Rust like finish on TF wheels

03Snake04

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my wheels get a rust like finish on them after short drives.. i may only put 200 miles a month on this car.. and the wheels have less than 500 miles on them

everytime i go to clean the car i see this film on my wheels.. im assuming it is from the brake pads... what can i do to get this stuff off! i cant stand the thought of having to clean my wheels after every single short drive through the town.. that is just ridiculous and there is no way other people go through that much trouble

any tips on how to get this stuff off? right now im scrubbing with some wheel cleaner called blue magic

20121203_173832.jpg


20121203_173807.jpg
 

c6zhombre

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hmm...looks like the same stuff on the rotors....what pads are you using? I'm using hawk blue with factory calipers and only get normal brake dust on my ccw's. You need to tackle the source problem or you'll be facing this all the time. Brake lines good and tight? Don't believe its brake fluid, but I'd check everything

I'm assuming those TFs are polished bare aluminum and not chromed, right? You might try a new clean piece of paint clay like mothers and plenty of lube. Make sure it's clean and turn into itself frequently. Should get it off without harsh product like what you're using
 

w3bb3r04

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After you clean them really good and make sure they are they way you like it, put some sort of sealant or wax on there to protect the wheel, just like you would paint.
 

03Snake04

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hmm...looks like the same stuff on the rotors....what pads are you using? I'm using hawk blue with factory calipers and only get normal brake dust on my ccw's. You need to tackle the source problem or you'll be facing this all the time. Brake lines good and tight? Don't believe its brake fluid, but I'd check everything

I'm assuming those TFs are polished bare aluminum and not chromed, right? You might try a new clean piece of paint clay like mothers and plenty of lube. Make sure it's clean and turn into itself frequently. Should get it off without harsh product like what you're using

the car came with an aftermarket roush brake setup.. Roush Alcon 4 piston calipers, im not sure which pad he went with? but the face of these TF wheels are chrome, and the lips are polished ... the chrome is where the rusty look is building .. the polished lips dont have it, only water spots

After you clean them really good and make sure they are they way you like it, put some sort of sealant or wax on there to protect the wheel, just like you would paint.

any particular good brand?
 
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03Snake04

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i need to find out more about these calipers he put on so i can change the pads ... not my field of expertise either :shrug:
 

c6zhombre

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i need to find out more about these calipers he put on so i can change the pads ... not my field of expertise either :shrug:


not sure :shrug:

but I keep seeing those rotors and thinking those spots are the same stuff. that doesn't appear "normal". maybe try over in the terminator suspension section and maybe someone with roush caliper experience will chime in
 

c6zhombre

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and I forgot to add...but rust is normal...like after a wash or lots of rain driving. Just not like that! Those rotors look like they've had friction from the pad and been contacted...but yet those little spots still appear! I get rust on my rotors after a car wash, but they're perfectly cleaned after the first brake engagement....
 

Steve@TF

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hey cody,
be careful with what products you use to clean the wheels. some of those chemicals are very acidic and can damage the finish on the wheels. aluminum/chrome is very porous and stuff can get in without you knowing about it till it starts making the finish come off from underneath (chrome). if you can get the stuff off with some good wheel polished, then seal the wheels with some type of sealant or wax. that will create a nice invisible barrier to keep any of that stuff off. the Shine Seal prodct we carry also works for chrome for stuff like this.
 

T0RCH3D

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Well from the pictures above, it looks to be road or brake contaminants. More so from your aftermarket brake setup than your typical road dust/grime.

Anyways, I will go forth and list a procedure I would take if I were given your car to detail and clean the wheels properly and protect. Of course this may will not stop the depositing problem on your wheels but it will clean your wheels to perfection and leave you with a protected finish as well as easy wipe maintenance cleanings.

Products:
-Clean Microfiber Towels
-Wheel Cleaner of Choice
-Clay Bar of Choice
-Clay Lubricant of Choice
-CarPro Trix
-All Purpose Cleaner/Degreaser of Choice


Procedure:
1. Clean the wheels with your wheel cleaner of choice. Follow the dwell times and wipe with clean all purpose MF towel.
2. Use clay bar on wheels with lubricant.
3. Apply CarPro Trix to wheels. Follow labelled directions.
4. Clean wheels again with all purpose cleaner/degreaser.
5. Apply Collinite #845 to seal finish.

You can remove the wheels and clean/seal the barrels as well. Depending on the time and finish desired. Being that it is a chrome finish I couldn't recommend some of the better cleaners due to chance of harming your finish. Also between steps 4 and 5 your can apply a Chrome/Metal Polish to enhance the finish as well.

Hope this helps, good luck!
 

w3bb3r04

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I prefer Sonax Full Effect to clean. It's PH balanced and safe on all wheels. Then I use Rejex as a protectant on the wheels. It is known to last for 6 months to a year with normal driving. It acts as a wax for the wheels and prevents contaminants from sticking.
 

03Snake04

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and I forgot to add...but rust is normal...like after a wash or lots of rain driving. Just not like that! Those rotors look like they've had friction from the pad and been contacted...but yet those little spots still appear! I get rust on my rotors after a car wash, but they're perfectly cleaned after the first brake engagement....

if i were to drive the car the rotors would be spotless .. its only after they sit for a day or two they look like this .. humidity? southeast texas weather?
 

03Snake04

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Well from the pictures above, it looks to be road or brake contaminants. More so from your aftermarket brake setup than your typical road dust/grime.

Anyways, I will go forth and list a procedure I would take if I were given your car to detail and clean the wheels properly and protect. Of course this may will not stop the depositing problem on your wheels but it will clean your wheels to perfection and leave you with a protected finish as well as easy wipe maintenance cleanings.

