sludge in valve covers

00rsvtl

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over the past couple of months i have been getting a heavy build up of some type of sludge in the valve covers.my oil seperator was alaways catching this but recently when i remove the oil filler cap all i can see of the valve cover is coated.i do not remember ever seing this before.the last time i changed my oil i used 10w-30 insted of the 5w30.could that be the cause? is this a "bad thing" any info would be appreciated. :shrug:
 

Scuba-Matt

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NO it states in the owners manual 5w-20 Premium Synthetic Blend. But sludge can be caused by not changing the oil when you are suppose to. Or the oil got to hot and broke down.
 

ITHAULS

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scuba-matt said:
NO it states in the owners manual 5w-20 Premium Synthetic Blend. But sludge can be caused by not changing the oil when you are suppose to. Or the oil got to hot and broke down.

I'll second that.
 

SVTFREEK

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scuba-matt said:
NO it states in the owners manual 5w-20 Premium Synthetic Blend. But sludge can be caused by not changing the oil when you are suppose to. Or the oil got to hot and broke down.
:thumbsup: I was told not to use synthetic either, that it can only cause problems in the long run, have you guys heard that one.
 

Ryan

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99/00 IIRC, are 5w30...then I b elieve 01/02ish Ford switched almost all their vehicles to 5w20 to meet some kind of governmetn standard.

Who's telling you guys not to use synthetic?? Theres nothing bad about it...there are potential issues if you wait til 80k or so with seals etc, but these usually do not surface.

As for the sludge, start changing your oil every 2k for the next 3 changes or so and it should help clean it up.
 

ITHAULS

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SVTFREEK said:
:thumbsup: I was told not to use synthetic either, that it can only cause problems in the long run, have you guys heard that one.

There's nothing wrong with synthetic at all. I was agreeing to the 5w/20 weight and the cause of sludge being most likely due to not changing the oil on time. I've been a believer of synthetics since the time when you had to know an Amsoil dealer to get it because they didn't sell it at the store. This is a whole other topic, but think of it like this....A synthetic diamond is crystal clear, every molecule is identical, there are no imperfections. (That's why a fake diamond looks like a piece of glass) Same with synthetic oil, every molecule is identical, no imperfections. It is absolutely better than conventional oil.
 

SVTFREEK

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ITHAULS said:
There's nothing wrong with synthetic at all. I was agreeing to the 5w/20 weight and the cause of sludge being most likely due to not changing the oil on time. I've been a believer of synthetics since the time when you had to know an Amsoil dealer to get it because they didn't sell it at the store. This is a whole other topic, but think of it like this....A synthetic diamond is crystal clear, every molecule is identical, there are no imperfections. (That's why a fake diamond looks like a piece of glass) Same with synthetic oil, every molecule is identical, no imperfections. It is absolutely better than conventional oil.
:thumbsup:
 

NorCalLightning

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SID297 said:
Do you make a lot of short trips without allowing the truck to fully watm up?

Bingo. I just saw the condition your talking about on a friends '69 Camaro last weekend. He keeps it parked and very rarely drives it. After tearing the engine down it had a milky whitish cream on the valve covers, etc. Supposedly, it won't hurt anything, just change the oil more often. You should be fine with a quality synthetic oil 10W30, 5W30, or 5W20 oil. I'm running 5W30 but can get away with 10W30 because of the climate in my area.

Steve
 

Scuba-Matt

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I do run synthetic in all my vehicles was just stating the recomended weight. On the 97 F-150 I use for work I have 195,000 on it (4.6 v8) and it stills runs like a top. And it uses about a quart every oil change 4,000 miles I change the oil in Lightning every 2,000 miles.
 

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