Smoking Issue on New Engine

SlipperySnake

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Get ready for a story book.

Alright so where to start... had the engine rebuilt local here in Houston and I've got maybe 10 miles or so on the motor. The motor smokes out the exhaust pretty heavily once the engine is warmed up (blueish tint, its oil). Under normal throttle and acceleration/full boost (7-10psi) it does not smoke. Come up to a stop light or pull into the driveway it eventually start smoking again within 30 seconds or less. To eliminate a few things from this conversation it is a twin turbo car and its not the turbos (no oil in intake piping, intake manifold, downpipes are dry and I have also ran the motor without the turbos to eliminate this and it still smokes at idle). It is not the PCV system as the car has two AN lines running to a vented catch can, no vacuum being pulled pre/post throttle body. A while back I took the intake manifold off and oil (approximately a teaspoon give or take) was on top of every intake valve except the cylinder on it's intake stroke obviously as it was opened. So I pulled the valve cover to inspect the valve stem seals on the passenger side since its obviously easiest and they seemed fine to me. Also head gasket was not blocking oil return ports down to pan as I thought maybe oil was building up inside the head area from this. I thought maybe it could be the rings but no way oil could end up on top of the intake valves other than bad valve stem seals or bad guides. In addition to that when I removed the turbos to remove them from the equation I saw oil accumulation at several ports of the exhaust flanges where they meet the head. I peaked inside the manifold itself and there is oil coming down from the exhaust ports. Just to eliminate the rings from the picture I did a cylinder leak down test at 100 PSI and there was 1% or less at every cylinder. I did a dry compression test also but I can't remember the numbers as its been some time I think they were like 160ish or so, motor is 9:1 CR. So I put it back together to just drive it some more making pulls to try seat the rings which I don't think it is personally especially after seeing the leak down test and it also feels strong with only 7 psi of boost. It's also on a Holley dominator, AFR is good, logs look great, it's not rich at idle or anything like that.

So fast forward to now as I have just lost motivation to work on the car as its been such a project for me and this is the second motor, first motor guy didn't know what he was doing. I don't drive it much as it's embarrassing with how much it smokes at idle to be honest. Good thing is I have just moved into a new house and now have a two post lift. I dropped the motor out the bottom two days ago. There is NO oil on the intake valves now although is still smokes as I had just driven it a few days before. I pulled both valve covers, nothing abnormal upon initial visual inspection. Next is to pull the timing cover and remove the cams so I can gets the springs off a few valves and feel for any play and the guide to valve stem. Also inspected the seals to see if there is anything going on. I bought new seals from Jordan at Modular Head Shop and at a minimum are going to swap those in if I don't find anything else. In my opinion its either the valve seals or the clearance is too loose at the guide and stem of the valve, which I really hope it is not as this motor is brand new. What was shocking to me was every valve had oil on it the first time I took the intake manifold off so I knew that the same issue was across the board, not just one cylinder, but now there is none it's clean as can be.

So at the end of the day I'm just here to see if anyone has been in this same situation before or shed any new light. Do I need to just drive it more? I've seen new motor before and they don't smoke like this at idle, it doesn't have stainless rings so I figured after some spirited driving and multiple pulls the rings would be set. Although since it only does it under vacuum (idling) it leads me to believe it is a head issue. I can search the internet for similar situations which there are plenty of them but no one has it with a brand new motor. I will update with any new findings in case anyone else ever has this issue. Anything I left out or any question feel free to ask!
 
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01yellercobra

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It sounds like valve issues to me. I saw some posts on here about not using the viton seals on these engines. I think Felpro was the go to.

But if the motor is out it might be worth pulling the heads and having them looked at just in case.
 

Blkkbgt

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It sounds like valve issues to me. I saw some posts on here about not using the viton seals on these engines. I think Felpro was the go to.

But if the motor is out it might be worth pulling the heads and having them looked at just in case.
This.

When you install the new valve guide seals hand check the valves when the springs are off. If they wobble you found your problem.
 

SlipperySnake

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This.

When you install the new valve guide seals hand check the valves when the springs are off. If they wobble you found your problem.
Ya that is the plan for sure. I've though the clearance there is maybe too much and its causing movement in the valve stem seal causing oil to get by. That would suck.

Just a thought,,

How did last engine blow,,

Build up in mufflers may take a bit to burn out.
Last motor is a story bro, I won't even go there lol. Washed the rings out in it due to stock pcm issues, has Holley dominator now. It isn't residual in the exhaust. Any of that would have burned off by now.
 

SlipperySnake

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I might also add that the first time when I had done the leak down and compression test I created a metal plate that goes over one intake runner port at a time with a threaded quick connect tapped into it and also drilled holes for the bolting locations at the head. Used the stock gasket and bolts to attach it to several intake ports. Pressurized them up with intake valves fully closed and sprayed oil over the valve stem seal/guide areas of each corresponding cylinder looking for bubbles. Nothing... That was shocking to me. Of course the stem seal was still in place, I would think if it was loose enough then air would have came through the tolerance there. Especially at 50-75 psig or whatever I had it at.
 

railroad

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Pressurized them up with intake valves fully closed and sprayed oil over the valve stem seal/guide areas of each corresponding cylinder looking for bubbles. Nothing...

