So frustrated

JPB

On jack stands
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Well, I've been trying to pull the lower pulley off and it is absolutely kicking my but. First, I didn't have a 14mm allen socket. No big deal, drive around and couldn't find one close. Went to Sears 30 minutes away only to find out they didn't sell one individually. I had to buy a set that cost $40.00. Anyway got that taken care, got home, hooked up my 1/2 Mac impact gun and proceeded to loosen the bolt (reverse thread of course). No dice, the pulley laughed at my impact gun. Thought I didn't have enough air pressure to make the gun try its hardest. Went and got my dad's compressor that supplies 30 more psi. Still wouldn't break it loose. Next I tried a 6ft cheater bar on my 1/2" drive breaker with my dad holding the engine with a crowbar (engines on an engine stand). I lifted him off the ground. Fixed that by chaining the crowbar to my huge Matco tool box and tried again. I couldn't lift the box up but then I bent the engine stand at the back where the 3/8" flat plate welds to the round cylinder that slides into the upright of the stand. I don't know what else to do.:shrug: My dad is concerned that we might've bent the crankshaft snout. I don't think we did as the engine stand is the weaker of the two. He took a small screw driver and placed it between the timing cover and the crank pulley while rotating the engine. The distance between the pulley and the timing cover varies a tiny bit. Are standard pulley 100% true?
 
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sc98cbra

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Try some PB blaster, WD-40.

Your going to need a crank pulley remover tool once you get the bolt off... Go rent this at autozone.
 

Aonebadbone

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i have not seen reverse threads on a damper pulley better check with a Ford mechanic to make sure you are going the right way.
 

Jomo1994z71

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do a search, there is a how-to on this under the terminator section...
Some people use a jack to get it off...good luck
 

D3 Racing

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I almost gave myself a hernia, my motor was still in the car, laying on my back had to press with both feet on my 1/2" breaker bar and it finally came loose, as METCO advised you will swear you broke something when it finally lets go.
 

heffs03mach1

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i went thru this ordeal then said **** it and took it to a shop and paid them to do it. i gave it hell and the damn thing wasnt budging i thought i was going to break something. the shop also told me they didnt think mine was going to come off cuz it was so hard to break lose.
 

JPB

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do a search, there is a how-to on this under the terminator section...
Some people use a jack to get it off...good luck

Thank you and that is great advice. Unfortunately, I have already researched that and used the jack method on the engine in the car with the car in 4th gear and the e brake on. The wheels of the car started spinning. The car actually started climbing the wheel chocks I had in front of the rear tires. I could've maybe gone to a lower gear but none of the write ups say to use anything lower than 4th. I do not know why but I don't want to break anything. Anyway, the method described in the how to cannot be followed on the engine out of the car as there is no transmission even on it to attempt to keep the crank from turning and the engine stand will flip over if a jack is used to push a breaker bar up.
 
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JPB

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I almost gave myself a hernia, my motor was still in the car, laying on my back had to press with both feet on my 1/2" breaker bar and it finally came loose, as METCO advised you will swear you broke something when it finally lets go.

Glad you didn't give yourself a hernia.
 

JPB

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i went thru this ordeal then said **** it and took it to a shop and paid them to do it. i gave it hell and the damn thing wasnt budging i thought i was going to break something. the shop also told me they didnt think mine was going to come off cuz it was so hard to break lose.

I know exactly how you feel. In fact that engine is on a stand so I did the same thing. I actually bent the engine mount plate on the engine stand.
 

JPB

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My new engine that I started this thread now is at a shop. I'll call them tomorrow to see if their 3/4" impact was able to get it off. Since I started this thread I tried to remove the pulley from the bad engine in the car using the jack method. As I stated above the car just started climbing the chocks in front of the wheels. My buddy has a 1" impact gun so I decided to go ahead and pull the engine and tranny. They are now sitting on the garage floor. I also have the 1" impact gun in my possession. I will attempt removal once again tomorrow after work. If that can't do it; I don't know what could.
 

mrose75

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Yeah, and that's exactly why I'll probably never swap my lower. I just had my hernia repair done yesterday and I got way too pissed at a mere broken wheel stud. My head would explode in rage if I tried to swapped the lower.
 

cbr repsol

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you are not getting it loose with a impact gun, its not strong enough. Breaker bar ,4-5 foot pole on breaker bar, car in gear, possible two people pulling on the bar, pulling on the bar from the (top) have someone hold the hood open fully if needed.Your not going to have enough power on your back side. Thats how i got mine loose, works everytime.
 

Terminator-Fox

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I feel the pain after reading this. Dont know if I'll ever swap lowers. What the hell were these lower pulley's torqued to from Ford?
 

JPB

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you are not getting it loose with a impact gun, its not strong enough. Breaker bar ,4-5 foot pole on breaker bar, car in gear, possible two people pulling on the bar, pulling on the bar from the (top) have someone hold the hood open fully if needed.Your not going to have enough power on your back side. Thats how i got mine loose, works everytime.

Haha. Please understand. One engine is on an engine stand. There is noting to keep the engine from turning. The other engine is in the car. The hood is off. I put it in 4th gear. I'm turning the wheels on the car through the drivetrain. The car is climbing up the wheel chocks.
 

prostkr

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When on a stand its easy as pie. I use my 3 foot long pry bar between two old flywheel bolts. put the bar between 2 of the engine mount points and pre load it a bit so it will sit still. use a breaker bar on the front pulley and pre load it till all the slack is out and its under good pressure. Then give the breaker bar a good whack with a 3# drilling hammer. There easy after you figure it out.
 

black 10th vert

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I am really surprised that no one has mentioned just whacking the spokes on the lower to shock it loose. I tried the conventional methods, and was afraid of snapping the allen off in the hub because I was twisting it with the torque I was applying to it. I then took a steel bar, or heavy walled pipe, and put it at 3 o'clock on the spoke, and gave it a few very solid whacks with a short handled sledge type hammer. Popped it loose with no problem! That was in the car, though, so you will need to secure your flywheel to prevent turning, of course. INMO shocking it loose is the only way to go!
 

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