Stock Crank pulley bushings

[Dave.O]

https://www.svtperformance.com/forums/threads/terminator-crank-pulley-bushings.1050545/

so this happened to my 03, started chattering on start up. removed low supercharger crank pulley and bushings were totally gone. posts fairly deformed as well. 52K miles on car fyi

is the solution in attached link permanent? what part # for the sway bar bushings?

or should I just go to a metco lower? not really looking for more boost just a more robust repair to hopefully be permanent (eg not needing rebuild again in 50k miles)

 

[hotcobra03]

I had rebuilt mine a couple times..

it isn' made to come apart..

the main shafts ended up stripping on trial bar..

I went metco..not cheap but I was tired of removing that pita bolt..got good at it..

if you do try to repair stock..

the Allen is reverse thread in trI bar..

my post were also shot..I used wheel studs in place ..steel shaft threaded as new post..

which made them 7/8 thick..

I used rubber hose as bushing..

as a daily..some repairs lasted over 2 yrs..some weeks..

 

[Dave.O]

Is there anyone that makes an aftermarket caged lower?


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[cj428mach]

If you have the patience to read it all the way through there is about everything you could want to know on caged lowers in this thread.

https://www.svtperformance.com/foru...e-4lb-caged-lower-back-from-the-dead.1087017/

It covers disassembly, parts, bushing material. Its all in there if you care to read.

 

[Dave.O]

Holy crap.... this officially the longest thread I have ever seen...testament to the 03-04 following


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[cj428mach]

The first post lists what posts contain assembly/disassembly. I believe in the first page or 2 the replacement bearing part numbers are listed. Then somewhere towards the end page 25+ is probably where people discuss different bushing material. Best of luck.

 

[Dave.O]

Thanks for link. Based on your write up I was able to remove the tribar assembly from center post, but not with out a fight. had to heat the center to near red hot and break it loose with impact gun in reverse.
based on the amount of heat I needed to remove, I will assume the bearing is toast.
removal of bearing seems straight forward.
for the reinstallation of the bearing you mention a need to "re-stake" it in order to retain it. Is this necessary?
Wont the tribar hold it in place to the center shaft once the whole assembly is bolted back to the crank pulley via the large end of the center shaft?
thanks

 

[hotcobra03]

Thanks for link. Based on your write up I was able to remove the tribar assembly from center post, but not with out a fight. had to heat the center to near red hot and break it loose with impact gun in reverse.
based on the amount of heat I needed to remove, I will assume the bearing is toast.
removal of bearing seems straight forward.
for the reinstallation of the bearing you mention a need to "re-stake" it in order to retain it. Is this necessary?
Wont the tribar hold it in place to the center shaft once the whole assembly is bolted back to the crank pulley via the large end of the center shaft?
thanks

wonder if some silicone and a couple stakes would hold it enough.

thinking like you as when it'''s assembled it' harder for pulley to move .

I never did that bearing..

how bad are the threads now from heat?
that is where mine gave..it can be welded and rethreaded..I'm holding on to mine for this in future

 

[cj428mach]

Thanks for link. Based on your write up I was able to remove the tribar assembly from center post, but not with out a fight. had to heat the center to near red hot and break it loose with impact gun in reverse.
based on the amount of heat I needed to remove, I will assume the bearing is toast.
removal of bearing seems straight forward.
for the reinstallation of the bearing you mention a need to "re-stake" it in order to retain it. Is this necessary?
Wont the tribar hold it in place to the center shaft once the whole assembly is bolted back to the crank pulley via the large end of the center shaft?
thanks

If don't restake it, at the very least I'd use some Loctite on it. They have special Loctite for just that purpose. That's what I included in my 4lb pulley kits at the recommendation of my machine shop.

 

[MalcolmV8]

Restaking the bearing is so much easier than unstaking the original and getting it out. I see no reason to skip that step. It'll prevent the bearing from trying to walk and possibly rub where it shouldn't or doing who knows what.

 

[Dave.O]

I probably will now. Old bearing doesn't want to come out any way so I will take it to a machine shop to press out and reinstall new one


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[MalcolmV8]

I probably will now. Old bearing doesn't want to come out any way so I will take it to a machine shop to press out and reinstall new one

Did you remove the existing stakes? you have to take a small grinder, like a dremel or similar and grind off those "tabs" that are overlapping the bearing and holding it in.
I heat up the pulley to cause it to enlarge and then the bearing will press in / out very easily.

 

[Dave.O]

No but I probably should have. How do I restake after install? Google is giving me results that don't appear shade tree diy friendly


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[MalcolmV8]

No but I probably should have. How do I restake after install? Google is giving me results that don't appear shade tree diy friendly

OK then that's the problem. You won't get the bearing out with those tabs in place. They are like metal hooks or claws gripping it there securely. Once you've ground them off the bearing will come out.

When putting in the new bearing you can just take a big chisel and hammer in a few flat spots around the perimeter and that'll stake it back in place and prevent it coming out again. Two or three is all you really need.

 

[Dave.O]

Ok, finally got this repaired and installed.
I did have to take it machine shop to press off and reinstall. Even they said it was difficult to disassemble and press back on. Charged me $100, after I had 4 hours into it I gave up before I destroyed it using the BFM method

 

[MalcolmV8]

Ok, finally got this repaired and installed.
I did have to take it machine shop to press off and reinstall. Even they said it was difficult to disassemble and press back on. Charged me $100, after I had 4 hours into it I gave up before I destroyed it using the BFM method

$100 is not to horrible, at least its done.

 

[procharger]

I used block plug, light sanding on edges and a press.

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[MalcolmV8]

That's different. How's it been holding up?

 

[procharger]

That's different. How's it been holding up?

No issues, it's way stronger now.

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[cj428mach]

I used block plug, light sanding on edges and a press. View attachment 1464264View attachment 1464265View attachment 1464266View attachment 1464267View attachment 1464268View attachment 1464269View attachment 1464270View attachment 1464271View attachment 1464272View attachment 1464273

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Good information. Would you please add it to my 4lb lower thread? I can add it but since you have done it and are knowledgeable I'd appreciate you adding it.

https://www.svtperformance.com/foru...e-4lb-caged-lower-back-from-the-dead.1087017/