I just changed my front brakes out today. Stang suspension Cross drilled/slotted rotors,and hawk pads. I did everything as instructed in the "how" to part of this forum,and "Bedded" the brakes in properly. But when coming to a stop,the steering wheel shakes ecessively. What would cause this?
Steering wheel shakes after brake change,cause??
- Thread starter Boostlag
- Start date
would they be warped from the factory then? Because I made sure I was careful on the bedding process not to warp them.
Sounds like warped rotors. Did the steering wheel shake before? I assume from your post that these were new rotors? You could have gotten a bad new rotor. Or, if the shake was there before, you could have loose tie rods, ball joints, or control arm bushings.
The shake was after. The only problem I had before was the old rotors made a lot of noise during and even not during the braking process. They had a "mirror" like glaze on them,and the pads were worn. So I replaced them,and now the steering wheel shakes.
what do you mean bearings??:shrug: I didnt see any bearings when doing the rotor swap.
I think he's referring to wheel bearings..
Are you sure the wheels are tight (torqued down)? Otherwise, sounds like warped rotors. Jack up the front end and pull/push on the wheels and see if you have movement
Explain how you bedded the brakes. I'm curious.
You shouldn't see any bearing during a brake change on a stang, they come with sealed bearings.
I know how to do it, infact I've writen articles on how it's done. I'm a brake specialist.
I'm curious to how HE did it himself.
the instructions are on the back of the hawk pad box.
6-10 stops with moderate braking pressure.
2-3 stops with hard braking pressure.
do not drag the brakes.
let brakes cool down for 15 minutes.
Duh on my part, forgot.
That's for the pads.
The rotors seasoning process is different. You cannot season brand new rotors with hard stops. What you did is heated the rotors up too much that their metallic composition did not get to set properly and as a result, you have created uneven spots on the rotors that did not achieve a gradual cooling process and throws the metal into thermal shock.
Metal expands when heated. If you do it too soon and too fast, some areas will not uniformly heat and contract.
I recommend driving the car normally for the first 2-3 days in order to season the rotors and for the internal oils to burn off properly which results in an even/uniform metallic setting.
gotcha. Well I havent done any super "hard" braking with these brakes,im still taking it easy on them because they are new. I usually engine brake 80% of where I drive anyway,thanks for the advice.:beer:
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