Products:
-Clean Microfiber Towels
-Wheel Cleaner of Choice
-Clay Bar of Choice
-Clay Lubricant of Choice
-CarPro Trix
-All Purpose Cleaner/Degreaser of Choice


Procedure:
1. Clean the wheels with your wheel cleaner of choice. Follow the dwell times and wipe with clean all purpose MF towel.
2. Use clay bar on wheels with lubricant.
3. Apply CarPro Trix to wheels. Follow labelled directions.
4. Clean wheels again with all purpose cleaner/degreaser.
5. Apply Collinite #845 to seal finish.

You can remove the wheels and clean/seal the barrels as well. Depending on the time and finish desired. Being that it is a chrome finish I couldn't recommend some of the better cleaners due to chance of harming your finish. Also between steps 4 and 5 your can apply a Chrome/Metal Polish to enhance the finish as well.

Hope this helps, good luck!

thanks for those tips .. i use collonite for my paint, i didn't know anyone was using it as a finish for wheels!
 

Steve@TF

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Well from the pictures above, it looks to be road or brake contaminants. More so from your aftermarket brake setup than your typical road dust/grime.

Anyways, I will go forth and list a procedure I would take if I were given your car to detail and clean the wheels properly and protect. Of course this may will not stop the depositing problem on your wheels but it will clean your wheels to perfection and leave you with a protected finish as well as easy wipe maintenance cleanings.

Products:
-Clean Microfiber Towels
-Wheel Cleaner of Choice-Clay Bar of Choice
-Clay Lubricant of Choice
-CarPro Trix
-All Purpose Cleaner/Degreaser of Choice


Procedure:
1. Clean the wheels with your wheel cleaner of choice. Follow the dwell times and wipe with clean all purpose MF towel.
2. Use clay bar on wheels with lubricant.
3. Apply CarPro Trix to wheels. Follow labelled directions.
4. Clean wheels again with all purpose cleaner/degreaser.
5. Apply Collinite #845 to seal finish.

You can remove the wheels and clean/seal the barrels as well. Depending on the time and finish desired. Being that it is a chrome finish I couldn't recommend some of the better cleaners due to chance of harming your finish. Also between steps 4 and 5 your can apply a Chrome/Metal Polish to enhance the finish as well.

Hope this helps, good luck!

I prefer Sonax Full Effect to clean. It's PH balanced and safe on all wheels. Then I use Rejex as a protectant on the wheels. It is known to last for 6 months to a year with normal driving. It acts as a wax for the wheels and prevents contaminants from sticking.

there's the key. need to make sure the stuff is actually safe. ive seen meguiar's "safe for all wheels" cleaner eat right through vary finishes of wheels, including factory wheels.
 

03Snake04

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hey cody,
be careful with what products you use to clean the wheels. some of those chemicals are very acidic and can damage the finish on the wheels. aluminum/chrome is very porous and stuff can get in without you knowing about it till it starts making the finish come off from underneath (chrome). if you can get the stuff off with some good wheel polished, then seal the wheels with some type of sealant or wax. that will create a nice invisible barrier to keep any of that stuff off. the Shine Seal prodct we carry also works for chrome for stuff like this.

Steve, do you still have a discount with this company for the packages? i could give one of the smaller packages a try

i remember reading that you worked out a deal with them:read:
 

03Snake04

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ugh i dont wanna damage these wheels! :bash:

if i did my reading right... the previous owner put on roush/alcon 4 piston calipers on the stock 13" rotor ... its the same caliper that comes with the aftermarket 14" rotor kit... he just had special brackets made to keep the 13" rotor

so all i need is to find the better pads that fit the roush/alcon calipers for 99-04
 

Steve@TF

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Steve, do you still have a discount with this company for the packages? i could give one of the smaller packages a try

i remember reading that you worked out a deal with them:read:

i think i have one more. i need to order more kits. yes, i can save you about $30 on a kit :beer:

ugh i dont wanna damage these wheels! :bash:

if i did my reading right... the previous owner put on roush/alcon 4 piston calipers on the stock 13" rotor ... its the same caliper that comes with the aftermarket 14" rotor kit... he just had special brackets made to keep the 13" rotor

so all i need is to find the better pads that fit the roush/alcon calipers for 99-04

sounds like it.
 

T0RCH3D

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there's the key. need to make sure the stuff is actually safe. ive seen meguiar's "safe for all wheels" cleaner eat right through vary finishes of wheels, including factory wheels.

I allowed the OP to choose safe products for the wheels. I have my preferred cleaners that are neutral pH. But there are also cleaners that that are non acidic that can damage chrome finishes. A safe habit is to clean wheel with an all prupose cleaner prior to using any X brand wheel cleaner, even if the cleaner is non acidic or has a neutral pH.
 

c6zhombre

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if i were to drive the car the rotors would be spotless .. its only after they sit for a day or two they look like this .. humidity? southeast texas weather?

se texas weather is more humid than most - lol

but you are in luck! I washed the car tonight about 4 hours ago...keep in mind these are 100% bare alum ccw's never sealed. Only mirror polished twice a yr. Last time was 6 months ago. This is what I would think is just "rust". There are no deposits on the bare rim surface itself.

IMG_0918.JPG


I still say you have an underlying issue and its probably the pad material. Not exactly aluminum friendly i'm betting. There's no way you should be going through this every 200 miles, thats ridiculous even not sealed. Whats that 1 tank of gas?? :cryying: Of course sealing is probably a good idea...I just think you need to address this even further to eliminate it totally in the future :beer:
 

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