Self Tuning With SCT Pro Racer

03cobra#2

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Sounds like the throttle blade isn't open enough. Mine would sit at 50% to with how I used to set idle. Just remember to give it a second to settle after making the adjustment. It'll raise up then settle back down to commanded idle.

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After I got home from work I fired up live link and I noticed that I was not even logging isc duty cycle. Pretty sure I found the parameter so I can log it going forward. I turned the tb stop screw 1 turn in / open and readjusted the tps sensor to bring it back down to .99 volts. In sct I added 5% to the isc air flow neutral table. I can't fire up the car tonight the little one is sleeping. So tomorrow l'll warm up the car and make the final adjustment on the tb blade to get it to around 35% duty cycle. Hopefully that takes care of the surging idle and I can get back to dialing in my maf curve.
 

wkornf

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great info, I appreciate you being the trailblazer on this. I want to clean up my own tune but will greedily wait for you to fix and document everything!

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03cobra#2

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great info, I appreciate you being the trailblazer on this. I want to clean up my own tune but will greedily wait for you to fix and document everything!

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The info is out there. It's just all scattered all over the place. I'm definetly not a trailblazer on this but hopefully someone will find this info helpful. I'll be looking at datalogs after work today and a little more tuning tomorrow.
 

pwrshft99

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Off topic but.... I bought SCT Pro last year for my 2.3 turbo Ranger. Got comfortable with the software but have an issue I cannot resolve.

I see 11-11.5 to 1 at idle on my wide band no matter what changes I make. It eventually fuel fouls the oil. I must admit these are eBay cheapo 42# injectors, but the seem to work well throughout the rest of the powerband.

Any insight?? Is this a tune issue or do cheap injectors just suffer during idle conditions??
 

03cobra#2

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I'm no expert but I know cheapo injectors can be really though to tune with. You could try and do a drastic fuel change at idle just to see if you can get it to move at all.
 

03cobra#2

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So I have been advised to check for a vacuum leak by using a smoke test. Watched a couple of Youtube videos using a cigar and hand pump and it looks pretty easy. So I guess I'll be doing that tonight. This way if there is a leak somewhere I won't be chasing my tail.

I did use a unlit propane torch and also sprayed brake cleaner all over and there was no difference in idle but apparently that is not a solid method and the smoke test is the best.
 

01yellercobra

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If you had a vacuum leak the engine would keep running with the IAC unplugged even if the throttle blade is closed. I do think you're on the right track for setting your idle though.

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03cobra#2

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If you had a vacuum leak the engine would keep running with the IAC unplugged even if the throttle blade is closed. I do think you're on the right track for setting your idle though.

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That makes me feel much better. I didn't really think about that. So I purchased a cigar and a hand pump from Harbor Freight. I'm gonna fill the intake up with smoke tonight just to be on the safe side.
 

01yellercobra

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Off topic but.... I bought SCT Pro last year for my 2.3 turbo Ranger. Got comfortable with the software but have an issue I cannot resolve.

I see 11-11.5 to 1 at idle on my wide band no matter what changes I make. It eventually fuel fouls the oil. I must admit these are eBay cheapo 42# injectors, but the seem to work well throughout the rest of the powerband.

Any insight?? Is this a tune issue or do cheap injectors just suffer during idle conditions??
Is is it all cylinders or just one or two? Also are you 100% sure they're 42lbs? Might be worth picking up a set of injectors you're 100% sure about. Or borrow a set from a friend.
That makes me feel much better. I didn't really think about that. So I purchased a cigar and a hand pump from Harbor Freight. I'm gonna fill the intake up with smoke tonight just to be on the safe side.
My cousin used the smoke machine they use at Halloween to check his car.

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Blown38

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Off topic but.... I bought SCT Pro last year for my 2.3 turbo Ranger. Got comfortable with the software but have an issue I cannot resolve.

I see 11-11.5 to 1 at idle on my wide band no matter what changes I make. It eventually fuel fouls the oil. I must admit these are eBay cheapo 42# injectors, but the seem to work well throughout the rest of the powerband.

Any insight?? Is this a tune issue or do cheap injectors just suffer during idle conditions??