Valve seats and faces would seal pressure from getting to stem and guide. Once the valve is unseated, stems can cant, allowing vacuum to pull oil??

Highest vacuum at idle, low rpm and low load, seem to be pulling oil.
Higher rpm and engine load, low vacuum.
I think diagnosis is right.
 

SlipperySnake

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Pressurized them up with intake valves fully closed and sprayed oil over the valve stem seal/guide areas of each corresponding cylinder looking for bubbles. Nothing...

Valve seats and faces would seal pressure from getting to stem and guide. Once the valve is unseated, stems can cant, allowing vacuum to pull oil??

Highest vacuum at idle, low rpm and low load, seem to be pulling oil.
Higher rpm and engine load, low vacuum.
I think diagnosis is right.
No the guide and stem would see pressure in this test. Imagine pressurizing the intake runner. That's pretty much what I did. I have a vacuum pump but didn't have the fittings to hook it up. Should probably do that. You'd think it work both ways though. Correct, smokes at idle with high vacuum and does not under load which is lowest vacuum, ambient pressure or boost. Compression rings/oil control ring it would smoke all the time.

Something else to bring up which I personally don't think is an issue is PCV system. I have both valve covers ran to a vented catch can. So any crankcase pressure is vented. Even at idle, take one of them off or the oil cap and there is zero pressure inside the crankcase. I've seen people run their setups like this with no issues, but any additional input or thoughts are appreciated at this point.
 

railroad

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I followed a bad oiling problem on a push rod 347. Compression and leak down showed good. New heads were reworked with no improvement.
Novice builder left the support spacers for the oil rings. Due to the wrist pin bore intersecting the oil ring groove, it required a flat support ring under the oil rings.
Your engine might have ring flutter, just a shot in the dark.
Still wondering about oil in the heads intake port above the valves.

Crank case pressure should not be so high at low speeds to be an issue.
Any change the high vacuum at idle/low speeds is pulling oil into the intake or ports?
 

SlipperySnake

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I followed a bad oiling problem on a push rod 347. Compression and leak down showed good. New heads were reworked with no improvement.
Novice builder left the support spacers for the oil rings. Due to the wrist pin bore intersecting the oil ring groove, it required a flat support ring under the oil rings.
Your engine might have ring flutter, just a shot in the dark.
Still wondering about oil in the heads intake port above the valves.

Crank case pressure should not be so high at low speeds to be an issue.
Any change the high vacuum at idle/low speeds is pulling oil into the intake or ports?
Oil control ring on these pistons does not intersect with the piston pin bore. Also ring flutter in my opinion would be related to sealing of the rings and they are sealing very well. Started another cylinder leak down last night didn't finish since Astros are in the world series, but i got 100psi in 99ish or so psi on cylinder side. I have to agree with the crank case pressure. With oil cap off there is no blow by or noticeable crank case pressure at idle, rings are sealing very well. So if there is no crankcase pressure I don't see how a PCV system at idle would serve for anything other than to scavenge the small amounts of blow by that are hardly noticeable in my case at idle.

Well ya vacuum at idle will do that in situations where the valve stem clearance of valve stem seals are bad, which is what I'm trying to figure out. But I put 50+ psi on the intake runner with intake valves closed and squirt oil all over that area with nothing. If there was an issue there you would see it in that test. 50 Psig is greater than intake manifold vacuum which at most would be measured as differential pressure at 14.7 Psia.

Me and my boss had a conversation just now about the PCV system again and he is set on the PCV system being the issue. I need a vacuum line running from the intake manifold or pre throttle body similar to any stock application. At idle the ambient pressure inside the crank case is being sucked into the combustion chamber via the back side of the rings, since it's creating a vacuum during the intake stroke. Pulling a vacuum on the crankcase would decrease the the differential pressure and prevent this. Regardless I'm still going to investigate the valve stem seals and probably change them just to eliminate that issue. I had the motor sitting for a while before ever even firing it up, like a year or so. Wondering if the seals could have loss their install lubrication or were never lubricated then when I started it up they were possibly damaged? Not sure on that idea but I'm thinking of some crazy shit at this point lol.
 

gimmie11s

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If you are certain it's a motor issue: Are you able to narrow it down to a cylinder/s that is/are smoking?

Easy stuff first, pull plugs and send a camera down looking for oil pooling on top of pistons after letting it idle for a while so it can build up.

All that said, my vote is it's NOT a motor issue, but a leaking seal on turbo/s.
 

SlipperySnake

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If you are certain it's a motor issue: Are you able to narrow it down to a cylinder/s that is/are smoking?

