Unplugged IAC car dies so assuming thats good. Checked for vacuum leaks couldnt find any. When i unplugged the MAF sensor nothing changes not even the idle its like the sensor doesnt do anything even when its plugged in. I replaced all ignition coils and that didnt change anything either. Another way to explain it is it sounds like 2 step when i revv it to 3k. Sometimes when i revv it, it will go to 2,500 then down to 300 rpms then rise to normal. When i revv it the car also makes a weird like back sucking noise from the intake. Any ideas on what the cause of this mess is? Im afraid to run the car with how bad the exhaust smells, its so rich it burns my nose when i smell it. Thanks!
Running terrible
- Thread starter Austin850
- Start date
The check engine light is not on. Ans yes the car was dyno tuned after the engine install. And by fully built i mean: 9.5:1 diamond forged pistons, forged h beam connecting rods, cleveite bearings, eagle forged crank, cammed, ported and polished heads. Still has stock eaton on it for now
Just fixed it. It was indeed the MAF Sensor. I had a crappy pro flo one in it calibrated for 39 lb injectors. Just put a stock 03 cobra maf sensor in it and runs like a dream. Now i have to rebuild the bushings on the lower crank pulley because it wobbles and squeaks until it warms up. What bushings do i use? Are they shock bushings or sway bar link bushings for a Jeep JK? Thanks
They dont sell them...I used basic rubber hose...my was destroyed good..I had to remove pins and make my own..
its not hard to do..I used wheel studs and threaded some steel rod as a post..costed under 20 bucks..
How did your "fully built" "dyno tuned" Cobra leave a shop with a MAF calibrated to 39# injectors??
Because thats what size injectors it has. Im staying with stock fuel system until i upgrade to a kenne belle. I was just saying Flow Pro MAF sensors are pieces of crap
I agree, sounds scary. A calibrated maf on a terminator sounds terrible.
Where do you buy the rubber hose at?
I would be really concerned about your tune. If you had an aftermarket maf and switched to a stock maf then tune more than likely the tune is off unless the aftermarket maf was just a stocker that someone put their brand on and charged you more for.
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Its fine. I made 528 rwhp on the dyno with a ported blower. It was a pro flow maf sensor that youre supposed to calibrate
Since the majority of tuning is adjusting the MAF XFR Function in the tune, which is MAF sensor specific, I think you are steering into danger swapping out the MAF Sensor without getting the tune looked at or at the very least doing some datalogging in Open Loop with Adaptive learning off with a wideband to check your idle, unloaded, loaded, and WOT AFR... the fact that it runs fine with the sotck MAF is a good sign, but does not mean you won't hurt the motor if you go WOT, especially with 9.5:1 CR.... if you don't, I think you risk hurting the motor... I'm a PRP guy, everything you have described concerns me with respect to the MAF sensor...
r/
Andy
I agree with everything you said. I'm a PRP guy as well.... OP- plugging in the stock MAF is not the solution. I would talk with your tuner and upgrade the MAF and retune the car on the dyno. Look into a slot style meter like the VMP3000 and your tuner will thank you for that. There easy to dial in and VMP gives you (or the tuner) a Maf X-fer function to start with.
As another PRP guy I see serious issues with what you're telling us, but "its fine." :rollseyes
Also, as a side note.... You mentioned your FRPS went bad. When that happens, you dump a ton of fuel in your oil so I hope you changed your oil right away and you're not still driving on it.
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