Set the min injector pulse width to 0 and see what happens.
 

03cobra#2

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I just got done with a smoke test. Used this video


Actually worked pretty well. I was able to throw duct take on the tb opening and pressurize the system. Did not see any leaks except a bit out of the duct tape at the tb opening. By the way the tape was puffing out I could tell it was pressuring. I used the vac hose that went to the frps. So I think I'm good with any vac leaks. Smoke test, and sprayed brake cleaner all over and no change in idle.

My vac at idle is around 10-12hg too. Pretty good for the cams I'm running.

Tomorrow I'll have a couple hours to play with the car. Hopefully I can get the idle stable, and start working my way up the maf curve.

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03cobra#2

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Small update. I adjusted the throttle blade to bring my isc duty in a better range....I think. Leaned the idle a bit more and now the idle is nice and stable. VAC at idle is better too at about 12-13in. Cold start is good, hot starts I needed to add fuel and it is better. I think that will be a work in progress. The car is now drive-able. I was able to get it to the gas station without it stalling and It drove ok....not perfect yet. Next up is to continue work on the maf curve and adjust little things here and there at part throttle to continue to get things dialed in.

I attaching a log. Can someone look at it to see if anything is seriously out of wack? In my driveway you'll see idle, and holding at various RPM's.

Edit: I also wanted to add that I tested the E85 today and I tested out at E80. Speedway gas station here in Cleveland.


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01yellercobra

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When I reached the point you're at I would usually hit the freeway and datalog the same RPM points. 1500, 2000, 2500, etc. I take it up to 3500 usually by switching which gear I was using so I'm not going to fast or to slow. Worked out pretty well and would only take a couple times to get it dialed in.

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03cobra#2

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When I reached the point you're at I would usually hit the freeway and datalog the same RPM points. 1500, 2000, 2500, etc. I take it up to 3500 usually by switching which gear I was using so I'm not going to fast or to slow. Worked out pretty well and would only take a couple times to get it dialed in.

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That's the next step. I'll drive the car around the neighborhood a couple more times then make the trip to my work. It's 30 miles almost all highway. Just want to make sure I'm good, and I would like to check closed loop operation before I make that trip.

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03cobra#2

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Has anyone logged their spark? I haven't changed any spark tables from lasotas base tune. Spark is like 20 at cold idle. Warm idle is around 15, and when I free rev and hold at say 2500rpm it's around 40.

Edit: my source says my logs look pretty good. I still have a lot of work to do on the maf curve though. He said it's time to put closed loop back on so I can fine tune trims and idle and to make sure there are no bank to bank problems.

God I hope I don't have big bank to bank discrepancies. Looks like I'll know how I did degreeing my cams and the moment of truth.
 
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01yellercobra

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I usually watch spark advance and spark source. I couldn't tell you actual numbers though. It's been a while since I've looked at that stuff. Plus I have stock cams.
 

03cobra#2

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Small update. I enabled closed loop and drove the car around. The maf curve needs a ton of work still. In a 10 min drive bank 1 ended up averaging .96 and bank 2 averaged 1.0. Looking at the graph there were split second differences of 15% or more but generally they were fairly close I guess. So I think I'm OK but I did send the logs to my tuner just to get his opinion.

Is the average what you look for when determining bank discrepancies? Or do you pick out the largest discrepancies in the graph to determine if you have a mechanical problem?

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01yellercobra

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I wonder how much of your issue is the cams? There could be reversion causing the issue. Plus you said the big differences were split seconds. Were those seconds when you were moving the throttle? Or were you at a steady RPM?
 

03cobra#2

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A little of both. A lot of the time they would be 1-2% difference, sometimes 10-15% different. And the overall average of the drive was bank 1 .96 and bank 2 1.0. Whick is 4% I think. I'm going to do some highway driving and dial things in more using my wideband to get me close then turn the 02's back on for final adjustment.
 
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03cobra#2

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Did some more datalog going today watching my stft's. At idle they are about 5-6% difference. In neutral holding rpms at 1500, 2000, and 2500 the difference widens topping out at about 13% difference between banks.

Getting on the highway and holding at various rpm's the stft's are much closer like 3-4%.

Thoughts?

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