Easy stuff first, pull plugs and send a camera down looking for oil pooling on top of pistons after letting it idle for a while so it can build up.

All that said, my vote is it's NOT a motor issue, but a leaking seal on turbo/s.
It's not the turbo. Downpipe, turbine wheel and housing are bone dry. Cold side piping and intake manifold are also bone dry.

Motor is out of the car so I cannot run it anymore. All spark plugs exhibited oil on spark plug threads. I haven't had much time to look at it since I got it out honestly. I'm going to really look at it good this weekend.
 

SlipperySnake

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You don't have to run a PCV system. Think of all the cars that are running them without issue. Pressure and vacuum don't affect things the same way. I still think it's a valve seal/guide issue.
I'm 100% with you and I was trying to tell my boss this personally. There is no blow by whatsoever at idle, zero. I'm gonna tear into it this weekend get a better analysis on the heads. I'll keep you all updated. Keep the thoughts and situations coming.
 

cj428mach

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When my valve seals leaked the spark plugs would be clean immediately after shutting the car off. If you let it sit awhile they'd have fresh oil on them.
 

railroad

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So, NO PCV on the engine?,,,, just open, vented hoses off the valve/cam covers?
I would have changed the vent system, on a chance, low cost, just to see the results.
See you have the engine out?
Good luck, will be following.
If you have a vacuum line from the engine to the manifold, crank case pressure is not the only possibility of oiling and smoking.
The vacuum on the cam cover/valve cover, needs a splash guard and mesh to prevent raw oil spray or mist from engine vacuumed from that area.
Lotsa home made PCV systems encounter, sucking raw oil into the intake.
Just pulling the pcv valve out of the engine, would tell the tale.
 
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SlipperySnake

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I would have changed the vent system, on a chance, low cost, just to see the results.
See you have the engine out?
Good luck, will be following.
If you have a vacuum line from the engine to the manifold, crank case pressure is not the only possibility of oiling and smoking.
The vacuum on the cam cover/valve cover, needs a splash guard and mesh to prevent raw oil spray or mist from engine vacuumed from that area.
Lotsa home made PCV systems encounter, sucking raw oil into the intake.
Just pulling the pcv valve out of the engine, would tell the tale.
 

SlipperySnake

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So, NO PCV on the engine?,,,, just open, vented hoses off the valve/cam covers?
I would have changed the vent system, on a chance, low cost, just to see the results.
See you have the engine out?
Good luck, will be following.
If you have a vacuum line from the engine to the manifold, crank case pressure is not the only possibility of oiling and smoking.
The vacuum on the cam cover/valve cover, needs a splash guard and mesh to prevent raw oil spray or mist from engine vacuumed from that area.
Lotsa home made PCV systems encounter, sucking raw oil into the intake.
Just pulling the pcv valve out of the engine, would tell the tale.
Screwed up that last reply, not sure how to delete it. Anyway... No PCV correct. Ya I should have tried it prior to dropping the motor out but I personally don't think it would have made any difference. There are no vacuum lines connected to the crankcase where oil could enter the engine, this has already been determined if you read the original post.
 

SlipperySnake

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Update: Talked with Ron at Fox Lake and although he doesn't work on these heads anymore he highly recommended I speak with Kris Starnes. Got with Kris and sent some videos to him I had of the play in my valve stems while valves are closed. They're bad so I'm sending them off to Kris for full inspection, install new guides and new valve job also due to new guides. Kris and Ron are awesome. Highly recommend at least consulting something with Kris if you are looking into head work. Heard and read nothing but great things about him. Also Ron at Fox Lake charges to speak on the Phone (he didn't charge me as I was unaware of this before I even called, which was cool of him) but after speaking with him his experience and input alone would have been worth it. I was debating just throwing the motor back together with new valve stem seals and sending it again, but I got some good input from him that made me decide otherwise. I'll update once I get the heads back from Kris. Hopefully this will put this thing to rest and I can start enjoying my car.
 

Shadow Grey 03

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Update: Talked with Ron at Fox Lake and although he doesn't work on these heads anymore he highly recommended I speak with Kris Starnes. Got with Kris and sent some videos to him I had of the play in my valve stems while valves are closed. They're bad so I'm sending them off to Kris for full inspection, install new guides and new valve job also due to new guides. Kris and Ron are awesome. Highly recommend at least consulting something with Kris if you are looking into head work. Heard and read nothing but great things about him. Also Ron at Fox Lake charges to speak on the Phone (he didn't charge me as I was unaware of this before I even called, which was cool of him) but after speaking with him his experience and input alone would have been worth it. I was debating just throwing the motor back together with new valve stem seals and sending it again, but I got some good input from him that made me decide otherwise. I'll update once I get the heads back from Kris. Hopefully this will put this thing to rest and I can start enjoying my car.
Fox lake was an awesome shop. Nothing but good things have been said about them to me.
 

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